How good are you at telling the difference between knit and crochet? Pretty good I’m guessing! Still, I think this knit-look crochet hat might just make you look twice 🙂 It is 100% crochet, but it’s crochet that looks like knitting!
This hat is crocheted from side to side. The top of the hat tapers inwards due to skipped stitches on alternate rows (there are plenty of photos in the pattern to help you out!). Having the top of the hat narrower than the bottom means there is less of a gap to close up when it comes to seaming and cinching in at the top.
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Materials for your Knit-Look Crochet Hat
This hat pattern calls for between 130-210 yds/120-200m of #4/medium/worsted weight yarn, depending on the size you are making. I decided to add a contrasting strip of color to the brim of the hat, but if you don’t fancy the color change you can just as easily use all one color and it would still look great.
I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran which is available in over 50 shades so you are sure to find something that you like.
I used a 5mm/H-8 crochet hook for my hat, but as the hat is crocheted entirely with slip stitches, you might find it a little more comfortable to go up a hook size. You can read a little more about finding the right hook size for you in the Notes below.
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Please read through the entire pattern before beginning as this will give you a much clearer picture of how the hat is constructed.
- This hat is crocheted from side to side and seamed at the end.
- At the top of the hat you will skip stitches on alternate rows; this tapering will give the top of the hat a more rounded shape at the end.
- The hat has extra length to allow you to fold up the brim once finished.
Slip Stitch Ribbing
- The hat is crocheted entirely using sl st ribbing,which is very, very stretchy; if you feel that the hat is not wide enough don’t worry, it will stretch a lot!
- Try to maintain a really loose tension when crocheting, it should be very easy to work into each sl st. If you are finding it very difficult after a couple of rows then you are probably crocheting too tightly and might even need to go up a hook size.
- Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.
- The stitch count for each row/round is given in [ ] at the end of the row/round.
- Instructions are given for the smallest size, with all larger sizes given in ().
The pattern includes steps on how to change to Color 2 for the tip of the brim. If you wish to crochet the hat using one color you can disregard these steps.
Toddler (to fit head cirumference: 18″-19″)
Hat Circumference: 13″, Hat Height: 9″
Child (to fit head cirumference: 19″-20″)
Hat Circumference: 15″, Hat Height: 9.5″
Adult Small (to fit head cirumference: 21″-22″)
Hat Circumference: 17″, Hat Height: 10.5″
Adult Medium (to fit head cirumference: 23″-24″)
Hat Circumference: 19″, Hat Height: 10.5″
19 stitches x 24 rows (or 12 visible rows*) = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm) in sl sts
*each visible row on the hat surface is actually made up of 2 rows of sl sts – for this pattern it is much easier to count the visible rows rather than the actual rows
Hook: 5mm/H-8 (or any hook that allows you to meet gauge and to crochet the slip stitch ribbing comfortably (see Notes above))
Yarn: Any Aran/Worsted/#4 weight yarn
The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran (184m/201yds per 100g skein; Weight 4/Aran; 100% Acrylic)
Toddler: 131 yds/120m (65g)
Child: 157 yds/144m (78g)
Adult Small: 197 yds/180m (98g)
Adult Medium: 219 yds/201m (109g)
Misc: Yarn Needle
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Abbreviations (US Terms)
ch = chain
st = stitch
sp = space
sl st = slip stitch
blo = back loop only
C1 = Color 1
C2 = Color 2
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
ALL SIZES (TODDLER, CHILD, ADULT-Small, ADULT-Med)
If using one color: ch 44 (46, 51, 51)
If using two colors:
Using C1, ch 38 (40, 45, 45), yarn over C2 and crochet the last 5 chs with C2 [44 (46, 51, 51) chs]
Using C2, sl st (blo) in second ch from hook and in each of next 2 chs. For the 4th sl st, insert hook into the back loop of the next ch as normal but yarn over C1 instead of C2 and pull through (color change made).
Continue to sl st (blo) in each ch until 3 chs remain, leave these last 3 chs unworked, turn [40 (42, 47, 47)]
Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sl st (blo) in each st across until you reach the last C1 sl st. Insert hook as normal into this sl st, but yarn over C2 and pull through (color change made), sl st (blo) into remaining 4 sts, turn [40 (42, 47, 47)]
Ch 1, sl st (blo) in each of next 3 sts, again changing to C1 on the 4th st, continue to sl st (blo) in each st until 3 sts of the previous row remain, leave these last 3 sts unworked, turn [37 (39, 44, 44)]
Ch 1, sl st (blo) in each st across (changing to C2 on the last st of C1), turn [37 (39, 44, 44)]
Ch 1, sl st (blo) in each st across (changing to C1 on the 4th st) until you reach the end of the previous row, continue to sl st (blo) into the skipped sts from ROW 2 and ROW 1, turn [43 (45, 50, 50)]
Ch 1, sl st (blo) in each st across (changing to C2 on the last st of C1), turn [43 (45, 50, 50)]
Ch 1, sl st (blo) in each st across (changing to C1 on the 4th st) until 3 sts of the previous row remain, leave these last 3 sts unworked, turn [40 (42, 47, 47)]
Repeat ROW 2 [40 (42, 47, 47)]
Repeat ROW 3 [37 (39, 44, 44)]
Repeat ROW 4 [37 (39, 44, 44)]
Repeat ROW 5 [43 (45, 50, 50)]
Repeat ROW 6 [43 (45, 50, 50)]
ROWS 13 – 78 (90, 102, 114):
Repeat ROWS 7-12
Cut and fasten off both C1 and C2 but leave a long tail on each.
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Lay the hat flat with the Right Side (RS) facing you.
Note: if you are not sure which is the RS and which is the WS, when you lay the hat flat to loop at the RS, the starting chain will be in the top right.
Fold the left and right edges of the hat to meet in the middle; you are now looking at the Wrong Side i.e. the inside of the hat
Starting at the brim join the 2 edges together using the mattress stitch.
Note: The mattress stitch is worked on the side of your work that will be visible, not the part that will be hidden
This section of the brim will be folded upwards once your hat is finished, so you are seaming the part of the brim that will be visible (even though technically this is still the WS of your work)
- The row closest to you is the very last row that you worked, and the row opposite is the foundation chain
- When working into the row closest to you, you will need to tilt the edge slightly towards you to ensure that you are stitching into the last row (and not the second last row)
Stop stitching after about 3.5 inches.
Turn the hat the right way around and continue to join the edges using the mattress stitch (you are now working on the Right Side i.e. the outside of the hat).
Once you have joined the edges, turn the hat inside out again.
At the top of the hat, weave the tail in and out between the rows to close up the gap.
Pull tightly and secure the top with several more whip stitches.
Weave in the rest of the tail.
Add a pom pom if you wish 🙂
Turn hat the right way around.
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I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!