This little crochet zipper pouch is the perfect size for storing crochet hooks, or it would make a cute pencil case, or mini make-up back to pop in your handbag too.

This crochet zipper pouch uses one of my favourite stitches – the moss stitch (a.k.a granite or linen stitch). It is a very simple stitch pattern (so perfect for beginners) but there is just something about the symmetry it creates that makes me unable to stop staring at it!

Yarn
For this little crochet pouch, I decided to use Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. It comes in every colour under the sun (well, 55 to be precise!) so there really is something for everyone. I tend to lean towards neutral, earthy colours so I chose a nice ombre of brown, caramel, cream and white.


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How to get this pattern:
Option 1: Scroll on down to get this pattern for free!
Option 2: Purchase the easy-to-read, print-friendly PDF:

Notes
- This pouch is crocheted from the bottom up in a tube. To finish, the base is sewn shut and a zipper added at the top.
- The pouch is worked in the round. After Round 1, do not join to the start of the round with a sl st, continue to work in a spiral.
- To start your work, you can either chain the required number followed by a row of stitches or you can use the chainless foundation technique.
- To change colour, make the change on the last step of the last stitch of the previous row i.e. with two loops on hook, draw up a loop of the new colour and pull through; colour change made.
- Do not cut yarn after each colour change; float the next colour up on the inside of the pouch when it is needed. As we are going to line the pouch, these floats will not be visible.
- On the last round, you can finish off with a slip stitch or an invisible join. If you need further information on how to do the invisible join, Dedri from lookwhatimade.net has a very clear, detailed tutorial.
Adjustments
- This pattern will work for any weight yarn and corresponding hook; your finished pouch will just be a different size. (As an example, you could use worsted weight yarn with a 5mm hook and follow the same pattern; this will give you a larger pouch).
- You can also adjust the size by making a different number of chains in the foundation round – any even number will work.
- Please note: any adjustments will alter the amount of yarn required.
Finished Measurements
Approx. 7” (w) x 4.75” (h) (18cm x 12cm)
Gauge
4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) = 26 stitches x 27 rows in moss stitch
Materials
Hook: 3.5mm/E-4 crochet hook (I love this Clover Amour one)
Yarn: Approx. 120 yds/105 m of cotton DK weight yarn.
This pattern uses Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137m/125yds per 50g skein; Size 3/DK/Light; 100% Cotton)
Colorway | Skeins | Length required | |
COLOR A | Soft Fudge | < 1 | 34 yds/30 m |
COLOR B | Light Caramel | < 1 | 34 yds/30 m |
COLOR C | Vanilla Cream | < 1 | 34 yds/30 m |
COLOR D | Champagne White | < 1 | 18 yds/15 m |
120 yds/105 m |
Misc.
- Yarn Needle for weaving in ends
- Zipper (approx. 6.5″ or 7” but you can adjust a longer zipper too)
- Sewing Needle & Thread to match Zipper
- Stitch markers
Special Stitches
Moss Stitch (a.k.a. Granite Stitch or Linen Stitch)
For simplicity, this stitch pattern description uses US terms.
Foundation Chain: ch any even number.
Row 1: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in second ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st; repeat from * to end of chain, turn.
Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st; repeat from * to last st, sc in last st, turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 as required.
Abbreviations
US
ch = chain
st = stitch
sp = space
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
fsc = foundation single crochet
UK
ch = chain
st = stitch
sp = space
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
fdc = foundation double crochet
Written Pattern
The pattern is given in both US and UK terms. Keep on scrolling or go straight to the pattern in US terms here or in UK terms here.
Crochet Zipper Pouch Pattern (US Terms)
Round 1:
Using Color A, and leaving a long tail (about 15”), ch 90, sl st to first chain to form a ring.
ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in the sl st, sc in next ch and in each ch around, sl st to top of first sc [90 sts]
OR
Using Color A and leaving a long tail (about 15”), 90 fsc, sl st to top of first st to form a ring [90 sts]
Round 2:
ch 1 (does not count as a st), *ch 1, skip next st, 1 sc in next st; repeat from * until 1 sc and sl st remain, ch 1, sk last sc, 1 sc in top of sl st (do not join to next round with a sl st. Change to Color B on last step of last sc) [90 sts]
Round 3:
Using B, ch 1, sk next st, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp (place stitch marker in first ch-1 sp of this round), *ch 1, sk next st, 1 sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from *, your last st will be 1 sc in the ch-1 sp with the stitch marker. (Change to C on last step of last sc) [90 sts]
Round 4-32:
Repeat Round 3 following the Color Chart below OR using your own color scheme.
Round 33:
*1 sc in next st, 1 sc in ch-1 sp; place stitch marker in first sc, repeat from * around. [90 sts]
Round 34:
sl st in each stitch around, join to top of last sc of Round 33 using a sl st or invisible join [90 sts]

Crochet Zipper Pouch Pattern (UK Terms)
Round 1:
Using Colour A, and leaving a long tail (about 15”), ch 90, sl st to first chain to form a ring.
ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc in the sl st, dc in next ch and in each ch around, sl st to top of first dc [90 sts]
OR
Using Color A and leaving a long tail (about 15”), 90 fdc, sl st to top of first st to form a ring [90 sts]
Round 2:
ch 1 (does not count as a st), *ch 1, skip next st, 1 dc in next st; repeat from * until 1 dc and sl st remain, ch 1, sk last dc, 1 dc in top of sl st (do not join to next round with a sl st. Change to Color B on last step of last dc) [90 sts]
Round 3:
Using B, ch 1, sk next st, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp (place stitch marker in first ch-1 sp of this round), *ch 1, sk next st, 1 dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from *, your last st will be 1 dc in the ch-1 sp with the stitch marker. (Change to C on last step of last dc) [90 sts]
Round 4-32:
Repeat Round 3 following the Colour Chart below OR using your own colour scheme.
Round 33:
*1 dc in next st, 1 dc in ch-1 sp; place stitch marker in first dc, repeat from * around. [90 sts]
Round 34:
sl st in each stitch around, join to top of last dc of Round 33 using a sl st or invisible join [90 sts]
Colour Chart

Finishing
Turn your work inside out. Cut any remaining ends, knot tightly and weave in. (The inside will be covered with a fabric lining so the ends don’t need to be completely invisible)


1. Close the bottom of the pouch
Thread a tapestry needle with the long tail from Round 1.
(If you have used the chainless foundation technique, close up the small gap that remains between the first and last stitch).
Lay the pouch flat and line up the stitches from Round 1 opposite each other. Whip stitch all the way across to close the bottom of the pouch.
Turn the pouch the right way around.

2. Make the lining
Cut your chosen piece of fabric to twice the height of the pouch + a seam allowance of approx. 0.5” on each edge.
So, if your pouch measures 7” x 4.75”, the fabric should measure:
Width: 7 + (0.5 x 2) = 8”
Height: (4.75 x 2) + (0.5 x 2) = 10.5”

Fold the fabric in half (length-ways) and sew the left and right edges along the seam lines. This is the wrong side of the lining.

With the wrong side of the lining still facing you, fold down the top along the hem line (approx. 0.5”).. This will give a neat edge to the top of the lining.
3. Add the zipper

If your zipper is too long, sew a few stitches around the zip to act as a stopper.
With the zipper closed, lay it face down so you are looking at the back of the zipper. Lay the top edge of the lining along the bottom edge of the zipper. (The back of the zipper should face the wrong side of the lining).
Pin in place, and sew the lining and the zipper together using the back stitch.
Open the zipper and repeat for the opposite edge.
4. Putting it all together
Ensure the pouch is turned the right way around.
Close up the zip and insert the zip + lining into the pouch so that you are looking at the right side of the lining.

Pin in place and sew the zip to the top of the pouch using the back stitch. Tuck the ends of the zip behind the lining.
Open the zip and repeat for the opposite edge.
Note: I worked with the crochet side facing me, and sewed under each crochet stitch, rather than over to keep the sewing thread hidden

All done! Admire your handiwork and pop in your favourite bits and bobs.
If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!
Happy crocheting!
Sarah
I really love how your pouch with the moss stitch turned out.
Happy crafting,
Kippi
#kippiathome