Azalea Crochet Batwing Sweater Pattern

The ultimate in coziness and comfort, the Azalea Crochet Batwing Sweater is a perfect transitional piece. Comfy enough to wear relaxing at home, yet stylish enough for out and about, this is one hard-working sweater! 

Scroll down for the free written pattern, or purchase the ad-free, print-friendly PDF here.

Where to Get This Pattern

What I Love About This Batwing Sweater

I LOVE how flattering this sweater is, for all shapes and sizes. The pattern is written for 9 sizes from XS – 5X and is designed for a relaxed fit at the bust thanks to the batwing sleeve design.

The sweater is constructed from 2 identical panels – so once you have made one it’s just a matter of rinse and repeat!

Special Stitches used in this pattern

My favorite part of this sweater is the braided puff stitch that runs the full width of the sleeves and neckline. The braided puff stitch is an eye-catching stitch pattern with a fabulous texture. In this tutorial I have separated each “braid” with 2 rows of hdc to add some drape to an otherwise dense stitch pattern. 

The pattern PDF includes a separate tutorial with step-by-step photos of how to work this braided puff stitch pattern, as well as a stitch diagram to help with stitch placement.

OK, Let’s Make This Crochet Batwing Sweater!

1. Gather Your Materials

Yarn

For this sweater, you will need a #3/DK/Light weight yarn. I used Rico Baby Classic DK in the colorway Azalea which is a super soft combo of acrylic and nylon. The amounts for each size are listed in the pattern below.

Some great alternatives include:

• Paintbox Yarns Baby DK (55% Nylon 45% Acrylic, 183 yds / 167m in 50g)
• King Cole Comfort Baby DK (60% Acrylic 40% Nylon, 339 yds / 310m in 100g)
• WeCrochet Gloss DK (70% Merino Wool, 30% Silk, 123 yds in 50g)

Hook

For my sweater I used 2 different hook sizes:

• For the main Body section, I used a 5mm (H-8) crochet hook. 
• For the Puff Section, I found my stitch gauge was a little looser than for the rest of the Body so I used a smaller 4mm (G-6) hook for this section.

You can choose whichever hooks enable you to meet the gauge for each section.

If you have more stitches than stated for the gauge swatch, you can try a smaller hook size. And if you have less stitches than the gauge in the pattern, you can try a larger hook size.

Other Supplies

You will also need a yarn needle to weave in those ends, and 2 stitch markers to mark the neckline.

2. Grab Your Pattern

Before you dive into this project, it’s always helpful to read through the pattern first. It gives you an overview of the steps and helps you understand the construction before you begin crocheting.

Batwing Sweater Sizing

This sweater is designed to be quite snug at the hips (with approx. 0-2.25″ / 0-5.5cm of positive ease), but loose at the bust thanks to the “batwing” sleeve design.

When deciding what size to make, measure your hips at the widest part. Use this measurement to select your size from the table below. (If you would like your sweater to be much looser on the hips, you may wish to select a larger size.)

The pattern also includes instructions for customizing the length of your sweater, as well as the sleeves and neckline. 

The sizes in this pattern are based on the body measurements as laid out by the Craft Yarn Council. Before you start, it is a good idea to go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).

3. Tips & Tricks for Success!

Construction

This sweater is crocheted in 2 identical panels for the front and back. Each panel is worked flat in rows from the bottom up, and then seamed at the shoulders.

The pattern PDF includes a full schematic with detailed measurements, as well as a step-by-step photo tutorial for the Puff Stitch section.

While most of the sweater is crocheted using basic stitches, there are some extra skills involved in increasing the width for the batwing sleeves, and in the braided puff stitch section along the neckline.

Blocking

As this sweater is made from two identical panels, I definitely recommend blocking to ensure that both panels are exactly the same size before seaming.

Assembly

When seaming your finished panels, I like to use the mattress stitch for a clean, almost invisible join.

For more details on different seaming methods, you might like to check out this video tutorial → How to Seam Crochet Garments.

Batwing Sweater Inspiration

I absolutely love the color choices of the talented crocheters who tested this pattern for me – if you are having a hard time selecting your yarn then these pictures should help you out!

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Crochet Batwing Sweater Video

You can find a full video tutorial for the sweater linked below – in the video I make the Small size so you will still need to consult the pattern if you are making a different size!

Azalea Batwing Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry or Etsy.

Pattern Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Skill Level

Intermediate

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• tch = turning chain
• st = stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sk = skip
• sp = space
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• yo-slst = yarn over slip stitch (see Special Stitches)
• puff = puff stitch (see Special Stitches)
• BLO = back loop only
• beg = beginning
• rem = remaining
• PM = place marker
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• Fig. = figure
• approx. = approximately

Construction

• This sweater consists of 2 identical panels for the front and back.
• Each panel is worked flat in rows from the bottom up, and then seamed at the shoulders.
• A sleeve trim is then added at each side, before seaming the sides (including the sleeves).

Sizing

• This sweater is designed with 0-2.25” / 0-5.5cm of positive ease at the hips, measured at the widest point. (The nature of the “batwing” shape at the sleeves means that the bust will naturally be quite loose – this is why the sizes are based on hip measurement).
• If you would like your sweater to be a little more oversized, you can consider sizing up. Please consult the finished measurements outlined above, and in the Sweater Schematic in the print-friendly PDF.
• The sizes in this pattern are based on the standard body measurements as laid out by the Craft Yarn Council.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).

General Pattern Notes

• Ch 1 at the start of a hdc row does not count as a st.
• Ch 3 at the start of a puff st row counts as 1 dc.
• Instructions are written for multiple sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
  • If an instruction does not apply for a particular size, then an “x” is used as a placeholder for that size: e.g. “Sizes x (x, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) only” indicates that the next instruction is not worked for sizes XS and S.
• The stitch count for each row is given in brackets [ ] at the end of the row.
• If no stitch count is given then the count is the same as the previous row.
• For puff st rows, the closing ch immediately after each puff does not count as a st.
• For the Puff Section, you may find that your stitch gauge is looser than for the rest of the Body – if this is the case, you can consider using a smaller hook for this section.

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Materials

Yarn

Any #3/DK/Light weight yarn will work great for this pattern.

The amounts given here are for Rico Baby Classic DK in Azalea (180yds/160m per 50g skein; Weight: #3/DK; 50% Acrylic, 50% Polyamide).

Size	Yarn Required
XS	1650 yds / 1510m
S	1750 yds / 1600m
M	1900 yds / 1737m
L	2000 yds / 1829m
XL	2050 yds / 1875m
2X	2150 yds / 1966m
3X	2250 yds / 2057m
4X	2350 yds / 2149m
5X	2400 yds / 2195m

Alternative yarn options:

• Paintbox Yarns Baby DK (55% Nylon 45% Acrylic)
• King Cole Comfort Baby DK (60% Acrylic 40% Nylon)
• WeCrochet Gloss DK (70% Merino Wool, 30% Silk)

Hook

5mm (H-8) crochet hook (or hook required to meet gauge).

Optional: 4mm (G-6) or 4.5mm (7) hook for Puff Section (see Notes).

Other Items

• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers (2)
• Scissors

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Gauge

Body: 15 sts x 12 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm measured over hdc (blocked).

Puff Section: 7 sts x 10 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm measured over Puff Section pattern.

Ribbing: 8 sts x 15 rows = 1.5″ x 4″ / 4 cm x 10 cm measured over yo-slst (see Special Stitches).

Note: for the ribbing, row gauge is more important than stitch gauge.

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Finished Measurements

Size	To fit hip circumference	Finished width at hips	Finished length
XS	33 – 34″ / 84 – 86.5cm	17″ / 43.5cm	20.5″ / 52cm
S	35 – 36″ / 89 – 91.5cm	18.25″ / 46cm	21.25″ / 54cm
M	38 – 40″ / 96.5 – 101.5cm	19.75″ / 50cm	22.5″ / 57.5cm
L	42 – 44″ / 106.5 – 112cm	21.75″ / 55.5cm	22.5″ / 57.5cm
XL	46 – 48″ / 117 – 122cm	24″ / 61cm	22.5″ / 57.5cm
2X	52 – 53″ / 132 – 134.5cm	26.75″ / 67.5cm	23.25″ / 59cm
3X	54 – 55″ / 137 – 139.5cm	27.75″ / 70.5cm	24″ / 60.5cm
4X	56 – 57″ / 142 – 145cm	28.25″ / 72cm	24.5″ / 62.5cm
5X	61 – 62″ / 155 – 157.5cm	31″ / 78.5cm	24.5″ / 62.5cm

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Special Stitches

Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yo-slst)

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Do NOT yarn over, continue to pull the bottom loop on hook through top 2 loops. (You may find it easier to rotate your hook away from you as you pull through).

Puff Stitch (puff)

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a long loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: [Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a long loop] 4 more times. [11 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 11 loops, ch 1 to finish the st (ch-1 does not count as a st).

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Adjustments

This sweater is designed to be quite snug at the hips (with approx. 0-2.25″ / 0-5.5cm of positive ease), but loose at the bust thanks to the “batwing” sleeve design.

When deciding what size to make, measure your hips at the widest part. Use this measurement to select your size from the table above.

(If you would like your sweater to be much looser on the hips, you may wish to select a larger size.)

LENGTH

To make the sweater longer/shorter, I suggest adding/subtracting rows before working any increase rows i.e. at the BODY section where you are instructed to “Repeat Row 2.” If changing the number of repeats, please end on an even numbered (WS) row to ensure that the rest of the pattern makes sense. Each additional 2 rows will add approx. 0.7”/1.7cm to the total length.

SLEEVES

To make the sleeves longer, you can chain any number when beginning the Sleeve Cuff section. Each additional 8 chs will add approx. 1.5”/4cm to the sleeve length.

NECKLINE

To adjust the width of the neckline, simply adjust the width of the shoulder seam on either side.

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Written Pattern

Front & Back Panels (Make 2)

All sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

1) RIBBING

Try to work these stitches as loosely as you can; if you are finding that your work is too tight, then you can consider going up a hook size for the ribbing only.

Ch 9.

Row 1: Yo-slst in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [8]

Row 2: Ch 1, yo-slst BLO in each st across, turn. [8]

Rows 3 – 64 (68, 74, 82, 90) (100, 104, 106, 116): Repeat Row 2.

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2) BODY

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), hdc evenly along edge of ribbing (working 1 st for each ribbing row), turn. [64 (68, 74, 82, 90) (100, 104, 106, 116)]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.

Rows 3 – 12 (12, 14, 14, 14) (18, 18, 18, 18): Repeat Row 2.

Row 13 (13, 15, 15, 15) (19, 19, 19, 19): Ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each st across until 1 st rem, (hdc, dc) in last st, turn. [66 (70, 76, 84, 92) (102, 106, 108, 118)]

Rows 14-33 (14-34, 16-38, 16-38, 16-39) (20-43, 20-44, 20-46, 20-47): Repeat previous row.

Note: each row increases the stitch count by 2. Stitch count at end of Row 33 (34, 38, 38, 39) (43, 44, 46, 47): [106 (112, 122, 130, 140) (150, 156, 162, 174)]

Row 34 (35, 39, 39, 40) (44, 45, 47, 48): Ch 1, 2 hdc in each of first 2 sts, hdc in each st across until 2 sts rem, 2 hdc in next st, 2 dc in last st, turn. [102 (116, 126, 134, 144) (154, 160, 166, 178)]

Rows 35-43 (36-44, 40-48, 40-48, 41-47) (45-49, 46-50, 48-52, 49-51): Repeat previous row.

Note: each row increases the stitch count by 4. Stitch count at end of Row 43 (44, 48, 48, 47) (49, 50, 52, 51): [146 (152, 162, 170, 172) (174, 180, 186, 190)]

Row 44 (45, 49, 49, 48) (50, 51, 53, 52): Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.

Sizes x (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) only

Row(s) x (46, 50, 50, 49-50) (51-52, 52-54, 54-56, 53-56): Repeat previous row x (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 3, 3, 4) more time(s).

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3) PUFF SECTION

All sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Note: for each puff, the ch-1 does not count as a st; it is simply there to close off the puff. Please see the Braided Puff Stitch Chart on Page 51 for more details.

Optional: if you find that the puff stitch pattern increases the width of the sweater slightly, you can:

• Consider changing to a smaller hook for this section i.e. 4mm (G-6) or 4.5mm (7)
• Work the hdc rows in between the puff rows quite tightly to bring the width in line with the previous section.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc, here and throughout), *sk next st, dc in next st, (working over dc just made) puff in skipped st; repeat from * until 1 st rem, dc in last st, turn. [72 (75, 80, 84, 85) (86, 89, 92, 94) puff sts, 74 (77, 82, 86, 87) (88, 91, 94, 96) dc]

Row 2: Ch 3, *sk next ch-1 sp, next puff and next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, (working over dc just made) puff in skipped ch-1 sp; repeat from * until 1 puff rem, sk next ch-1 sp, next puff and next dc, dc in tch-sp, (working over dc just made) puff in skipped ch-1 sp, dc in tch-3, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in first st, *hdc in next ch-1 sp, hdc in next dc, repeat from * across, hdc in tch-3, turn. [146 (152, 162, 170, 172) (174, 180, 186, 190)]

Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.

Rows 5-8: Repeat Puff Section Rows 1-4 once more.

Rows 9-10: Repeat Puff Section Rows 1-2 once more.

Row 11: Repeat Puff Section Row 3.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail (approx 1 yd/1m) for shoulder seaming.

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Assembly and Finishing

BLOCKING

Block each panel to measurements.

SEAM SHOULDERS

Video Tutorial → Seaming your Crochet Garments

PM in the following sts to mark the neckline:

• 55th (58th, 62nd, 66th, 67th) (67th, 70th, 73rd, 75th) st from left hand side.
• 55th (58th, 62nd, 66th, 67th) (67th, 70th, 73rd, 75th) st from right hand side.

Lay both panels flat so that the last rows of each panel are touching, and the marked stitches are aligned. Seam shoulders to marked stitch on each side. Feel free to adjust the width of the neckline to suit your preferences and body shape.

Note: depending on your preferred seaming method, you can lay the panels with either the RS or WS facing up. I seamed the shoulders using the mattress stitch on the RS, but you can also whip stitch on the WS if you prefer.

SLEEVE CUFFS

Work the following steps for each sleeve cuff.

With WS facing, join yarn to sleeve edge i.e. the first even hdc row before the puff section.

Setup row: Ch 1, sc evenly along sleeve edge (working approx. 1 st for each hdc row and 2 sts for each puff row), turn. [approx. 36 (38, 38, 38, 40) (40, 42, 42, 44)]

Note: the stitch counts here are approximate. Use them as a reference point but ensure that you work an even number of sts for this row.

Work the cuff ribbing perpendicular to the sleeve edge, joining to the setup row as you go. At the end of each odd-numbered row, the second sl st is in place of a turning ch-1.

Ch 9.

Row 1: Yo-slst in second ch from hook and each ch across, sl st in each of first 2 sts of setup row, turn. [8]

Row 2: Ch 1, sk 2 sl sts just made, yo-slst BLO in each st across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, yo-slst BLO in each st across, sl st in each of next 2 sts of setup row, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3, ending on Row 2.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail (approx. 2 yds/2m) for seaming.

SEAM SIDES

Turn sweater inside out. Using the long tail from the sleeves, seam each side from sleeve to hem.

Weave in remaining ends. All done!

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I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah