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Dream Catcher Cardi – Free Crochet Shrug Pattern

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The Dream Catcher Cardi is a chunky crochet shrug with a gorgeous diamond motif on the back. And it’s a free pattern!

Crochet Shrug Sizing & Fit

This crochet cardigan pattern is written for 4 sizes – XS/S, M/L, XL/2X and 3X/4X.

It is an oversized cardigan so it is very loose fitting. If you would like a more classic fit, you may consider going down a size.

Dream Catcher Cardi - Crochet Shrug Pattern / Ned & Mimi

Cardigan Construction

The main body of this cardigan is created from a rectangle, which you will fold inwards to create the armholes.

Add sleeves and a collar, and you’re done!

The pattern PDF includes a stitch diagram for the center diamond, as well as step-by-step photos to help you turn that diamond into a rectangle :-).

Cocoon Cardigan Inspiration

Can’t decide on a yarn color?

Get inspired with these photos from some of the talented crocheters who tested the Dream Catcher Cardi pattern:

Photo credit: Ana from @lovecozycrochet
Photo credit: Ana from @lovecozycrochet
Photo credit: Steffi from @madewithlovebysteffi
Photo credit: Naomi from @stitchesandbuttonsuk
Photo credit: Ana from @havencrochetdesigns
Photo credit: @asavenuedesigns

What you’ll need to make the Dream Catcher Cardi

For my shrug, I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky which is a #5/Bulky yarn. Any similar weight yarn would work great. The great think about using a bulky yarn like this is that even though the cardigan is an oversized one, it actually works up alot quicker than you might think!

I used a 6.5mm (L-10.5) hook for my cardigan, but you can choose any hook that enables you to meet the correct gauge. (Getting the gauge or tension right before you start is important to ensure that your cardigan ends up the correct size).

Although, as this cocoon cardigan is designed to be very loose-fitting, it is actually pretty forgiving 🙂

More Crochet Patterns

You might also be interested in these other crochet patterns made with chunky yarn:

Dream Catcher Cardi

Free Crochet Shrug Pattern


Pattern Notes

Skill Level

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • st = stitch
  • sp = space
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • blo = back loop only
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • tr = treble crochet
  • 2dc-cl = 2 double crochet cluster
  • 3dc-cl = 3 double crochet cluster
  • dc3tog = double crochet 3 together
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
  • RS = Right Side
  • WS = Wrong Side
  • rem = remaining
  • beg = beginning
  • pm = place marker

Construction

The main body of this cardigan is created from a rectangle, which is worked as follows:

  1. Crochet a square and rotate so that you are looking at it as a diamond shape.
  2. Work extra rows on left and right sides, to add width.
  3. At each side, work decrease rows to finish off each corner and form a rectangle.

Once the rectangle is done, finish off the cardigan as follows:

  1. At left and right sides, fold top and bottom corners inwards so that they meet in the middle.
  2. Create armholes by seaming edges where they meet.
  3. Work sleeves and collar.

Chart & Written Instructions

For the center square, you can either use the Center Square Stitch Chart in the pattern PDF or follow the written instructions in the pattern below.

General Pattern Notes

  • Ch 1 at the start of a sc round does not count as a st.
  • Ch 2 at the start of a decrease row does not count as a st.
  • Ch 3 at the start of a row/round counts as one dc.
  • Ch 4 at the start of a round counts as one dc + ch 1.
  • Ch 5 at the start of a round counts as one tr + ch 1.
  • (ch 2, 2dc-cl) at the start of a row/round counts as a 3dc-cl.
  • Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ).
  • Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each round/row. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round/row.

Special Stitches

Two Double Crochet Cluster (2dc-cl)

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first two loops. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook into same st and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first two loops. [3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Three Double Crochet Cluster (3dc-cl)

Step 1: As for 2dc-cl.

Step 2: As for 2dc-cl.

Step 3: Repeat Step 2. [4 loops on hook]

Step 4: Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.


Finished Measurements

XS/S

To fit bust: 28” – 34” / 72 – 88cm

Rectangle width: 40” / 101.5cm

Cardigan length: 32.5” / 82.5cm

Cardigan width (wrist to wrist incl. sleeves): 56″ / 142cm

M/L

To fit bust: 36” – 42” / 92 – 108cm

Rectangle width: 42.5” / 108cm

Cardigan length: 35” / 89cm

Cardigan width (wrist to wrist incl. sleeves): 58.5″ / 149cm

XL/2X

To fit bust: 44” – 50” / 112 – 128cm

Rectangle width: 45” / 114.5cm

Cardigan length: 37.5” / 95.5cm

Cardigan width (wrist to wrist incl. sleeves): 61″ / 155cm

3X/4X

To fit bust: 52” – 58” / 134 – 148cm

Rectangle width: 50″ / 127cm

Cardigan length: 37.5” / 95.5cm

Cardigan width (wrist to wrist incl. sleeves): 66″ / 168cm


Gauge

9 sts x 7 rows = 4” x 5” / 10cm x 12.5cm measured over dc.


Materials

Hook: 6.5mm (K-10.5) or hook required to meet gauge.

Yarn: Any #5 / Bulky weight yarn.

The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky (136m/149yds per 100g skein; Weight 5/Bulky; 100% Acrylic).

XS/S: 985 yds / 901m (660g)

M/L: 1105 yds / 1010m (740g)

XL/2XL: 1250 yds / 1143m (840g)

3XL/4XL: 1485 yds / 1358m (995g)

Misc.

  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers (4)

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Written Pattern

All Sizes: XS/S (M/L, XL/2XL, 3XL/4XL)

A. CENTER SQUARE

Note: for the following Rounds 1 – 7 you can either use the Center Square Stitch Chart in the pattern PDF, or follow the written instructions here.

ROUND 1: Make a magic circle, ch 3 (counts as one dc, here and throughout), 15 dc in circle, sl st to join to top of ch-3. [16]

ROUND 2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), dc in first st, *ch 1, dc in next st; repeat from * around, ch 1, sl st to join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. [32]

ROUND 3: Sl st to first ch, (ch 2, 2dc-cl) in ch-4 sp (counts as one 3dc-cl), *ch 2, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ch 2, sl st to join to beg 2dc-cl. [48]

ROUND 4: Sl st to first ch, ch 4, dc in ch-2 sp, *ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ch 1, sl st to join to 3rd ch of beg ch-4. [64]

ROUND 5: Sl st to first ch, (ch 2, 2dc-cl) in ch-4 sp,      

ch 3, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp (pm in ch-3 sp to mark corner sp),    

*ch 2, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp] 5 times,

ch 2, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp (pm in ch-3 sp to mark corner sp);

repeat from * 2 more times,

ch 2, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, 3dc-cl in next ch-1 sp] 5 times,

ch 2, sl st to join to beg 2dc-cl. [80]

ROUND 6: Sl st to first ch, ch 5 (counts as 1 tr and 1 ch),

(tr, ch 3, tr, ch 1, tr) in first corner sp (move marker to ch-3 sp just made),      

*ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp, 

[ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp,

ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 3, tr, ch 1, tr) in next corner sp (move marker to ch-3 sp just made);

repeat from * 2 more times,

ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp,

[ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch 1, hdc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, sl st to join to 4th ch of beg ch-5. [96]

Note: for the next 8 (9, 10, 10) rounds, you will turn at the end of each round. On each round, move markers up to each corner space.

ROUND 7 (RS): Ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next st,

(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in first corner sp,

*[dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp] to next corner sp,

(2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner sp;               

repeat from * 2 more times,

[dc in next st, dc in next ch-1 sp] to beg ch-3, sl st to join to top of beg ch-3, turn. [112]

ROUND 8 (WS): Ch 3, *dc in each st to next corner sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in corner sp; repeat from * 3 times, dc in each st to beg ch-3, sl st to join to top of beg ch-3, turn. [128]

ROUNDS 9 – 14 (15, 16, 16):

Repeat previous round. [224 (240, 256, 256)]

Cut yarn and fasten off. Remove all stitch markers.

B. EXTEND WIDTH (RIGHT)

Size M/L only:

With WS facing, join yarn to any corner ch-3 sp.

All other sizes:

With RS facing, join yarn to any corner ch-3 sp.

ROW 1: Ch 2, 2dc-cl in ch-3 sp, dc in each st to next corner ch-3 sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp, dc in each st to next corner ch-3 sp, 3dc-cl in ch-3 sp, turn. [115 (123, 131, 131)]

ROW 2: Ch 2, dc3tog in first 3 sts, dc in each st to next corner ch-3 sp, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in ch-3 sp, dc in each st until 3 sts rem, dc3tog in last 3 sts, turn. [115 (123, 131, 131)]

Repeat previous row 1 (1, 1, 3) times. [115 (123, 131, 131)]

Do not fasten off.

C. TOP RIGHT CORNER

ROW 1: Ch 2, dc3tog in first 3 sts, dc in each st to next ch-3 sp, 3dc-cl in ch-3 sp, turn. [55 (59, 63, 63)]

Note: pm in ch-3 sp – this will mark the starting point for the BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER.

ROW 2: Ch 2, dc3tog in first 3 sts, dc in each st until 3 sts rem, dc3tog in last 3 sts, turn. [51 (55, 59, 59)]

Repeat previous row (12, 13, 14, 14) times. [3 (3, 3, 3)]

Note: each row will decrease stitch count by 4.

LAST ROW: Ch 2, dc3tog in 3 rem sts. [1 (1, 1, 1)]

Cut yarn and fasten off.

D. BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER

Size M/L only:

With RS facing, join yarn to last marked ch-3 sp.

All other sizes:

With WS facing, join yarn to last marked ch-3 sp

ROW 1: Ch 2, 2dc-cl in ch-3 sp, dc in each st until 3 sts rem, dc3tog in last 3 sts, turn. [55 (59, 63, 63)]

ROW 2: Ch 2, dc3tog in first 3 sts, dc in each st until 3 sts rem, dc3tog in last 3 sts, turn. [51 (55, 59, 59)]

Repeat previous row (12, 13, 14, 14) times. [3 (3, 3, 3)]

Note: each row will decrease stitch count by 4.

LAST ROW: Ch 2, dc3tog in 3 rem sts. [1 (1, 1)]

Cut yarn and fasten off. Leave a long tail for armhole seaming.

E. EXTEND WIDTH (LEFT)

Size M/L only:

With WS facing, join yarn to top center ch-3 sp.

All other sizes:

With RS facing, join yarn to top center ch-3 sp.

Repeat as for B. EXTEND WIDTH (RIGHT). 

F. BOTTOM LEFT CORNER

Repeat as for C. TOP RIGHT CORNER.

G. TOP LEFT CORNER

Repeat as for D. BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER.   

ARMHOLES

Lay rectangle flat with WS facing you.

  • On the left hand side, fold the top and bottom corners towards the middle of the rectangle so that they touch.
  • Repeat on the right hand side.
  • Using the long tails from D. and G. above, seam the top and bottom edges where they meet using the mattress stitch.
  • Leave a gap of approx. 5 (5, 6, 6) rows on either side for the armholes.

SLEEVES

With RS of sleeve facing you, join yarn at the seam.

EDGE ROUND: Ch 1 (does not count as a st)`, sc evenly around armhole, sl st to join to beg sc.

Note: you don’t need to be too concerned with the number of stitches in this round; just work evenly all around the armhole.

Ribbed Sleeve

ROW 1: Ch 26, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch until you reach the armhole, sl st to join to next armhole st.

ROW 2: Sl st to next armhole st, turn, sk 2 sl sts, sc (blo) in each st across, turn.

ROW 3: Ch 1, sc (blo) in each st across, sl st to join to next armhole st.

Repeat previous 2 rows until you have worked a row for each armhole st. Note: it doesn’t matter if you end on row 2 or row 3.  

Cut yarn and fasten off. Leave a long tail (for seaming).

Turn cardigan inside out and whip stitch sleeve edges together using the long tail.

Repeat for second sleeve.

COLLAR

Looking at the front of the cardigan, find the armhole seam line on the left hand side. Join yarn to the body opening approx. 6 (6, 8, 8) rows below the seam line.

EDGE ROUND: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc evenly along body opening, sl st to join to beg sc.

Note: as with the sleeves, you don’t need to be too concerned with the number of stitches in this round; just work evenly all along the edge of the body opening. (It is better to have more rather than less stitches – spacing out your stitches too much will cause the body opening to pull in.)        

Mark collar start and end points

Collar start point is the same position as the end of the edge row. Use a stitch marker to mark collar end point on the opposite side of the body opening.

Ensure that you have an even number of stitches between the two marked points (along the top edge of the body opening).   

Ribbed Collar

Collar is worked using the same technique as the ribbed sleeves.

ROW 1: Ch 2, sc in second ch from hook, sl st to join to next edge st. [1]

ROW 2: Sl st to next edge st, turn, sk 2 sl sts, 2 sc (blo) in first st, turn. [2]

ROW 3: Ch 1, 2 sc (blo) in first sc, sc (blo) in next st, sl st to join to next edge st. [3]

ROW 4: Sl st to next edge st, turn. Sk 2 sl sts, sc (blo) in each st across until 1 st rem, 2 sc (blo) in last st, turn. [4]

ROW 5: Ch 1, 2 sc (blo) in first st, sc (blo) in each st to edge, sl st to join to next edge st. [5]

ROWS 6 – 11: Repeat previous 2 rows. [11]

ROW 12: Sl st to next edge st, turn. Sk 2 sl sts, sc (blo) in each st across, turn. [11]

ROW 13: Ch 1, sc (blo) in each st to edge, sl st to join to next edge st. [11]

Repeat previous 2 ROWS until 10 sts remain before marked stitch on the opposite side.     

DEC ROW 1: Sl st to next edge st, turn. Sk 2 sl sts, sc (blo) in each st until 2 sts rem, sc2tog (blo) in last 2 sts, turn. [10]

DEC ROW 2: Ch 1, sc2tog (blo) in first 2 sts, sc (blo) in each st to edge, sl st to join to next edge st. [9]

DEC ROW 3 – 8: Repeat previous 2 ROWS. [3]

DEC ROW 9: Repeat DEC ROW 1. [2]

DEC ROW 10: Ch 1, sc2tog (blo) in rem 2 sts, sl st to join to marked st. [1]

Cut yarn and fasten off.


Finishing

Turn cardigan inside out, and weave in any remaining ends.

Turn the right way around. All done!


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I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah