The Flamingo Tank is a simple summer crochet top with a gorgeous lace feature along the neckline.
This free pattern is written for 9 sizes (XS – 5X), and is a perfect first garment – the back and front panels are identical, there is no shaping involved, and minimal seaming.
Use a lightweight Fingering or Sport weight yarn and you will have a stylish new top for your summer closet before you know it!
How to get this pattern:
Option 1: Scroll on down to get this pattern for free!
Option 2: Purchase the easy-to-read, print-friendly PDF:
Crochet Summer Top Sizing & Fit
This crochet top pattern is written for 9 sizes – XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X and 5X.
The top has a classic fit, with about 2″ – 4″ / 5cm – 10cm of ease added at the bust. Have a look at the sizing table below to choose your size.
Use a #1/Fingering or #2/Sport weight yarn in a cotton or cotton blend for a great drape and a breathable fabric – perfect for summer!
For my top, I used Comfy Fingering – a blend of 75% pima cotton and 25% acrylic. This yarn was very generously sponsored by WeCrochet.
This summer top is a perfect pattern if you are ready for a first crochet garment.
There is no shaping at all, and the front and back panels are identical rectangles. So, once you have made one panel, you can be confident of being able to complete your project :-).
There is also very little seaming – once you have created your two panels, you will seam the shoulders and the sides – that’s it!
Note: the pattern PDF includes a full schematic with detailed measurements (in inches and cm) for the finished top, as well as a handy stitch count table for the lace section).
Summer Top Inspiration
Get inspired with these photos from some of the talented crocheters who tested the Flamingo Summer Top pattern:
What you’ll need to crochet this top
For my top, I used KnitPicks Comfy Fingering, which was very generously provided by WeCrochet for this design. Comfy Fingering is a #1/Fingering weight yarn, and a gorgeous combination of pima cotton for breathability, and acrylic to balance out the weight of the cotton.
Any similar weight yarn would work great.
I used a 3.5mm (E-4) hook for my top, but you can choose any hook that enables you to meet the correct gauge. (Getting the gauge or tension right before you start is important to ensure that the size of your top will turn out as expected).
More Crochet Patterns
You might also like to check out these other crochet patterns:
Free Crochet Summer Top Pattern
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch = chain
- st = stitch
- sp = space
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- fdc = foundation double crochet (see Special Stitches)
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong Side
- rem = remaining
- beg = beginning
- pm = place marker
- This top is worked in two panels (front and back) from the bottom up.
- The front and back panels are identical.
- Shoulders and sides are seamed at the end.
- This top is designed with 2”–4” / 5–10cm of positive ease on the bust.
- The sizes in this pattern are based on the body measurements as laid out by the Craft Yarn Council (https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/woman-size).
- Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making. (This will make your life much easier!)
Print-friendly PDF (available at a low cost)
The print-friendly PDF version of this pattern also includes the following:
- Schematic (with all measurements in inches and cm)
- Step by Step Pictures
- Lace Section Stitch Count Table
General Pattern Notes
- Ch 1 at the start of a single crochet row does not count as a stitch.
- Ch 3 at the start of a double crochet row does count as a stitch. (This means that after you ch 3, you will always skip the first st in the row and work your first dc in the second st.)
- Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ).
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of the row. As there is no shaping in this pattern, the stitch count will remain the same for all rows.
Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)
Please see this photo and video tutorial on how to work the Foundation Double Crochet (fdc) stitch.
|Size||To fit bust||Width||Length|
|XS||28 – 30″ / 71 – 76cm||16.25″ / 41cm||19.5″ / 50cm|
|S||32 – 34″ / 81 – 86cm||18″ / 46cm||20.5″ / 52cm|
|M||36 – 38″ / 91.5 – 96.5cm||20.75″ / 53cm||21″ / 53cm|
|L||40 – 42″ / 101.5 – 106.5cm||22.5″ / 57cm||21.5″ / 55cm|
|XL||44 – 46″ / 111.5 – 117cm||24.25″ / 62cm||21.5″ / 55cm|
|2X||48 – 50″ / 122 – 127cm||26″ / 66cm||22″ / 56cm|
|3X||52 – 54″ / 132 – 137cm||28.75″ / 73cm||22.5″ / 57cm|
|4X||56 – 58″ / 142 – 147cm||30.5″ / 77cm||23″ / 58cm|
|5X||60 – 62″ / 152 – 158cm||32.25″ / 82cm||23″ / 58cm|
18 sts x 14 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm measured over alternating rows of dc/sc.
Hook: 3.5mm (E-4) crochet hook (or hook required to meet gauge).
Yarn: #1/Fingering OR #2/Sport weight yarn in cotton/cotton blend (either weight will work great, as long as you match gauge).
The amounts given here are for KnitPicks Comfy Fingering (218yds/199m per 50g skein; Weight: #1/Fingering; 75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic).
XS: 676 yds / 618m (155g) – 4 skeins
S: 767 yds / 702m (176g) – 4 skeins
M: 907 yds / 829m (208g) – 5 skeins
L: 1003 yds / 917m (230g) – 5 skeins
XL: 1081 yds / 989m (248g) – 5 skeins
2X: 1186 yds / 1084m (272g) – 6 skeins
3X: 1343 yds / 1228m (308g) – 7 skeins
4X: 1456 yds / 1332m (334g) – 7 skeins
5X: 1539 yds / 1407m (353g) – 8 skeins
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers (4)
FRONT & BACK PANELS (MAKE 2)
ALL SIZES: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
ROW 1 (RS): 73 (81, 93, 101, 109, 117, 129, 137, 145) fdc. [73 (81, 93, 101, 109, 117, 129, 137, 145)]
ROW 2 (WS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc in each st across, turn. [73 (81, 93, 101, 109, 117, 129, 137, 145)]
ROW 3: Ch 3 (counts as one dc, here and throughout), dc in second st and each st across, turn. [73 (81, 93, 101, 109, 117, 129, 137, 145)]
ROWS 4 – 47 (47, 49, 49, 49, 51, 51, 53, 53): Repeat previous 2 rows 22 (22, 23, 23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25) more times.
ROW 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each of first 35 (39, 45, 49, 53, 57, 63, 67, 71) dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.
ROW 2 (RS): Ch 3, dc in second sc and each of next 33 (37, 43, 47, 51, 55, 61, 65, 69) sc, (ch 2, sc, ch 2) in ch-3 sp, dc in next sc and each sc to end, turn.
ROW 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc across until 4 dc rem before first ch-2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk (ch-2, sc, ch-2), sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.
ROW 4: Ch 3, dc in second sc and each sc to first ch-3 sp, (ch 2, sc, ch 2) in ch-3 sp, dc in next sc, [(ch 2, sc, ch 2) in next ch-3 sp, dc in next sc] until you have worked into the last ch-3 sp, dc in each sc to end, turn.
ROW 5: Ch 1, sc in each dc across until 4 dc rem before first ch-2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, [ch 3, sk (ch-2, sc, ch-2), sc in next dc] until you have skipped the last ch-2 sp, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.
ROWS 6 – 17 (19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23): Repeat previous 2 rows 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10) times.
You should now have 3 (3, 9, 9, 13, 17, 19, 23, 27) sc on either side of the LACE section.
ROW 18 (20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 24, 24, 24): Repeat LACE ROW 4.
ROW 19 (21, 21, 23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25): Ch 1, sc in each dc to first ch-2 sp, [ch 3, sk (ch-2, sc, ch-2), sc in next dc] until you have skipped the last ch-2 sp, sc in next dc and each dc to end, turn.
To mark neckline width, with RS facing, pm in the following single crochet sts (do not include any ch-3 when counting, just count the single crochets):
From Left Hand Side: pm in 6th (7th, 12th, 13th, 17th, 21st, 24th, 27th, 31st) sc.
From Right Hand Side: pm in 6th (7th, 12th, 13th, 17th, 21st, 24th, 27th, 31st) sc.
ROW 1: Ch 3, dc in second sc and each sc to first ch-3 sp, [3 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next sc] to first marked sc, hdc in marked sc, 3 sc in next 3-ch sp, [ sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp] to second marked sc, hdc in marked sc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, [dc in next sc, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp] until you have worked into the last ch-3 sp, dc in each sc to end, turn.
ROW 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
ROW 3: Ch 3, dc in second st and each of next 12 (16, 18, 22, 26, 30, 36, 36, 40) sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in each of next 41 (41, 49, 49, 49, 49, 49, 57, 57) sts, sc in next st, hdc in next st,
dc in each st to end.
Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving a long tail for shoulder seaming.
Block each panel to measurements before seaming.
Lay panels flat with RS facing you. Using the mattress stitch, seam shoulders along the “dc” sts only.
Seam sides, allowing approx. 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5)” / 16.5 (18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm for the armholes. If you would like a deeper armhole, feel free to adjust this measurement .
Once you have finished seaming, you can turn the top inside out and reinforce the shoulder seams with a row of whip stitches (optional).
Weave in ends.
If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!