Hazel Ruana – Free Color-Block Crochet Ruana Pattern

This crochet ruana free pattern features bold color blocking and a relaxed fit, making it the perfect layering piece for any season. Effortlessly stylish and cozy, it’s a wardrobe staple you’ll love to wear.

And if you love co-ordinating crochet patterns, you’ll also love the Hazel Beanie and Hazel Fingerless Gloves (coming soon!). Both use the same gorgeous stitch pattern as the ruana, but worked in the round rather than in rows.

Scroll down for the free written pattern, or purchase the ad-free, print-friendly PDF here.

Where to Get This Pattern

Why I Love This Crochet Ruana Pattern

First of all, what on earth is a ruana?!

A ruana is a super simple, open-front garment that’s kind of a cross between a blanket and a cape. It’s so versatile – you can wear it loosely like a poncho or style it as a blanket scarf by draping one side over your shoulder. The oversized fit makes it easy to layer over just about anything!

How to wear a ruana

This crochet ruana can be worn in a variety of ways, whether you want a casual look or need something to keep you warm on a crisp morning walk. The color-block design gives it plenty of styling options, and the simple construction makes it an approachable project for confident beginners. 

With four different sizes to choose from, you can make a ruana that suits your style and fit preferences perfectly.

Skill Level

This is an easy project that’s perfect for confident beginners, or experienced crocheters who want a meditative crochet project!

You’ll use basic crochet stitches to create three rectangles – two for the front panels and one for the back. Once you have your pieces, you’ll join them at the shoulders to form your cozy ruana.

OK, Let’s Make This  Crochet Ruana!

1. Gather Your Materials

Yarn

For this ruana, you’ll need a #4/Worsted/Medium weight yarn. For my sample pictured, I used WeCrochet Wool of the Andes Superwash Worsted.

You can swap the wool for a cotton blend or a soft acrylic yarn if you prefer something lighter or more affordable. The written pattern below lists a variety of different yarns in both wool and acrylic fibers.

Hook

For this pattern, I used two different hooks for the ribbing and body sections.

I find it easier to work the yo-slst ribbing with a sligthly larger hook, so for this I used a 6mm (L-10) hook.

For the body, I used a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook to achieve a lovely drape without creating too many gaps in the fabric.

2. Grab Your Pattern

Before you dive into this project, it’s always helpful to read through the pattern first. It gives you an overview of the steps and helps you understand the construction before you begin crocheting.

You’ll crochet three separate rectangles—two for the front panels and one for the back. Once you finish the rectangles, you’ll seam them together at the shoulders to form the ruana.

• Ribbing: You’ll start by crocheting the ribbing for all three rectangles—two for the front panels and one for the back. This forms the foundation of the ruana.
• Body Pattern: Once the ribbing is complete, you’ll begin working the body pattern directly into the edge of the ribbing. Crochet in rows, switching colors as indicated to achieve the color-block effect.
• Blocking: Before assembly, block all three rectangles to ensure they lie flat and have the correct dimensions.
• Assembly: After blocking, seam the rectangles together at the shoulders to connect the front and back panels.

3. Tips & Tricks for Success!

Gauge

Gauge is important to keep in mind, but it’s not critical for this pattern since the ruana has a flowing, relaxed fit. If your gauge is slightly off, don’t worry too much – just keep an eye on it to ensure that it doesn’t stray too far from that listed in the pattern.

Blocking

Blocking is a critical step before assembly. It helps ensure all three rectangles are the same size and the fabric lies flat. Don’t skip this step! Simply pin the pieces to the correct dimensions and steam or wet block as needed for the yarn you’ve chosen.

Using Stitch Markers

When you start working the body of the ruana, use stitch markers to mark the beginning and end of each color block section. This will help you keep track of your color changes and ensure your blocks are evenly spaced, especially if you’re customizing the width of each color.

Customizations

Feel free to get creative with the color blocks! You can easily adjust the width of each color section or use more than four colors for a truly unique piece. Want a shorter/ longer ruana? Just subtract/ add rows to the body pattern!

Assembly

When seaming the rectangles together at the shoulders, use the mattress stitch for a seamless, professional finish. This creates a smooth join that’s nearly invisible.

For more details on different seaming methods, you might like to check out this video tutorial → How to Seam Crochet Garments.

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry or Etsy.

Pattern Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Skill Level

Easy

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• blo = back loop only
• ch = chain
• C1 = Color 1
• C2 = Color 2
• C3 = Color 3
• C4 = Color 4
• rem = remaining
• sc = single crochet
• sc/hdc2tog = single crochet/half double crochet 2 together (see Special Stitches)
• sl st(s) = slip stitch(es)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• pm = place marker
• yo = yarn over
• yo-slst = yarn over slip stitch (see Special Stitches)

Construction

This ruana is worked in three separate panels (two for the front and one for the back) which are seamed at the shoulders. Each panel is worked from the bottom up as follows:

• Ribbing: Work the ribbing lengthways in a long strip.
• Body: Work the body in rows, beginning with the first row worked into the edge of the ribbing.

General Pattern Notes

• Ch 1 at the start of a row does not count as a stitch.
• The stitch count for each row is given in [ ] at the end of the row. Stitch count includes chains within the row, but does not include the turning ch 1 at the start of a row.
• If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous row.
• Instructions are written for multiple sizes as follows: XS/S (M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X/5X).
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch counts and rows that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).

Color Changes

• Regardless of whether you are working a RS or WS row, you will always change color on the last step of the sc/hdc2tog stitch. The first stitch in the new color will always be a ch 1.
• Use a new ball/skein for each color block. Do not carry the yarn under your stitches. Do not cut yarn unless you have finished a color block.
• After Row 1, float the new color up to the current row on each color change.

To change color on the RS:

• Step 1: With working yarn, do NOT complete last sc/hdc2tog before color change.
• Step 2: Keeping working yarn to BACK of work, yo new color and pull up a loop. Color change made.
• Step 3: Ch 1 and continue working in pattern using new color.

To change color on the WS:

• Step 1: With working yarn, do NOT complete last sc/hdc2tog before color change.
• Step 2: Keeping working yarn to FRONT of work, yo new color and pull up a loop. Color change made.
• Step 3: Ch 1 and continue working in pattern using new color

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Materials

Yarn

Any #4/Worsted/Medium weight yarn. The amounts given here are for WeCrochet Wool of the Andes Superwash Worsted (110yds/100m per 50g skein; #4/Worsted/Medium; 100% Superwash Wool).

Colors used in the sample pictured are as follows:
C1: Persimmon Heather
C2: Cobblestone Heather
C3: Dove Heather
C4: Oyster Heather

	XS/S		M/L		XL/2X		3X/4X/5X
	yds/m	skeins	yds/m	skeins	yds/m	skeins	yds/m	skeins
C1	375 yds / 343m	4	440 yds / 402m	4	460 yds / 421m	5	515 yds / 471m	5
C2	470 yds / 430 m	5	555 yds / 507 m	5	630 yds / 576 m	6	705 yds / 645 m	7
C3	435 yds / 398m	4	485 yds / 443m	5	580 yds / 530m	6	610 yds / 558m	6
C4	475 yds / 434m	5	580 yds / 530m	6	605 yds / 553m	6	695 yds / 636m	7
TOTAL	1755 yds / 1605m	18	2060 yds / 1884m	20	2275 yds / 2080m	23	2525 yds / 2309m	25

Alternative yarn options:

Wool

• $ – Paintbox Yarns 100% Wool Worsted Superwash (100% Wool)
• $$ – Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Merino (100% Merino Wool)
• $$ – WeCrochet Swish Worsted (100% Superwash Merino Wool)
• $$ – Berocco Ultra Wool (100% Wool)
• $$$ – WeCrochet High Desert Worsted (100% American Wool)

Acrylic

• $ – WeCrochet Brava Worsted (100% Premium Acrylic)
• $ – Lion Brand Color Theory (100% Premium Acrylic)
• $$ – Lion Brand Heartland (100% Acrylic)

Hooks

Ribbing: 6mm (J-10) crochet hook (or hook required to meet gauge)
Body: 5.5mm (I-9) crochet hook (or hook required to meet gauge)

Other Items

• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers (4)

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Finished Measurements

	XS/S	M/L	XL/2X	3X/4X/5X
To Fit Bust	28 – 34″ /71 – 86cm	36 – 42″ /92 – 107cm	44 – 50″ /112 – 127cm	52 – 62″ /132 – 158cm
Back Panel Width	43.75″ / 111cm	47.75″ / 121cm	51.25″ / 130cm	55.25″ / 140cm
Front Panel Width	19.75″ / 50cm	21.5″ / 54.5cm	22.5″ / 57.5cm	24.25″ / 61.5cm
Panel Length (incl. trim)	26″ / 66cm	28″ / 71cm	29″ / 73.5cm	30″ / 76cm

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Gauge

Ribbing: ​​9 sts x 14 rows = 2″ x 4″ / 5 cm x 10 cm measured over yo-slst blo (see Special Stitches) with larger hook.
Body: 14 sts x 12 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm measured over pattern with smaller hook.

Note: the stitch count given above includes both sc/hdc2tog (see Special Stitches) and chain spaces (ch-sps).

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Special Stitches

Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yo-slst)

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Do NOT yarn over, continue to pull the bottom loop on hook through top 2 loops. (You may find it easier to rotate your hook away from you as you pull through).

Single Crochet/Half Double Crochet 2 Together (sc/hdc2tog)

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [4 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

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Written Pattern

All Sizes: XS/S (M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X/5X)

FRONT PANEL – RIGHT

Ribbing

With C1 and larger hook, ch 10. 

Row 1: Yo-slst in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [9]

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), yo-slst blo in each st across, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have a total of 69 (75, 79, 85) rows. Your ribbing will measure approximately 19.75″ (21.5″, 22.5″, 24.25″) / 50cm (54.5cm, 57.5cm, 61.5cm) (unstretched).

Fasten off.

Rotate the ribbing 90 degrees. You will work the first row of the Body section into the long edge of the ribbing.

Body

Change to smaller hook. Join C2 to last ribbing stitch worked. Pm in the following ribbing rows to mark the points at which you will change colors:

Marker 1 (change to C1 or C4 depending on the row): 22 (24, 26, 28)

Marker 2 (change to C3): 54 (60, 62, 68)

Row 1 (RS): With C2, ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc/hdc2tog (inserting hook first into join st, then into side of next ribbing row), ch 1, *sc/hdc2tog over sides of next 2 ribbing rows, ch 1; repeat from *, changing to C1 at first marker and to C3 at second marker until 1 Ribbing row rem, sc in top of Ribbing starting chain, turn.

[XS/S: C2: 21, C1: 32, C3: 16 = 69]

[M/L: C2: 23, C1: 36, C3: 16 = 75]

[XL/2X: C2: 25, C1: 36, C3: 18 = 79]

[3X/4X/5X: C2: 27, C1: 40, C3: 18 = 85]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc/hdc2tog over first st and next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc/hdc2tog over next st and next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from *, changing color in line with previous row until 1 st rem, sc in last st, turn.

[XS/S: C3: 15, C1: 32, C2: 22 = 69]

[M/L: C3: 15, C1: 36, C2: 24 = 75]

[XL/2X: C3: 17, C1: 36, C2: 26 = 79]

[3X/4X/5X: C3: 17, C1: 40, C2: 28 = 85)

Row 3 (RS): Repeat Row 2, changing color in line with previous row. 

Note that while the written instructions are the same as for Row 2, the stitch counts for individual colors are actually the same as Row 1.

[XS/S: C2: 21, C1: 32, C3: 16 = 69]

[M/L: C2: 23, C1: 36, C3: 16 = 75]

[XL/2X: C2: 25, C1: 36, C3: 18 = 79]

[3X/4X/5X: C2: 27, C1: 40, C3: 18 = 85]

Rows 4-24 (26, 27, 28):  Repeat Row 2, continuing to change color consistently. 

It does not matter whether you end on a RS or a WS row.

Cut C1.

Rows 25-72 (27-78, 28-81, 29-84): Continue to repeat Row 2, replacing C1 with C4 in the middle section of each row.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail of approx. 35” / 89cm for seaming.

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FRONT PANEL – LEFT

Ribbing

With C1 and larger hook, work as for FRONT PANEL – RIGHT.

Body

Change to smaller hook. Join C3 to last ribbing stitch worked. Pm in the following ribbing rows to mark the points at which you will change colors:

Marker 1 (change to C1 or C4 depending on the row): 16 (16, 18, 18)

Marker 2 (change to C2): 48 (52, 54, 58)

Row 1 (RS): With C3, ch 1, sc/hdc2tog (inserting hook first into join st, then into side of next ribbing row), ch 1, *sc/hdc2tog over sides of next 2 ribbing rows, ch 1; repeat from *, changing to C1 at first marker and to C2 at second marker until 1 Ribbing row rem, sc in top of Ribbing starting chain, turn.

[XS/S: C3: 15, C1: 32, C2: 22 = 69]

[M/L: C3: 15, C1: 36, C2: 24 = 75]

[XL/2X: C3: 17, C1: 36, C2: 26 = 79]

[3X/4X/5X: C3: 17, C1: 40, C2: 28 = 85]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc/hdc2tog over first st and next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc/hdc2tog over next st and next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from *, changing color in line with previous row until 1 st rem, sc in last st, turn.

[XS/S: C2: 21, C1: 32, C3: 16 = 69]

[M/L: C2: 23, C1: 36, C3: 16 = 75]

[XL/2X: C2: 25, C1: 36, C3: 18 = 79]

[3X/4X/5X: C2: 27, C1: 40, C3: 18 = 85]

Row 3 (RS): Repeat Row 2, changing color in line with previous row. 

Note that while the row instructions are the same as for Row 2, the stitch counts for individual colors are actually the same as Row 1.

[XS/S: C3: 15, C1: 32, C2: 22 = 69]

[M/L: C3: 15, C1: 36, C2: 24 = 75]

[XL/2X: C3: 17, C1: 36, C2: 26 = 79]

[3X/4X/5X: C3: 17, C1: 40, C2: 28 = 85]

Rows 4-24 (26, 27, 28):  Repeat Row 2, continuing to change color consistently. 

It does not matter whether you end on a RS or a WS row.

Cut C1.

Rows 25-72 (27-78, 28-81, 29-84): Continue to repeat Row 2, replacing C1 with C4 in the middle section of each row.

Fasten off.

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BACK PANEL

Ribbing

With C1 and larger hook, work Ribbing as for FRONT PANELS, working 153 (167, 179, 193) rows in total. Your ribbing will measure approximately 43.75″ (47.75″, 51.25″, 55.25″) / 111cm (121cm, 130cm, 140cm) (unstretched).

Body

Change to smaller hook. Join C2 to last ribbing stitch worked. Pm in the following ribbing rows to mark the points at which you will change colors:

Marker 1 (change to C1 or C4 depending on the row): 22 (24, 26, 28)

Marker 2 (change to C3): 54 (60, 62, 68)

Marker 3 (change to C1 or C4 depending on the row): 100 (108, 118, 126)

Marker 4 (change to C2): 132 (144, 154, 166)

Row 1 (RS): With C2, ch 1, sc/hdc2tog (inserting hook first into join st, then into side of next ribbing row), ch 1, *sc/hdc2tog over sides of next 2 ribbing rows, ch 1; repeat from *, changing to C1 at first marker, C3 at second marker, C1 at third marker and C2 at last marker until 1 Ribbing row rem, sc in top of Ribbing starting chain, turn.

[XS/S: C2: 21, C1: 32, C3: 46, C1: 32, C2: 22 = 153]

[M/L: C2: 23, C1: 36, C3: 48, C1: 36, C2: 24 = 167] 

[XL/2X: C2: 25, C1: 36, C3: 56, C1: 36, C2: 26 = 179]

[3X/4X/5X: C2: 27, C1: 40, C3: 58, C1: 40, C2: 28 = 193]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc/hdc2tog over first st and next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc/hdc2tog over next st and next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from *, changing color in line with previous row until 1 st rem, sc in last st, turn.

[XS/S: C2: 21, C1: 32, C3: 46, C1: 32, C2: 22 = 153]

[M/L: C2: 23, C1: 36, C3: 48, C1: 36, C2: 24 = 167]

[XL/2X: C2: 25, C1: 36, C3: 56, C1: 36, C2: 26 = 179]

[3X/4X/5X: C2: 27, C1: 40, C3: 58, C1: 40, C2: 28 = 193]

Rows 3-24 (26, 27, 28):  Repeat Row 2, continuing to change color consistently. Note that for the BACK PANEL, row instructions and stitch counts are the same for all rows. It does not matter whether you end on a RS or a WS row.

Cut C1.

Rows 25-72 (27-78, 28-81, 29-84): Continue to repeat Row 2, replacing C1 with C4 in the relevant sections of each row.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

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Finishing

Block panels to measurements.

Lay panels flat so that the tops of both front panels are aligned with the top of the back panel, and the color blocks are also aligned. 

Seam at shoulders using your preferred seaming method. For example, you can seam on the right side using the mattress stitch or on the wrong side using the whip stitch.

Video Tutorial → Seaming your Crochet Garments

Weave in any remaining ends. All done!

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah