Chunky Crochet Basket – Free Pattern

This chunky crochet basket has a such a unique texture, thanks to the “diagonal chevron” stitch pattern.

The basket is crocheted with super bulky (#6 yarn) so it works up very quickly. I used some stash yarn for my basket, but I have listed some suitable alternatives below.

If this stitch pattern is new to you, then please do check out the video tutorial below!

Crochet Basket Construction

This basket is worked in two sections.

First you will work the base – this is a simple circle, worked flat in continuous rounds and using the waistcoat stitch.

Next, you will work the sides of the basket. The first round of the sides is worked into the back loop only (blo) of the final base round, so you can continue working the sides without needing to cut your yarn!

Waistcoat Single Crochet (wc)

The waistcoat stitch is a variation on your basic single crochet. Instead of into the top of your next sc, you will instead insert hook into the “v” of the sc. This requires a little bit more effort but results in a very dense, sturdy fabric.

Diagonal Chevron Stitch Pattern

You will create the “diagonal chevron” pattern on the basket sides, using a special stitch called the “long sc2tog.” You can find more details in the Diagonal Chevron Stitch Tutorial, or watch the Chunky Crochet Basket Video that accompanies this pattern.

I also used this stitch pattern for my Little Arrows Cowl, so if you like the texture of the basket, you might like to give the cowl a go!

Chunky Crochet Basket Video

What you’ll need for this chunky crochet basket

Yarn

Any #6/super bulky weight yarn will work great for this pattern. For my basket, I used some stash yarn (and alas, I lost the label!) but here are some suitable alternatives:

• Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky (100% acrylic)
• Paintbox Yarns Recycled T-Shirt Yarn
• Stylecraft Special XL Super Chunky (100% acrylic)
• Bernat Maker Big (50% Cotton 50% Nylon)

Hook

For my basket, I used a 7mm (L) crochet hook. It is not absolutely essential to match gauge for this pattern (as it would be for a garment for example). But you will want to choose a hook size that gives you nice tight stitches, just to make your basket a little more sturdy.

Other supplies

You will also need 5 stitch markers and a yarn needle.

Crochet Basket Size

The base of my basket measures approx. 34″ / 80 cm around, after working 11 waistcoat stitch rounds. It is very easily to make a basket in a different size, you can simply work more or less base rounds, and then proceed to the sides.

Note: if you decide to work more rounds for the base, you will need to do a little math to ensure that you are increasing by 6 stitches on each round!

Finished Size

This pattern is written for one size:

Circumference: approx. 34″ /86cm

Height: 7″ / 18cm

Gauge

8 sts x 7 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10cm x 10cm measured over patt.

Note: it is not essential to match gauge for this pattern. It is more important to use a hook that will give you nice, tight stitches with your chosen yarn.

Materials

Hook:

7mm (L) crochet hook (or hook suitable for use with your chosen yarn – this may vary depending on yarn thickness)

Yarn:

Any #6/Super Bulky weight yarn – approx 250yds/230m.

• Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky (100% acrylic)
• Paintbox Yarns Recycled T-Shirt Yarn
• Stylecraft Special XL Super Chunky (100% acrylic)
• Bernat Maker Big (50% Cotton 50% Nylon)

Other items

• 5 stitch markers
• Yarn needle

Pattern Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Skill Level

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• sk = skip
• st = stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• wc = waistcoat single crochet (see Special Stitches)
• long sc2tog = long single crochet 2 together (see Special Stitches)
• blo = back loop only
• beg = beginning
• pm = place marker
• mc = magic circle
• patt = pattern

Construction

• This basket is crocheted in two sections:Base: worked flat in the continuous rounds i.e. you do not join to the beg of the round with a sl st.
• Sides: the first round is worked into the back loop of the last Base round, then the rest of the basket is worked in continuous rounds.

General Pattern Notes

• As the basket is worked in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
• The stitch count for each round is given in [ ] at the end of the round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round.

Special Stitches

Waistcoat Single Crochet (wc) (also called Knit Stitch or Shallow Single Crochet)

This stitch is a variation on the single crochet (sc) stitch.

Instead of working a stitch into the top of your next sc, insert hook into the “v” of the sc.

This requires a little bit more effort but results in a very dense, sturdy fabric.

Long Single Crochet 2 Together (long sc2tog)

Note: this stitch is used to create the “diagonal chevron” effect on the basket. Please see this page for a detailed description, photo and video tutorial of the stitch pattern. Or you can check out the video tutorial that accompanies this basket pattern.

Set up: Sc in each of next 2 sts as per pattern.

Step 1: Working back over the 2 sc just made, insert hook back into the first st one round below. Yarn over and pull up a long loop, stretching it to the height required for the current round. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Working over the next st, insert hook into next st 2 rounds below. Yarn over and pull up another long loop, stretching it to the height required for the current round. [3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Written Pattern

BASE

Round 1: Begin with a mc, ch 1, 6 sc in circle, do not join. Pull tail tightly to close circle. [6]

Round 2: 2 wc in each st around, do not join. [12]

Round 3: *2 wc in first st, wc in next st; repeat from * around, do not join. [18]

Round 4: *2 wc in first st, wc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [24]

Round 5: *2 wc in first st, wc in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [30]

Round 6: Wc in each of first 2 sts, *2 wc in next st, wc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * until 3 sts rem, 2 wc in next st, wc in each of last 2 sts, do not join. [36]

Round 7: *2 wc in first st, wc in each of next 5 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [42]

Round 8: Wc in each of first 3 sts, *2 wc in next st, wc in each of next 6 sts; repeat from * until 4 sts rem, 2 wc in next st, wc in each of last 3 sts, do not join. [48]

Round 9: *2 wc in first st, wc in each of next 7 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [54]

Round 10: Wc in each of first 4 sts, *2 wc in next st, wc in each of next 8 sts; repeat from * until 5 sts rem, 2 wc in next st, wc in each of last 4 sts, do not join. [60]

Round 11: *2 wc in first st, wc in each of next 9 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [66]

Round 12: Sl st in each st around. [66]

Sl st to join to beg st OR join with a seamless join.

The print-friendly PDF contains step-by-step photo tutorial on how to work the seamless join, or you can also find it in the video above for more details on how to work this seamless join.

SIDES

Round 1: Ch 1, sc (blo) in each st of Round 11, do not join. [66]

Round 2: Sc in each of first 2 sts (pm in first sc), long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in next st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made, *sc in each of next 2 sts, long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in next st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made; repeat from * around, do not join.

Round 3: Sc in each of first 3 sts (pm in first sc), long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in next st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made, *sc in each of next 2 sts, long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in next st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made; repeat from * until 2 sts rem, sc in each of last 2 sts, long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in beg marked st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made, do not join.

Rounds 4 – 9: Repeat Round 3.

The next round will create the handles.

PM in the following stitches to mark handle positions: 15, 22, 48, 55.

Round 10: Sc in each of first 3 sts (pm in first sc), long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in next st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made, *[ sc in each of next 2 sts, long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in next st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made] until 1 st rem before first marked st, sc in next st, ch 10, sk next 8 sts (incl. both marked sts); repeat from * one more time, [ sc in each of next 2 sts, long sc2tog (working first leg in same st as second last sc just made, and second leg in next st two rounds below), sk st behind long sc2tog just made] to end, do not join.

Round 11: *Sl st in each st to ch-10 sp, 11 sc in ch-10 sp; repeat from * once more, sl st in each rem st, sl st to join to beg st. [50 sl sts, 22 sc]

Finishing

Weave in ends. All done!

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry or Etsy.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah