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Black and white never goes out of fashion, right!? I’m no style expert but I do love the simplicity of anything monochrome. I am a bit of a magpie (who incidentally are also black and white!) when it comes to yarn, and find it hard to pick just one colour palette that I like. I over-ordered black and white yarn for my last project (my Two Cushions, One Heart crochet wedding gift) but I was more than happy to have to use it up on this crochet throw pillow 🙂
This crochet throw pillow also provided me with the opportunity to learn a new crochet stitch – the Alpine stitch, which I am just completely in love with. It is easy to learn, quick to work up, and once you are in the swing of things, a perfect “couch project”.
Want the pattern for free? Keep on scrolling! Or, if you wish you can download an inexpensive ad-free, pdf version through Ravelry
Notes for the Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern
Alpine Stitch
The Alpine Stitch pattern is formed by working alternating rows of DC and FPTC+TC (UK) / SC and FPDC+DC (US).
All of the details are in the pattern below but if you would like to go a little more in-depth, then I highly recommend this super, easy-to-follow Alpine Stitch tutorial from Jerica at YarnHookNeedles.
Reverse Double Crochet (UK) / Reverse Single Crochet (US)
The crochet throw pillow is finished with the rdc (UK) / rsc (US), also know as the Crab Stitch. If you need more information on this stitch, you can check out this tutorial by Tamara of Moogly Blog.
Colour Changes
I did two different stripe patterns on each side of the crochet throw pillow. On one side, I alternated colours every two rows. On the other side, I mixed it up a little bit and did bigger blocks of the lighter colour.
- The important thing to note is that you should change colours at the start of your dc (UK)/sc (US) row.
- When changing colours every 2 rows, I simply carried the previous colour up along the side of the work. When I did a bigger block of colour, I cut the yarn and weaved in the ends.
Finishing
I finished each side with a border of DC (UK)/SC (US). I then joined the two sides using the Reverse DC (UK)/Reverse SC (US). This gives a nice ridged edge (not to mention that it eliminates the need for seaming).
Finished Measurements
17 Inches x 17 inches (43 cm x 43 cm) approx. I deliberately made the cushions a little bit under 18” so that when I used an 18” insert the cushions would be nice and plump.
Abbreviations
UK
ch = chain
sk = skip
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
FPtr = front post treble crochet
rdc = reverse double crochet
US
ch = chain
sk = skip
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
FPdc = front post double crochet
rsc = reverse single crochet
Gauge
4”x4” (10cm x 10cm) = 13 stitches and 14 rows in Alpine Stitch pattern (alternating rows of dc/tr (UK) or sc/dc (US))
Supplies
- Crochet hook: 5mm/Size H-8
- Yarn: any Aran weight yarn – I used Stylecraft Special Aran with wool in Starling and Black (816m/892yds per 400g skein; Size 4/Aran/Worsted; 80% Acrylic 20% Wool)
| Colorway | Skeins | Length | |
| COLOUR A | Starling | < 0.5 | 300m/328yds |
| COLOUR B | Black | < 0.5 | 200m/218yds |
| 500m/546yds TOTAL |
- Yarn Needle for weaving in ends
- 18″ x 18″ cushion insert
Pattern
The pattern is given in both US and UK terms. Keep on scrolling or go straight to the pattern in UK terms here or in US terms here.
Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern (UK Terms)
MAKE 2
Row 1: ch 64, 1 tr into 4th chain from hook and into each chain across. First ch 3 counts as a stitch (61 stitches). ch 3 and turn (counts as 1 st).
OR
Row 1: Crochet a chainless foundation row with ch 3 + 60 tc. (61 stitches). ch 3 and turn (counts as 1 st). (If this technique is new to you, I urge you to check out my Chainless Foundation Row tutorial – it really is life-changing!)
Row 2: sk first tr, *FPtr around next tr, tr in next stitch; repeat from * until end of row, your last stitch will be a tr into the top of the starting ch 3 [61 sts], ch 1 and turn (counts as 1 st).
Row 3: sk first tr, dc in each stitch across [ch 1 + 60 dc]. ch 3 and turn (counts as 1 st)
Row 4: sk first dc, *tr in next dc. FPtr around the tr below the next dc. Repeat from * until 2 stitches remain. tr in each of the last 2 dc. ch 1 and turn (counts as 1 st)
Row 5: sk first tr, dc in each stitch across. ch 3 and turn
Row 6: sk first dc, *FPtr around tr below the next dc , tr in next stitch; repeat from *, your last stitch will be a tr into the top of the first dc in Row 5
Row 7-64: Repeat Rows 3-6 until you have completed 64 rows
This should leave you with a perfect square!
Fasten off and weave in any ends.
Border
Start at the bottom right-hand corner (as you are looking at the right side of your work).
Insert hook into the very first chain that you made in Row 1. Pull up a loop and ch 1, then 2 dc into the same stitch. dc evenly up along the right-hand edge of the pillow until you reach the corner. [ch 1 + 2 dc + 64 dc]
3 dc in top right-hand corner. dc across the top edge of the pillow [3 dc + 61 dc].
3 dc in top left-hand corner. dc evenly down the left-hand edge of the pillow [3 dc + 64 dc]
3 dc in bottom left-hand corner. DC across the bottom edge [3 dc + 61 dc].
Fasten off.
Repeat for the second side of the pillow but do not fasten off.
Go to Finishing
Crochet Throw Pillow Pattern (US Terms)
MAKE 2
Row 1: ch 64, dc into 4th chain from hook and into each chain across. First ch 3 counts as a stitch [61 stitches], ch 3 and turn (counts as 1 st)
OR
Row 1: Crochet a chainless foundation row with ch 3 + 60 dc. ch 3 and turn (counts as 1 st). (If this technique is new to you, I urge you to check out my Chainless Foundation Row tutorial – it really is life-changing!)
Row 2: sk first dc, *FPdc around next dc, dc in next stitch; repeat from * until end of row, your last stitch will be a dc into the top of the starting ch 3. ch 1 and turn (counts as 1 st)
Row 3: sk first dc, sc in each stitch across [ch 1 + 60 sc]. ch 3 and turn (counts as 1 st)
Row 4: sk first sc, *dc in next sc. FPdc around the dc below the next sc; repeat from * until 2 stitches remain, dc in each of the last 2 sc. ch 1 and turn.
Row 5: sc in each stitch across. ch 3 and turn (counts as 1 st).
Row 6: Skip first sc. *1 FPdc around dc below the next sc . 1 dc in next stitch; repeat from *, your last stitch will be a dc into the top of the first sc in Row 5.
Row 7-64: Repeat Rows 3-6 until you have completed 64 rows.
This should leave you with a perfect square!
Border
Start at the bottom right-hand corner (as you are looking at the right side of your work).
Insert hook into the very first chain that you made in Row 1. Pull up a loop and ch 1, then 2 sc into the same stitch. SC evenly up along the right-hand edge of the pillow [ch1 + 2 sc + 64 sc] until you reach the corner.
3 sc in top right-hand corner. sc across the top edge of the pillow [3 sc + 61 sc]
3 sc in top left-hand corner. sc evenly down the left-hand edge of the pillow [3 sc + 64 sc]
3 sc in bottom left-hand corner. SC across the bottom edge [3 sc + 61 sc]
Fasten off.
Repeat for the second side of the pillow but do not fasten off.
Finishing
Place the two sides of the pillow together with the wrong sides facing (so you are looking at the right side). Line up the two rows of sc that you did for the border so you are looking at 4 loops.
Starting in the bottom right-hand corner again, join the two sides together by crocheting a rsc through the opposing sc of each border (crochet through both loops on each side, so you are crocheting through 4 loops).
Join 3 sides, then stop and stuff with the cushion insert. Join the last side in the same way. Fasten off and weave in the final end.
Sit back on your new crochet throw pillow, relax and enjoy a hard-earned cup of coffee!
Happy crocheting,
Sarah
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It looks amazing! I think I never used that stitch so I will try that. Thank you for sharing 🙂
Thank you Susi! I absolute love the designs you have on your site, especially the Haekel pullover, I am going to have to make that for one of my kids!