Herringbone Free Crochet Fingerless Gloves Pattern

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This free crochet fingerless gloves pattern is perfect for making handmade gifts for family and friends.

The pattern is written for seven different sizes from Toddler to Adult XL, ensuring a snug and cozy fit for everyone. I always have a pair nearby to ensure my hands stay warm while keeping my fingers free for typing, texting, or of course crocheting!

With this easy-to-follow pattern you will learn how to crochet the “herringbone half double crochet stitch”, as well as a unique “knit-look” ribbing. In particular, this ribbing pattern offers a chance to try out a new technique; as well as adding a sophisticated touch to your mittens of course!

And when you’re done might also like to make the matching slouchy crochet beanie pattern!

title plus picture of blue green crochet fingerless gloves on hands

What You Will Need to Crochet These Fingerless Gloves

Yarn

For these easy crochet wrist warmers, you will need a #3/DK/lightweight yarn in your preferred color. Using a lighter weight yarn is great for ensuring a perfect fit, but without any bulk.

For the fingerless gloves pictured I used two different yarns:

  • Off-white: WeCrochet Alpaca Cloud DK in the colorway “Sophia”. This yarn is 100% Baby Alpaca, lightweight and wonderfully soft.
  • Blue/Green: WeCrochet Kindred (which unfortunately has been discontinued).

Yardage will depend on the size that you are making (please see the table in the pattern below for more details).

selection of crochet fingerless gloves in blue-green and cream

Hook

For my fingerless mittens, I used a 4.5mm (US 7) crochet hook – please feel free to use whatever hook size will allow you to match the gauge listed in the pattern.

If you have more stitches than stated for the gauge swatch, you can try a smaller hook size. And if you have less stitches than the gauge in the pattern, you can try a larger hook size.

Struggling with Crochet Gauge?

You’ll love this mini-course and ebook!

Other supplies

You will also need a yarn needle to weave in those ends, and a some stitch markers to keep track of the start of each round, as well as to help with the thumbhole shaping.

selection of crochet fingerless gloves in blue-green and cream

Make a matching hat!

How to Crochet Fingerless Gloves

As with many crochet projects, fingerless gloves can be worked in a variety of different ways: starting from the top down, starting from the wrist, or even side-to-side.

Fingerless gloves require less yarn and less shaping techniques than traditional mittens, making them perfect for less experienced crocheters or anyone looking for a quick and satisfying project.

For this particular pattern, you will work in the round, starting at the cuff and working upwards towards the fingers.

blue green crochet fingerless gloves work in progress
  • First you will work the cuff ribbing in a long strip and then seam the edges to form a “tube”.
  • Next you will work the body of the mitten in continuous rounds, starting from the edge of the ribbing (a stitch marker is essential here!). You will work some increase rounds to accommodate the thumb and hand, and then create a thumbhole by skipping some stitches before continuing on with the top section of the mitten.
  • Finally, you will join a new strand of yarn to the thumbhole and crochet additional rounds to cover the thumb.
blue green crochet fingerless gloves work in progress

Left and Right Mittens

I have designed the pattern with a slight variation for the right and left-handed versions, where the thumb gusset increases and thumbs are positioned on opposite sides. The seam is cleverly placed on the palm, keeping it hidden from view.

crochet fingerless gloves in blue-green on hands

Herringbone Fingerless Gloves

Free Crochet Pattern


Finished Measurements

SizeTo Fit Hand Circumference*Wrist CircumferenceMitten CircumferenceMitten Length (excl. cuff)Cuff
Toddler5.5″ / 14cm5.5″ / 14cm6″ / 15cm3.25″ / 8cm1.25″ / 3.5cm
Child6″ / 15cm6″ / 15cm6.25″ / 15.5cm3.75″ / 9.5cm1.25″ / 3.5cm
Tween6.5″ / 16.5cm6.25″ / 15.5cm6.75″ / 17cm4.75″ / 12cm1.25″ / 3.5cm
S7″ / 18cm6.5″ / 16.5cm7″ / 17.5cm5.25″ / 13cm1.5″ / 4.5cm
M7.5″ / 19cm7″ / 17.5cm7.5″ / 19cm6.25″ / 15.5cm1.5″ / 4.5cm
L8″ / 20.5cm7.5″ / 19cm8″ / 20cm7.25″ / 18cm1.5″ / 4.5cm
XL9″ / 23cm8″ / 20cm9″ / 22.5cm7.75″ / 19.5cm1.5″ / 4.5cm
* Hand circumference measurement should be taken around the widest part of the hand, but excluding the thumb!

Adjustments

To make the mittens longer, work extra rows just before the “Top of Mitten” section. Ensure to end on an odd numbered row.


Pattern Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Skill Level

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • sk = skip
  • sc = single crochet
  • sl st(s) = slip stitch(es)
  • yo-slst = yarn over slip stitch (see Special Stitches)
  • blo = back loop only
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • hhdc = herringbone half double crochet (see Special Stitches)
  • sc2tog = single crochet two together (see Special Stitches)
  • inc = increase
  • beg = beginning
  • rem = remaining
  • pm = place marker
  • RS = Right Side

Construction

  • These mittens are worked in the round from the cuff upwards.
  • Right and Left mittens are different in that the thumb gusset increases and thumbs are on opposite sides. The seams for both mittens will be on the palms, ensuring it is not visible on the outer part.
    • For the Left mitten, increases are made at the start of the round.
    • For the Right mitten, increases are made at the end of the round.
  • Each mitten is worked in 3 sections as follows:
    • CUFF: Work the cuff in rows, then fold in half and seam.
    • BODY: Work the body in rounds, beginning with a round worked into the edge of the ribbing. Do not turn at the end of the Body rounds. You will first work a number of increase rounds until the mitten is wide enough to accommodate the thumb and hand. Next, you will skip a number of stitches to create the thumbhole, and then continue working the top section of the mitten.
    • THUMB: Join yarn to the thumbhole and work additional rounds to cover the thumb.

General Pattern Notes

  • The stitch count for each row/round is given in [ ] at the end of the row/round. 
  • If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous row/round.
  • Ch 1 at the start of a CUFF row does not count as a stitch.
  • BODY rounds are worked continuously i.e. you will not join with a sl st at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the start of each round.
  • Instructions are written for multiple sizes as follows: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)
    • If an instruction does not apply for a particular size, then an “x” is used as a placeholder for that size: e.g. “Sizes x (x, Tween, S, M, L, XL) only” indicates that the next instruction is not worked for sizes Toddler and Child.
  • Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch counts and row/rounds that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).

Gauge

Body: 16 sts x 16 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm measured over alternating rows of sc and hhdc (see Special Stitches).
Ribbing: ​​6 sts x 8 rows = 1″ x 2″ / 3 cm x 5 cm measured over yo-slst BLO (see Special Stitches).


Materials

Yarn

Any #3/DK/Light weight yarn. The amounts given here are for WeCrochet Alpaca Cloud DK in the colorway “Sophia” (123yds/112m per 50g ball; Weight: #3/DK/Lightweight; 100% Baby Alpaca).

Note: the blue-green color pictured in the sample is from the WeCrochet Kindred line, which unfortunately is no longer available. The “Magnus” colorway from the WeCrochet Alpaca Cloud DK line is a good substitute.

SizeYarn requirement (per pair)
Toddler75yds / 69m
Child85yds / 78m
Tween110yds / 101m
S135yds / 123m
M165yds / 151m
L200yds / 183m
XL220yds / 201m

Alternative yarn options:

Hook

4.5mm (US 7) crochet hook (or hook required to meet gauge)

Other Items

  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers x 3

Special Stitches

Yarn Over Slip Stitch (yo-slst)

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Do NOT yarn over, continue to pull the bottom loop on hook through top 2 loops. (You may find it easier to rotate your hook away from you as you pull through).

Herringbone Half Double Crochet (hhdc)

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Pull first loop on hook through second loop (similar to a sl st). [2 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops.

Single Crochet Two Together (sc2tog)

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Herringbone Half Double Crochet Two Together (hhdc2tog)

Step 1: Working into the indicated st, work Steps 1 & 2 of the hhdc st (above). [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Working into the next st, work Steps 1 and 2 of the hhdc st again. [3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.


Written Pattern

LEFT MITTEN

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

1) CUFF

Row 1: Ch 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10), yo-slst in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. [7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9)]

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), yo-slst (blo) in each st across, turn. [7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9)]

Repeat Round 2 until you have a total of 22 (24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 32) rows. Your cuff will measure approximately 5.5″ (6″, 6.25″, 6.5″, 7″, 7.5″, 8″) / 14cm (15cm, 15.5cm, 16.5cm, 17.5cm, 19cm, 20cm) in length (unstretched).

Fold cuff in half and seam edges. I seamed using a row of sl sts, but you can do a whip stitch seam if preferred. Turn inside out – you are now looking at the RS of the mitten.

2) BODY

Wrist

Round 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around edge of ribbing for a total of 23 (25, 26, 27, 29, 31, 33) sts, do not join. [23 (25, 26, 27, 29, 31, 33)]

Note: work one st for each row of ribbing plus one extra st at the seam.

Round 2: Hhdc in each st around, do not join. [23 (25, 26, 27, 29, 31, 33)]

Sizes x (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL) only

Round 3: Sc in each st around, do not join.

Round 4: Repeat Round 2.

Sizes x (x, x, x, M, L, XL) only

Rounds x (x, x, x, 5-6, 5-6, 5-6): Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 once more.

Thumb Gusset

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

Round 3 (5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7) (inc): 2 sc in first st, sc in each rem st around, do not join. [24 (26, 27, 28, 30, 32, 34)]

Round 4 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) (inc): 2 hhdc in first st, hhdc in each rem st around, do not join. [25 (27, 28, 29, 31, 33, 35)]

Rounds 5-8 (7-10, 7-10, 7-12, 9-14, 9-14, 9-16) (inc): Repeat previous two rounds 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4) more times.

Each round increases the stitch count by 1. Stitch count at end of Round 8 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16): 29 (31, 32, 35, 37, 39, 43)

Sizes x (x, Tween, x, x, L, XL) only

Round x (x, 11, x, x, 15, 17) (inc): 2 sc in first st, sc in each rem st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, x, S, M, x, x) only

Round x (x, x, 13, 15, x, x): Sc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, Tween, S, M, L, XL) only

Round x (x, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18): Hhdc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, x, x, x, L, x) only

Round x (x, x, x, x, 17, x): Sc in each st around, do not join.

Round x (x, x, x, x, 18, x): Hhdc in each st around, do not join.

Split for Thumb

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

Round 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 19): Sc in first st, ch 2, sk next 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in each rem st around, do not join. [22 (23, 25, 26, 28, 30, 34) sc / 2 ch]

Pm around the two sc sts before and after the ch(s); we will use these later when working the thumb.

Round 10 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 20): Hhdc in each st and each ch, do not join. [24 (25, 27, 28, 30, 32, 36)]

Round 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 21): Sc in each st around, do not join.

Round 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 22): Hhdc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, Tween, S, M, L, XL) only

Rounds x (x, 17-18, 19-20, 21-24, 23-28, 23-30): Repeat previous two rounds x (x, 1, 1, 2, 3, 4) more time(s).

Note: to make this section of the mitten longer, simply repeat the previous two rounds as required.

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

Round 13 (15, 19, 21, 25, 29, 31): Sc in each st around, do not join.

Round 14 (16, 20, 22, 26, 30, 32): Sl st in each st around, sl st to join to beg st.

Fasten off.

3) THUMB

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

With RS facing, join yarn to side of marked sc on the right of the thumb hole.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc2tog (working first leg in side of marked st and second leg in st BEFORE first skipped st), sc in each of next 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc2tog (working first leg in st AFTER last skipped st and second leg in side of next marked st), sc in base of each ch, do not join. [11 (12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14)]

Round 2: Hhdc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, Tween, S, M, L, XL) only 

Round 3: Sc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, x, x, M, L, XL) only

Round 4: Hhdc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, x, x, x, L, XL) only

Round 5: Sc in each st around, do not join.

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

Round 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6): Sl st in each st around, sl st to join to beg st.

Fasten off.


RIGHT MITTEN

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

1) CUFF

Work as for LEFT MITTEN.

2) BODY

Wrist

Work as for LEFT MITTEN.

Thumb Gusset

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

Round 3 (5, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7) (inc): Sc in each st around until 1 st rem, 2 sc in last st, do not join. [24 (26, 27, 28, 30, 32, 34)]

Round 4 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) (inc): Hhdc in each st around until 1 st rem, 2 hhdc in last st, do not join. [25 (27, 28, 29, 31, 33, 35)]

Rounds 5-8 (7-10, 7-10, 7-12, 9-14, 9-14, 9-16) (inc): Repeat previous two rounds 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4) more times.

Each round increases the stitch count by 1. Stitch count at end of Round 8 (10, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16): 29 (31, 32, 35, 37, 39, 43)

Sizes x (x, Tween, x, x, L, XL) only

Round x (x, 11, x, x, 15, 17) (inc): Sc in each st around until 1 st rem, 2 sc in last st, do not join.

Sizes x (x, x, S, M, x, x) only

Round x (x, x, 13, 15, x, x): Sc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, Tween, S, M, L, XL) only

Round x (x, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18): Hhdc in each st around, do not join.

Sizes x (x, x, x, x, L, x) only

Round x (x, x, x, x, 17, x): Sc in each st around, do not join.

Round x (x, x, x, x, 18, x): Hhdc in each st around, do not join.

Split for Thumb

All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Tween, S, M, L, XL)

Round 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 19): Sc in each st around until 8 (9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11) sts rem, ch 2, sk next 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in last st, do not join. [22 (23, 25, 26, 28, 30, 34) sc / 2 ch]

Pm around the two sc sts before and after the ch(s); we will use these later when working the thumb.

Rounds 10-14 (12-16, 14-20, 16-22, 18-26, 20-30, 20-32): Work as per LEFT MITTEN.

3) THUMB

Work as per LEFT MITTEN.


Finishing

Turn each mitten inside out. Weave in any remaining ends and turn the right way around. 

All done!


If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah