Beara Chunky Crochet Raglan Sweater Pattern

This chunky crochet raglan sweater is a cozy winter wardrobe staple! It is worked from the top down using #5/bulky yarn so it works up really quickly, and you can try it on as you go.

The pattern is written for 8 sizes (XS – 4X). And the entire sweater is crocheted using a single stitch, so it’s a great pattern to try if this is your first crochet sweater or pullover.

The pattern is written for a classic fit, but if you would like an oversized fit you can simply crochet a larger size! And you can easily adjust the length of the sweater by working more/less body rounds.

What you’ll need for this top down crochet sweater

Yarn

Any #5/bulky yarn will work great for this pattern. For my sweater, I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky, which is a 100% acrylic yarn, making it a great choice if wool allergies are a concern. This yarn is also available in so many shades, so there is something to suit all tastes. 

Some suitable alternatives include:

• WeCrochet Brava Bulky (100% Acrylic)
• WeCrochet Wonderfluff (70% Baby Alpaca, 7% Merino Wool , 23% Nylon)
• WeCrochet Mighty Stitch Bulky (80% Acrylic 20% Superwash Wool)
• Lion Brand Hue and Me (80% Acrylic, 20% Wool)
• Cascade 128 Superwash (100% Superwash Merino)

I crocheted my sweater in a solid color but have a look below for some inspiration for a striped version created by the talented ladies who tested this pattern for me!

Hook

For my sweater, I used a 6mm (J-10) crochet hook. Depending on if you crochet tightly or loosely, you may find that you need to go up or down a hook size to match the gauge in the pattern.

If this is your first crochet sweater, it is essential that you get as close to the pattern gauge as possible, to ensure that your sweater turns out the size you expect! 

Other supplies

You will also need a yarn needle to weave in those ends, and 5 stitch markers to mark the 4 raglan corner stitches, and the first stitch of each round. (I would not recommend attempting this pattern without stitch markers!)

Crochet Raglan Sweater Sizing

This sweater is designed with 3” – 5” / 7.5 – 12.5cm of positive ease on the bust. This concept of “ease” refers to the difference between the actual bust measurement and the finished garment measurement. In this pattern, the sweater is designed to be a little larger than the actual bust measurement, hence the term “positive ease.”

The sizes in this pattern are based on the body measurements as laid out by the Craft Yarn Council.

The bust measurements that I used for each size are as follows:

How to crochet this Chunky Raglan Sweater

This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down, in a raglan style.

There are 2 things that I really love about this type of construction:

1. Seamless

Yes that’s right, once this sweater is done, it is done! There is no seaming at all, just a few little ends to weave in.

2. Easy to adjust

Another of my favorite things about top down crochet sweaters is that you can try them on, and adjust, as you go. For example, if you find that the underarm area is a little tight after you have completed the yoke, you can simply add some more even yoke rounds (i.e. with no increases) before splitting for the sleeves and body.

And if you would like to make your sweater length shorter/longer, you can simply subtract/add some body rounds until you are happy with the length! The exact same applies to the sleeves.

So, this type of construction is really well suited to adjusting as you go 🙂

A note on ribbing

Once the body has been worked, the final step is to work the ribbing section. This is worked directly into the last body row, joining the ribbing to that last row with a series of slip stitches.

The full written instructions for this technique are in the pattern below, but if you would like to see step-by-step photos and a video, you can check out my tutorial on “How to attach ribbing to crochet.” (The tutorial is based on attaching single crochet ribbing to a hat, but the technique is exactly the same.)

Crochet Raglan Inspiration

For some color inspiration, have a look at the gorgeous projects created by some of my testers!

Finished Sizes

This sweater is designed with approx. 3”–5” / 7.5cm–12.5cm of positive ease on the bust.

Note: the pattern PDF also includes a schematic for a visual representation of the measurements.

Gauge

Ribbing: 4 sts x 14 rows = 1″ x 4″ / 2.5cm x 10cm measured over sc (blo).

Body: 10 sts x 9 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10cm x 10cm measured over esc.

Materials

Hook:

6mm (J-10) crochet hook (or hook required to meet gauge)

Yarn:

Any #4/Medium/Worsted weight yarn in 2 colors.

The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky (136m/149yds per 100g skein; Weight 5/Bulky; 100% Acrylic).

XS: 861 yds / 787m  

S: 976 yds / 892m

M: 1061 yds / 970m

L: 1195 yds / 1093m 

XL: 1348 yds / 1233m

2XL: 1493 yds / 1365m         

3XL: 1673 yds / 1530m       

4XL: 1782 yds / 1629m

Other items

• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers (5)

Pattern Notes

Skill Level

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sp = space
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• esc = extended single crochet (see Special Stitches)
• blo = back loop only
• INC = Increase
• DEC = Decrease
• RS = Right Side
• WS = Wrong Side
• rem = remaining
• beg = beginning
• pm = place marker

Sizing

• This sweater is designed with 3”–5” / 7.5–12.5cm of positive ease on the bust.
• The sizes in this pattern are based on the body measurements as laid out by the Craft Yarn Council.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).

Construction

• This garment is worked seamlessly from the top down, in a raglan style.
• The garment is crocheted in 3 sections as follows:

1. Yoke – begin with the neckline ribbing, then work the yoke rounds without turning, working 2 increases every 3 rounds.
2. Body – split the yoke to create the armholes and work the body in the round. Finish with “join-as-you-go” ribbing.
3. Sleeves – join yarn at the underarm on each side, and work sleeves in the round, decreasing evenly to the wrist. Again, finish each sleeve with “join-as-you-go” ribbing.

• Each round begins and ends along the raglan line at the back right-hand side of your sweater; the “seam” will run diagonally along this line.
• To adjust the length of the sweater body, or the sleeves, simply repeat the last round of the relevant section as required.

General Pattern Notes

• Ch 1 at the start of each row/round does not count as a stitch.
• All rounds are worked without turning. Join at the end of each round with a sl st.
• Instructions are given for the smallest size, with all larger sizes given in parentheses ( ).
• The stitch count for each row/round is given in [ ] at the end of the row/round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round/row.

Print-friendly PDF

The print-friendly PDF version of this pattern also contains:

• Schematic (sweater construction and measurements)
• Yoke Rounds 1 – 4 (step-by-step pictures)
• Split for Armholes (step-by-step pictures)
• Sleeve Round 1 (step-by-step pictures)
• Table with yoke stitch counts for each round

SPECIAL STITCHES

Extended Single Crochet (esc)

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop i.e. ch 1. [2 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops.

Extended Single Crochet Two Together (esc2tog)

This stitch decreases the stitch count by 1.

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull up a loop i.e. ch 1. [2 loops on hook]

Step 3: Insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 4: Yarn over and pull up a loop i.e. ch 1. [3 loops on hook]

Step 5: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Written Pattern

1) YOKE

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

NECKLINE RIBBING

ROW 1: Leaving a long tail (for seaming), ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [7]

ROW 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc (blo) in each st across, turn. [7]

ROWS 3 – 50 (52, 52, 56, 56, 56, 60, 60): Repeat ROW 2.

Do not fasten off.

Pull up a long loop, tie a loose knot (to prevent your work from unravelling), and remove hook.

Fold ribbing in half and seam edges together with a yarn needle, using the tail from the starting chain.

Turn ribbing the right way around and begin yoke.

YOKE

ROUND 1: Ch 1, esc evenly around edge of ribbing (working 1 st for each ribbing row), sl st to join to beg st, do not turn. [50 (52, 52, 56, 56, 56, 60, 60)]

Mark 4 corners by placing stitch markers in the following sts:

• XS: 1, 10, 26, 35
• S: 1, 10, 27, 36
• M: 1, 10, 27, 36
• L: 1, 11, 29, 39.
• XL: 1, 11, 29, 39
• 2XL: 1, 11, 29, 39
• 3XL: 1, 12, 31, 42
• 4XL: 1, 12, 31, 42

Note: each INC round will add 8 sts to the stitch count i.e. 2 sts added at each corner. On EVEN rounds, the stitch count will be the same as the previous round. On each round, move the stitch markers up to each new corner stitch.

ROUND 2 (INC): Ch 1, 3 esc in join st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made), *esc in each st to next marked st, 3 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made); repeat from * twice more, esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [58 (60, 60, 64, 64, 64, 68, 68)]

Note: pm in sl st just made – this will make it easier to finish the next round. You may find it helpful to mark the sl st at the end of all INC rounds.

ROUND 3 (INC): Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, 3 esc in first marked st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made), *esc in each st to next marked st, 3 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 3 sts just made); repeat from * twice more, esc in each remaining st, ending with last esc in joining sl st, sl st to join to beg st. [66 (68, 68, 72, 72, 72, 76, 76)]

SIZES 2XL (3XL, 4XL) only

ROUND 4 (INC): Repeat ROUND 3. [80 (84, 84)]

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

ROUND 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) (EVEN): Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, esc in first st (pm in st just made), *esc in each st to next marked st, esc in marked st (pm in st just made), repeat from * twice more, esc in each remaining st, ending with last esc in joining sl st,, sl st to join to beg st (i.e. the first marked st). [66 (68, 68, 72, 72, 80, 84, 84)]

Note: DO NOT pm in sl st just made – you will not work into this sl st at the end of the next round.

SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL) only

ROUNDS 5 – 19 (19, 19, 19, 22): Repeat ROUNDS 2 – 4. [146 (148, 148, 152, 168)]

SIZES 2XL (3XL, 4XL) only

ROUNDS 6 – 21 (21, 21): Repeat ROUNDS 2 – 5. [176 (180, 180)]

YOKE (BUST INC ONLY)

The following yoke rounds will add stitches to the BUST only – no stitches will be added to the sleeves. Do not attempt this section without stitch markers!

SIZES S, (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL 4XL) only

ROUND 20 (20, 20, 23, 22, 22, 22) (INC): Ch 1, 2 esc in first marked st (pm in second st of 2 just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [152 (152, 156, 172, 180, 184, 184)]

SIZES M, (L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) only

ROUND 21 (21, 24, 23, 23, 23) (INC): Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, 2 esc in first marked st (pm in second st of 2 just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in second st of 2 sts just made), esc in each st to next marked st, 2 esc in marked st (pm in first st of 2 sts just made), esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [156 (160, 176, 184, 188, 188)]

SIZES L (XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) only

ROUNDS 22 – 23 (25 – 25, 24 – 25, 24 – 26, 24 – 27) (INC): Repeat previous round 2 (1, 2, 3, 4) times. [168 (180, 192, 200, 204)]

2) BODY

SPLIT FOR ARMHOLES

SIZE XS only

JOINING ROUND: Ch 1, *esc in marked st, ch 1, sk next 32 sts, esc in next marked st*, esc in each st to next marked st, repeat from * to * once more, esc in each remaining st, sl st to join to beg st. [82 esc, 2 ch]

SIZES S, (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL 4XL)

JOINING ROUND: Sl st to first marked st, ch 1, *esc in marked st, ch 3 (5, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13), sk next 32 (32, 33, 37, 39, 40, 40) sts, esc in next marked st*, esc in each st to next marked st, repeat from * to * once more, esc in each remaining st, ending with last esc in joining sl st, sl st to join to beg st.[88 (92, 102, 106, 114, 120, 124) esc, 6 (10, 10, 14, 18, 22, 26) ch]

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

ROUND 1: Ch 1, esc in each st around, working 1 esc in each underarm ch, sl st to join to beg st. [84 (94, 102, 112, 120, 132, 142, 150)]

ROUND 2: Ch 1, esc in each st around, sl st to join to beg st. [84 (94, 102, 112, 120, 132, 142, 150)]

ROUNDS 3 – 23: Repeat ROUND 2.

Note: if you would like to make your sweater a little longer, you can repeat ROUND 2 until your desired length is reached. (Remember that the ribbing will add approx. 2.5”/5cm in length to the finished sweater!)

Do not fasten off.

BODY RIBBING

Note: Ribbing is worked at a right angle to the body, and is joined to the body as you go.

ROW 1: Ch 10, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch until you reach the body, sl st to join to next body st. [9]

ROW 2: Sl st to next body st, turn. Sk 2 sl sts, sc (blo) in each st across, turn.

ROW 3: Ch 1, sc (blo) in each st across, sl st to join to next body st.

Repeat previous 2 rows until you have worked a ribbing row for each body st.

Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the ribbing.

3) SLEEVES

ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)

Note: before beginning the sleeves, take note of the 2 “body” sts to the left and right of the underarm chain. To avoid any gaps, you will work an “esc2tog” into the side of this body st and the armhole st beside it.

Join yarn in center of underarm chain.

ROUND 1: Ch 1, esc in join ch and each of next 0 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) chs, esc2tog in side of “body” st and next armhole st, esc in each armhole st around until 1 st rem before “body” st, esc2tog in next st and side of “body” st, esc in each of next 0 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) chs, sl st to join to beg st. [33 (35, 37, 38, 44, 48, 51, 53)]

ROUND 2: Ch 1, esc in each st around, sl st to join to beg st. [33 (35, 37, 38, 44, 48, 51, 53)]

ROUND 3 (DEC): Ch 1, esc2tog in first 2 sts, esc in each st around, sl st to join to beg st. [32 (34, 36, 37, 43, 47, 50, 52)]

SIZES XS (S, M, L) only

ROUND 4 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2.

ROUNDS 5 – 28 (30, 30, 30): Repeat previous 2 rounds 12 (13, 13, 13) more times. [20 (21, 23, 24)]

SIZE XL only

ROUND 4 (DEC): Repeat ROUND 3. [42]

ROUND 5 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2. [42]

ROUNDS 6 – 29: Repeat previous 3 rounds 8 more times. [26]

SIZE 2XL only

ROUNDS 4 – 5 (DEC): Repeat ROUND 3. [45]

ROUND 6 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2. [45]

ROUNDS 7 – 30: Repeat previous 4 rounds 6 more times. [27]

SIZE 3XL (4XL) only

ROUNDS 4 – 6 (DEC): Repeat ROUND 3. [47 (49)]

ROUND 7 (EVEN): Repeat ROUND 2. [47 (49)]

ROUNDS 8 – 32: Repeat previous 5 rounds 5 more times. [27 (29)]

Note: if you would like to make your sleeves a little longer, you can repeat the final sleeve round until your desired length is reached. (Remember that the ribbing will add approx. 2.5”/5cm in length to the finished sleeves!)

SLEEVE RIBBING

Work ribbing as per BODY.

Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the ribbing.

Finishing

SEAMING

Turn the sweater inside out, and whip stitch the ribbing edges together on both the BODY and the SLEEVES.

BLOCKING

Block sweater to measurements.

Weave in remaining ends.

All done!

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah