Unique Striped Crochet Hat Pattern – Geowave Hat

The Geowave Hat is a striped crochet hat with a really unique texture! And this crochet hat pattern is definitely simpler than it looks.

This hat is crocheted from the bottom up, starting with the ribbing. And the best thing is, once you get the hang of the first row or two, it’s a one-row repeat for most of the hat body. So, it requires just a little concentration at the start, and then you’re good to go 🙂

The crochet pattern is written for 4 sizes, from Baby up to Adult Large, so this is a great pattern to make in bulk for gifts.

What you’ll need to crochet the Geowave Hat

Yarn

Any #4/Medium/Worsted weight yarn will work great for this pattern. For my hat I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran (184m/201yds per 100g skein; Weight 4/Aran; 100% Acrylic).

Some great alternatives (in a selection of different fibres) for your crochet hat include:

• WeCrochet Brava Worsted (100% Premium Acrylic)
• WeCrochet Swish Worsted (100% Fine Superwash Merino Wool)
• Lion Brand Heartland (100% Acrylic)

Hooks

For this hat you will need two different hooks, a smaller one for the ribbing (to ensure a nice, snug fit!) and then a larger one for the body of the hat.

For my hat, I used a 4mm (G-6) crochet hook for the ribbing, and a 5mm (H-8) hook for the body. You can use any hooks that allow you to meet the gauge listed in the pattern.

Other supplies

The hat is worked from the bottom-up in joined rounds. It is a good idea to use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round! You’ll also need a yarn needle to weave in those ends.

How to crochet this unique striped hat

This striped hat is crocheted from the bottom up, using 2 colours of #4/medium/worsted yarn.

Step 1: First, you will crochet the easy single crochet ribbing in a long strip, then fold it in half to seam.

Step 2: Next, you will work the rest of the hat in the round, joining at the end of each round with a slip stitch. This section of the hat might take a little bit of getting used to for the first round or two.

But once you have the hang of the Front Post stitches used to create the “V” shape, you will be able to put the pattern aside for a little while!

Step 3: The final section of the hat is a series of “decrease” rounds, to reduce bulk at the top of the hat, and make it easier to “cinch in.”

Note: the print-friendly PDF version of this pattern also includes a stitch diagram for the entire hat (body and decrease rounds), in addition to the written instructions.

Crochet Hat Sizes

This pattern is written for 4 sizes, as follows:

• Baby: 17″-19″ / 43cm – 48.5cm
• Toddler/Child: 19″-21″ / 48.5cm – 53.5cm
• Adult Small: 21″-23″ / 53.5cm – 58.5cm
• Adult Large: 23″-24″ / 58.5cm – 61cm

As the hat ribbing is quite stretchy, it is a good idea to make your finished hat 1″-3″ / 2.5cm – 7.5cm smaller than your head size.

FREE Crochet Hat Size Chart

For more details how on figure out the hat size that you need to make, I might like to read this post on Crochet Hat Sizes – you can get a free printable Hat Size Chart too!

Striped Hat Inspiration

Can’t decide on your color scheme?

Get inspired with these photos from some of the talented crocheters who tested the Geowave Hat pattern for me:

Finished Measurements

Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Skill Level

Construction

• This hat is crocheted from the bottom up as follows:
  • First, you will work the ribbing in a long strip, then fold in half and seam the edges together.
  • You will work the body of the hat in joined rounds.
  • Finally, you will work some decrease rounds to reduce bulk at the top of the hat, and close up the gap with your yarn needle.

General Pattern Notes

• Ch 1 at the start of each row/round does not count as a stitch.
• The stitch count for each row/round is given in [ ] at the end of the row/round.
• Instructions are written for multiple sizes as follows: Baby (Toddler/Child, Adult Small, Adult Large).
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch counts and rounds that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
• The print-friendly PDF version of this pattern also includes a stitch diagram for body and decrease rounds.

Color Changes

• The hat body is worked in alternate rounds of C1 and C2.
• Change color at the end of a round as follows:
  • With C1, join at the end of the round with a sl st.
  • Yarn over the C2 and pull up a loop.
  • At the back of your work, pull C1 gently downwards and to the right. You are now ready to begin the next round with C2.
• Do not cut yarn between rows; simply float the new yarn up at the back of your work as required for each color change.

Gauge

Ribbing
6 sts x 14 rows = 1.5″ x 4″ / 4cm x 10cm measured over sc (blo) ribbing (with smaller hook).

Body
14 sts x 11 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10cm x 10cm measured over hdc (with larger hook).

Materials

Yarn
Any #4/Medium/Worsted weight yarn.
I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran (184m/201yds per 100g skein; Weight 4/Aran; 100% Acrylic).

Hooks

• Ribbing: 4mm (G-6) crochet hook
• Body: 5mm (H-8) crochet hook

(or hooks required to meet gauge)

Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sp = space
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• C1 = Color 1
• C2 = Color 2
• blo = back loop only
• beg = beginning
• rem = remaining
• dec = decrease
• hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together (see Special Stitches)
• hdc3tog = half double crochet 3 together (see Special Stitches)
• FPtr = Front Post treble crochet
• FPtr/hdc2tog = Front Post treble crochet/half double crochet 2 together (see Special Stitches)

Special Stitches

Front Post Treble Crochet (FPtr)
Step 1: Yarn over twice.
Step 2: Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through two loops 3 times.

Half Double Crochet 2 Together (hdc2tog)
Note: this is a modified hdc2tog in that the first step does not have a “yarn over” as it normally would for a hdc st. This is done to prevent the stitch from “puffing up” too much.

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 2: Yarn over, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. [4 loops on hook]
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

Half Double Crochet 3 Together (hdc3tog)
Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 2: Insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]
Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop. [5 loops on hook]
Step 4: Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops.

Front Post treble crochet/Half Double Crochet 2 tog (FPtr/hdc2tog)
First Leg
Step 1: Yarn over twice.
Step 2: Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through two loops 2 times. [2 loops on hook]

Second Leg
Step 4: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [4 loops on hook]
Step 5: Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

Written Pattern

ALL SIZES: Baby (Toddler/Child, Adult Small, Adult Large)

Ribbing

With C1 and smaller hook, and leaving a long tail for seaming, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [6]
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc (blo) in each st across, turn. [6]
Rows 3 – 54 (63, 72, 81): Repeat Row 2.

Do not fasten off.
Pull up a long loop, tie a loose knot (to prevent your work from unraveling), and remove hook.
Fold ribbing in half and seam edges using the long tail.

Body

Change to larger hook.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), hdc evenly along edge of ribbing, working one hdc for each ribbing row, sl st to join to beg hdc, do not turn. [54 (63, 72, 81)]

Yarn over C2, do not fasten off C1.

Round 2: Ch 1, hdc (blo) in each of first 5 sts, *hdc in each of next 3 sts, hdc (blo) in each of next 6 sts; repeat from * around until 4 sts rem, hdc in each of next 3 sts, hdc (blo) in last st, sl st to join to beg st, do not turn.

Yarn over C1, do not fasten off C2.

Round 3: Ch 1, hdc (blo) in each of first 4 sts, sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made, *hdc (blo) in each of next 4 sts, sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg st, do not turn.

Round 4 – 9 (11, 13, 15): Repeat Round 3, alternating between C2 and C1.

For the decrease rounds, continue to alternate between C2 and C1 (beginning with a C2 round).

Each decrease round will reduce the stitch count by 6 (7, 8, 9) sts.

Decrease Round 10 (12, 14, 16): Ch 1, hdc2tog (blo) in first 2 sts, hdc (blo) in each of next 2 sts, sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made, *hdc2tog (blo) in next 2 sts, hdc (blo) in each of next 2 sts, sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg st, do not turn. [48 (56, 64, 72)]

Decrease Round 11 (13, 15, 17): Ch 1, hdc2tog (blo) in first 2 sts, hdc (blo) in next st, sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made, *hdc2tog (blo) in next 2 sts, hdc (blo) in next st, sk next 2 sts,
FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made; repeat from * around, sl st
to join to beg st, do not turn. [42 (49, 56, 63)]

Decrease Round 12 (14, 16, 18): Ch 1, hdc2tog (blo) in first 2 sts, sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made, *hdc2tog (blo) in next 2 sts, sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg st, do not turn. [36 (42, 48, 54)]

Decrease Round 13 (15, 17, 19): Ch 1, sk first 3 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts, *FPtr/hdc2tog (blo) (working first leg in same st as last FPtr made and second leg in next hdc), sk next 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc in second skipped st and each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around until 1 st rem, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made, sl st to join to beg st, do not turn. [30 (35, 40, 45)]

Decrease Round 14 (16, 18, 20): Ch 1, sk first 2 sts, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc3tog in second skipped st and next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made, *sk next st, FPtr in next st two rows below, sk st behind FPtr just made, hdc3tog in second skipped st and next 2 sts, FPtr in same st as last FPtr made, sk st behind FPtr just made; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg st, do not turn. [18 (21, 24, 27)]

Finishing

Cut yarn (both strands) and fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Turn hat inside out. Weave tail in and out between the stitches of the last row. Pull tail tightly to close up the top of the hat. Secure well with several knots!

Weave in any remaining ends.

Turn hat the right way around.

All done!

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah