Jasmine Beanie – Top Down Crochet Beanie Pattern in 7 Sizes

The Jasmine Beanie is a cozy top down crochet beanie with a simple textured stitch and an easy, comfortable fit. Find the free pattern below!

This easy pattern uses basic stitches to create a lovel textured fabric with a just the right amount of stretch. So, your finished beanie feel super comfortable but with absolutely no bulk. It looks amazing in a solid color, but it’s so easy to customize with stripes or a pom pom!

The updated pattern includes simplified construction, extra sizes (there are now seven sizes from Newborn to Adult Large) as well as a full video tutorial to guide you through each step.

Where To Get This Pattern

There are two ways to get this free crochet beanie pattern and video tutorial:

How to Make This Crochet Beanie

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Why I Love This Crochet Beanie in Multiple Sizes

One of my favourite things about the Jasmine Beanie is that it is worked from the top down. This makes it easy to try on as you go and to adjust the length if needed, instead of guessing at the end.

Beanies worked from the top down also sit more neatly on the head. Because the shaping happens at the crown first, there’s no extra bulk at the top, which can sometimes happen with bottom-up hats. The result is a snug, comfortable fit that looks clean and smooth.

The stitch pattern is simple and uses basic stitches, but it still adds a nice bit of texture. The fabric has a little stretch, so the beanie feels comfortable to wear without feeling tight. This hat is quite snug-fitting, but the stitch pattern does have tiny little gaps to give some breathability. So, this beanie could easily be worn indoors as a chemo cap.

This pattern is written in seven sizes, which makes it a great option for gifts – feel free to make a beanie for all the babies, kids and adults in your life!

Stripes or Solids – You Choose!

The first beanie I made was in a solid color. But then, after seeing some of the beautiful striped beanies created by my testers (see below), I couldn’t help but make a few striped versions too!

Tips & Tricks for Crochet Success

• Choosing the Right Size: Use the head circumference chart to choose your size rather than age alone, as head sizes can vary quite a bit.
• Adjusting the Fit: This beanie is designed for a snug fit. If you prefer a slouchier style, you can add a few extra rounds to the BODY section before starting the ribbing, or make the next size up.
• Trying It On as You Go: One of the benefits of a top-down beanie is that you can try it on as you work, which makes it much easier to get the length just right.
• Working with Stripes: The stitch pattern looks great in stripes. If using two colors, work the double crochet rounds in one color and the single crochet rounds in a contrasting color. If using three colors, change colors every round. Do not cut yarn between color changes – simply float the unused color up the inside of the beanie.
• Finishing Touches: Take a little extra time to weave in your ends neatly for a clean finish. You can also add a pom pom if you’d like a bit of extra detail.

More Hat Crochet Patterns You’ll Love

Watch How to Make the Jasmine Beanie

If you’d like to crochet along, there’s a full video tutorial that walks through the entire pattern, from the crown to the ribbing. It’s especially helpful if this is your first time making a top-down beanie or using the join-as-you-go ribbing method.

In the video, I make the Baby size, so you’ll want to keep the written pattern handy to follow along for your chosen size.

Check out the full video tutorial to see the exactly how to make this project → Jasmine Beanie Video Tutorial

Jasmine Crochet Beanie – Written Pattern

Finished Measurements

Size	To fit head circumference	Beanie circumference	Beanie height	Ribbing height
Newborn	12″-14″ / 30.5cm – 35.5cm	10″ / 25.5cm	5″ / 12.5cm	1″ / 2.5cm
Baby	14″-16″ / 35.5cm – 40.5cm	12.5″ / 32cm	6″ / 15cm	1″ / 2.5cm
Toddler	16″-18″ / 40.5cm – 45.5cm	15″ / 38cm	6.25″ / 16cm	1″ / 2.5cm
Child	18″-20″ / 45.5cm – 51cm	17.5″ / 44.5cm	7.5″ / 19cm	1.25″ / 3cm
Tween	20″-22″ / 51cm – 56cm	20″ / 51cm	7.5″ / 19cm	1.25″ / 3cm
Adult S	22″-23″ / 56cm – 58.5cm	21″ / 53.5cm	7.75″ / 19.5cm	1.25″ / 3cm
Adult L	23″-24″ / 58.5cm – 61cm	22.5″ / 57cm	8.75″ / 22cm	1.25″ / 3cm

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Skill Level

Easy

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Materials

Yarn

Any #4/worsted weight yarn. The amounts given here are for WeCrochet Heatherly Worsted (218yds/200m per 100g hank; Weight: #4/Medium/Worsted; 80% Acrylic, 20% Merino Wool).

Please note that yarn requirements may vary depending on the characteristics and fibre content of your chosen yarn.

Size	Approximate yarn requirement
Newborn	75 yds / 69m
Baby	100 yds / 91m
Toddler	130 yds / 119m
Child	175 yds / 160m
Tween	200 yds / 183m
Adult Small	215 yds / 197m
Adult Large	260 yds / 238m

Alternative yarn options:

• $ Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran (100% Acrylic)
• $ WeCrochet Brava Worsted (100% Premium Acrylic)
• $$ WeCrochet Swish Worsted (100% Superwash Merino)
• $$ Lion Brand Color Theory (100% Acrylic)
• $$ Lion Brand Heartland (100% Acrylic)
• $$$ Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran (55% Merino Wool 33% Acrylic 12% Cashmere)

Hook

• BODY: 5.5mm (US I-9) or hook required to meet gauge.
• RIBBING: 4.5mm (US 7)

Crochet hooks I love:

Individual Hooks

• $ KnitPro Waves Crochet Hook
• $$ Clover Amour Crochet Hook
• $$$ Furls Streamline Wood Crochet Hook

Hook Sets

• $$ KnitPro Zing Crochet Hook Set
• $$$ Clover Amour Crochet Hook Set

Other supplies

• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker
• Pom pom (optional)

Faux Fur Pom poms

• Hobbii.com Pom poms 
• Crochet.com Faux Fur Pom poms
• Rico Faux Fur Pom poms

DIY Pom pom makers

• Addi Pom pom Maker Set
• Crochet.com Pom pom Maker Set
• Hobbii.com Pom pom Maker Set

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Abbreviations (US Terms)

• beg = beginning
• BLO = back loop only
• ch = chain
• ch-# sp = chain space, # denotes number of chains
• dc = double crochet
• inc = increase
• mc = magic circle
• pm = place marker
• rem = remaining
• sc = single crochet
• sk = skip
• sl st(s) = slip stitch(es)
• sp = space
• st(s) = stitch(es)

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Pattern Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Construction

This beanie is worked from the top down as follows:

• Begin with a magic circle, and work increase rounds until you reach the required stitch count for the size you are making.
• Crochet the rest of the beanie body without increasing.
• Work the ribbing and and attach to the body using the “join-as-you-go” method.

General Pattern Notes

• The stitch count for each row/round is given in brackets [ ] at the end of the row/round. For CROWN and BODY rounds, the stitch count includes chains within the round.
• If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous row/round.
• CROWN & BODY:
  • Work in joined rounds; at the end of each round, join with a sl st to the beg st. Do not turn, continue working the next round in the same direction.
  • Ch 1 at the start of a double crochet (dc) round does not count as a stitch.
  • For a neater seam, there is no “ch 1” at the start of single crochet rounds. Pm in first st to mark the beginning of the round. Move marker up on each subsequent round.
• RIBBING: Ch 1 at the start of a row does not count as a st.

Size Notes

• Instructions are written for seven sizes as follows: Newborn (Baby, Toddler, Child, Tween, Adult S, Adult L)
• If an instruction does not apply for a particular size, then an “x” is used as a placeholder for that size e.g. “Sizes x (x, Toddler, Child, Tween, Adult S, Adult L) only” indicates that the next instruction is not worked for the Newborn and Baby sizes.
• When choosing a size, refer to the size table rather than age alone – head sizes can vary quite a bit.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch counts and row/rounds that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).

Adjustments

This beanie is designed for a snug fit. If you prefer a slouchier style, consider making a size up, and/or adding extra rounds to the BODY section before beginning the RIBBING.

Color Changes

The stitch pattern used for this beanie looks great in a solid color or stripes.

• If using two colors, work “dc” rounds in one color and “sc” rounds in a contrasting color.
• If using three colors, change colors every round.

If working in stripes, change colors as follows:

• With working yarn, finish round as normal.
• Keeping working yarn to the back of your work, yarn over new color and pull through.
• Pull gently on previous color to pull the new color into the correct starting position for the next round.
• With the new color, work next round as per pattern.

Do not cut yarn in between color changes, simply float the next color up on the inside of your beanie.

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Gauge

BODY: 16 sts x 13 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10cm x 10cm measured over pattern (worked in the round).

RIBBING: ​​4 sts x 8 rows = 1″ x 2″ / 3cm x 5cm measured over sc BLO.

Note: as this beanie is worked from the top down, it may be easier to check your gauge by measuring your circle as you go. After 5 rounds, your circle will measure approx. 4” / 10cm across.

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Written Pattern

CROWN

All Sizes: Newborn (Baby, Toddler, Child, Tween, Adult S, Adult L)

Round 1: With larger hook, make a magic circle (mc), ch 1 (does not count as a st), dc 10 (10, 12, 10, 10, 12, 10) times in circle, sl st to join to beg dc, pull tail gently to close circle. [10 (10, 12, 10, 10, 12, 10)]

Note: pm in first st to mark the beginning of the round. Move marker up on each subsequent round.

Round 2 (inc): Working over sl st just made, sc in sp between ch-1 and first dc, ch 1, sk first dc, sc in sp between skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next dc, *sc in sp between skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next dc; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg sc. [20 (20, 24, 20, 20, 24, 20)]

Round 3 (inc): *(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg sc. [30 (30, 36, 30, 30, 36, 30)]

Round 4 (inc): *(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [ sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg sc. [40 (40, 48, 40, 40, 48, 40)]

Round 5: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2 dc in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to join to beg dc. [40 (40, 48, 40, 40, 48, 40)]

Sizes x (Baby, Toddler, Child, Tween, Adult Small, Adult Large) only

Round 6 (inc): Working over sl st just made, sc in sp between ch-1 and first dc, ch 1, sk first two dc, sc in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next two dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next two dc, *[ sc in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next two dc] three times, sk next two dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next two dc; repeat from * until two dc rem, sc in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk last two dc, sl st to join to beg sc. [x (50, 60, 50, 50, 60, 50)]

Sizes x (x, x, Child, Tween, Adult Small, Adult Large) only

Round 7 (inc): Ch 2 (first ch does not count as a st, second ch counts as ch-1), [ sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *[ sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1] four times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * until two ch-1 sp rem, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last ch-1 sp, sl st to join to beg ch-2 sp. [x (x, x, 60, 60, 72, 60)]

Round 8 (inc): Sc in join sp, ch 1, [ sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *[ sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1] five times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * until two ch-1 sp rem, [ sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, sl st to join to beg sc. [x (x, x, 70, 70, 84, 70)]

Round 9: Repeat Round 5. [x (x, x, 70, 70, 84, 70)]

Sizes x (x, x, x, Tween, x, Adult Large) only

Round 10 (inc):Working over sl st just made, (sc, ch 1, sc) in sp between ch-1 and first dc, ch 1, sk next two dc, [ sc in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next two dc] six times, *(sc, ch 1, sc) in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next two dc, [ sc in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next two dc] six times; repeat from * around, sl to to join to beg sc. [x (x, x, x, 80, x, 80)]

Size x (x, x, x, x, x, Adult Large) only

Round 11 (inc):*(sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [ sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] seven times; repeat from * around, sl to to join to beg sc. [x (x, x, x, x, x, 90)]

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BODY

Sizes x (Baby, Toddler, x, Tween, x, x) only

Round x (7, 7, x, 11, x, x): Ch 2 (first ch does not count as a st, second ch counts as ch-1), *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * until one ch-1 sp rem, sc in last ch-1 sp, sl st to join to beg ch-2 sp. [x (50, 60, x, 80, x, x)]

Sizes x (Baby, Toddler, x, Tween, x, Adult Large) only

Round x (8, 8, x, 12, x, 12): Beginning in join sp, sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg sc. [x (50, 60, x, 80, x, 90)]

Round x (9, 9, x, 13, x, 13): Repeat Round 5. [x (50, 60, 70, 80, 84, 90)]

All Sizes: Newborn (Baby, Toddler, Child, Tween, Adult S, Adult L)

Round 6 (10, 10, 10, 14, 10, 14): Working over sl st just made, sc in sp between ch-1 and first dc of previous round, ch 1, sk next 2 dc, *sc in sp between last skipped dc and next dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc; repeat from * around, sl to to join to beg sc. [40 (50, 60, 70, 80, 84, 90)]

Round 7 (11, 11, 11, 15, 11, 15): Ch 2 (first ch does not count as a st, second ch counts as ch-1), *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * until one ch-1 sp rem, sc in last ch-1 sp, sl st to join to beg ch-2 sp. [40 (50, 60, 70, 80, 84, 90)]

Round 8 (12, 12, 12, 16, 12, 16): Sc in join sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg sc. [40 (50, 60, 70, 80, 84, 90)]

Round 9 (13, 13, 13, 17, 13, 17): Repeat Round 5. [40 (50, 60, 70, 80, 84, 90)]

Rounds 10-13 (14-16, 14-17, 14-20, 18-20, 14-21, 18-24): Repeat previous four rounds until the required number of rounds is reached. You may finish on any round of the repeat.

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RIBBING    

All Sizes: Newborn (Baby, Toddler, Child, Tween, Adult S, Adult L)

Work the ribbing perpendicular to the hat body, joining to the final BODY round as you go.

With smaller hook, ch 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, sl st to join to next BODY st, turn.

[4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5)]

Row 2: Sk sl st just made, sc BLO in each st across until one st rem, sc (both loops) in last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc BLO in each st across, sl st in each of next two BODY sts, turn.

Row 4: Sk two sl sts just made, sc BLO in each st across until one st rem, sc (both loops) in last st, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have worked all around the body of the hat.

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Finishing

Seam Ribbing

Seam Ribbing edges together using your preferred seaming method, such as:

• Whip stitch seam or slip stitch seam on the wrong side
• Mattress stitch seam on the right side

(I chose to slip stitch the edges together on the wrong side.)

Fasten off. Weave in any remaining ends.

Add a pom pom (optional)

You can complete the look of your beanie by securing a pre-made, faux-fur pom pom or creating your own using some yarn and a pom pom maker. Make sure to secure the pom pom well to the top centre of the beanie. (See Materials above for links to pre-made pom poms and pom pom makers).

All done!

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If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah