This cute tapestry crochet clutch is a perfect “on-the-go” accessory, designed to fit the essentials. And best of all it’s a free pattern!
This fold-over clutch is has a really simple colorwork pattern repeat. So, if you are new to tapestry crochet, this is a great first pattern to try out.
The pattern includes a full photo tutorial on how to line the clutch, and add a zipper. You will only need very basic sewing skills for this step – don’t worry!
I like to have both hands free so I added an icord wrist strap to my clutch. If you don’t have the necessary supplies this step is optional.
Best yarn for your Chevron Crochet Clutch
Cotton or a cotton blend is a great yarn choice for crochet bags, totes and clutches as it is durable enough for every day use.
I used a #3/DK/Lightweight yarn for my clutch (Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK which is 100% cotton), but a similar fiber in a #4/Medium/Worsted yarn would work great too. Some other yarns that would work great include Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Hobby Lobby I Love this Cotton, or Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream.
Clutch Sizing & Adjustments
This clutch pattern is written for one size, and measures approx. 8.5” / 22 cm in width, and approx. 9.25” / 24 cm unfolded (6” / 15 cm folded) in height.
You can easily make a larger clutch by adding any multiple of 10 to your starting chain (each 10 extra sts will add approx 1.5-2″ to the width). You can make the clutch taller by working more rows – easy peasy!
Chevron Tapestry Crochet Clutch
Free Crochet Wrap Pattern
Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch = chain
- st = stitch
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- blo = back loop only
- pm = place marker
- MC = Main Color
- CC1 = Contrast Color 1
- CC2 = Contrast Color 2
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong Side
- This clutch is crocheted in the round from the bottom up.
- You will crochet the clutch as a “tube”, then seam the bottom to close it. (Leave a long tail at the start of your foundation chain and use this to close up the bottom.)
- Attach fabric liner and zipper to finish.
- The clutch is crocheted using the tapestry crochet technique.
- You will always work with two strands of yarn:
- one is your working yarn
- the second is carried beneath your stitches
- On rounds that only have one color, you should still carry a strand (of the same color) to keep the tension even.
- Take care not to pull your carried yarn too tightly, as this will cause your work to bunch up. If you have never done this before, don’t worry – it gets easier with practice.
- Change color as follows:
- With Color A, insert hook into blo of next st, yarn over and pull through (two loops on hook).
- Do not complete the stitch with Color A.
- Instead, keeping Color A to the back of your work (and pulling it gently to the right), yarn over Color B and pull through both loops on hook. Color change made.
- Carry Color A beneath your stitches until you reach the next color change.
Chart & Written Instructions
- For the colorwork section, you can either use the Colorwork Chart at the end of this post pattern or follow the written instructions.
- If using the chart, start at the bottom right corner and work right-to-left. Each square on the chart corresponds to 1 sc.
- The chart pattern repeats every 10 sts.
- If using the written instructions, for each block of color, the instruction is written as follows:
(COLOR) stitch COUNT
(CC1) sc blo 5
Width: approx. 8.5” / 22 cm
Height: approx. 9.25” / 24 cm unfolded (6” / 15 cm folded)
22 stitches x 19 rounds/rows = 4” x 4” / 10cm x 10cm measured over sc blo worked in the round.
Note: It is not essential to match gauge for this project.
- 3.5mm/E-4 (if using #3 / Light / DK weight yarn)
- 4mm/G-6 (if using #4 / Medium / Worsted weight yarn)
Note: You want to choose a hook that will give you nice tight stitches so that the carried yarn will not peek through. If you crochet very loosely you may even need to go down another hook size. You will probably end up going with smaller hook than what you would normally use with your chosen yarn – this is completely fine!
Yarn: Any #3 / Light / DK OR #4 / Medium / Worsted yarn.
The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yds (125m) per 50g skein; #3/Lightweight; 100% Cotton)
MC: Soft Fudge – 98 yds / 90m (36g)
CC1: Seafoam Blue – 66 yds / 60m (24g)
CC2: Vintage Pink – 66 yds / 60m (24g)
- Fabric (approx. 9” x 18.5” / 23 cm x 50 cm)
- Zipper (approx. 9 – 10” / 23 – 25cm)
- Stitch marker
- Optional: D-ring/split ring and clasp
Written Pattern (US Terms)
With MC and leaving a long tail, ch 90, sl st to first ch to form a ring (being careful not to twist the chain).
N.B. Don’t forget to carry another strand of MC beneath your stitches as you work the first 16 rounds.
Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in join ch and in each ch around, do not join. 
Round 2: sc blo in first st (pm in this sc), sc blo in each st around, do not join. 
Rounds 3 – 16: Repeat Round 2.
Note: for Rounds 17 – 40, you can either follow the written instructions here, or the colorwork chart. You will work the 10-st pattern repeat in the chart 9 times around i.e. 90 sts.
Round 17: *(CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 5; repeat from * around, do not join.
Round 18: (CC2) sc blo 1, *(CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 5; repeat from * until 9 sts remain, (CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 4, do not join.
Round 19: (CC2) sc blo 2, *(CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 5; repeat from * until 8 sts remain, (CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 3, do not join.
Round 20: (CC2) sc blo 3, *(CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 5; repeat from * until 7 sts remain, (CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 2, do not join.
Round 21: (CC2) sc blo 4, *(CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 5; repeat from * until 6 sts remain, (CC1) sc blo 5, (CC2) sc blo 1, do not join.
Round 22: Repeat Round 20.
Round 23: Repeat Round 19.
Round 24: Repeat Round 18.
Rounds 25 – 40: Repeat Rounds 17 – 24 [2 times].
Round 41: Repeat Round 17.
Rounds 42 – 44: With MC, repeat Round 2.
Round 45: Sl st (both loops) in each st around, sl st to join to first st.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Pin pouch to a blocking mat. I wet-blocked mine but steam blocking would work well too.
Don’t skip this step! It will give you a chance to correct any shaping issues with your work.
STITCH BOTTOM EDGES
Once blocked, turn the clutch inside out and whip stitch the bottom edges together.
Weave in any ends and turn clutch the right way around.
ATTACH LINER & ZIPPER
- Cut a piece of fabric to the following measurements:
Width: clutch width + 0.25” seam allowance at each side i.e. 8.5” + 0.5” = 9” / 23 cm
Height: clutch height x 2 i.e. 9.25” x 2 = 18.5” / 50 cm
Ideally, press your fabric to make it easier to sew.
- Lay fabric flat with right side facing up. Lay zipper on top (also right side up), so that the top edges of the fabric and zipper are aligned. Pin in place and sew.
- Fold zipper up so that you are looking at the WS of the zipper. Now fold the bottom edge of the fabric upwards to meet the top edge of the zipper.
Pin in place and sew. When you are done you will be looking at the RS of the zipper and the WS of the fabric i.e. you want the RS of the fabric to be visible when you open the clutch.
- Pin the back and front of the liner together on each side, and sew. Position your seams so that your finished liner will be the same width as the pouch.
- Insert liner into clutch and pin in place. Sew zipper to clutch.
WRIST STRAP (optional)
Crochet an i-cord approx. 12” / 30cm in length. Sew ends together to form a loop. Attach to base of clasp as shown.
Note: This video from Bella Coco Crochet shows how to crochet an i cord: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o97aBEJ4Mto
Fold the clutch in half so that the edges of the colorwork are aligned. Attach the D-ring or split ring at the fold line.
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!