Modern Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow – Free Pattern

The modern Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow is a classic piece that you can have in your home, year after year, even if your home décor changes!

I am thrilled with how this crochet pillow turned out – I really love the stylish and timeless look and feel.

The pillow is crocheted using the moss stitch, worked diagonally to give a gorgeous ‘woven’ look.

Crochet Wall Hanging Option

This pattern also creates a gorgeous wall hanging if you don’t feel called to make a pillow 🙂 While I don’t have instructions for the wall-hanging bit, if you need some inspiration, you can see some photos below taken by my amazingly creative testers.

Pillows are one of my favorite things to crochet; you can’t get an easier shape to make than a square, they work up quickly AND they’re functional as well as pretty. So many boxes ticked!

You might also like these other crochet pillows and crochet gift ideas:

Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow – Free Pattern

JOY Jar Covers – Free Christmas Crochet Pattern

Crochet Lavender Bags | Free Pattern

Bunny Wall Hanging | Free Crochet Pattern

Yarn for this Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow

For this crochet pillow I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK which is available in over 50 shades so you are sure to find something that you like. I went for neutral muted shades of white and grey as I wanted a color palette that wouldn’t date.

Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

This pattern is for the front panel of a pillow cover only. There are instructions at the end on how to attach the panel to a fabric pillow cover.

Wall hanging option: if you don’t want to make a pillow cover this pattern also makes a lovely wall hanging. While I don’t have instructions on how to do this, there are some photos above for inspiration.

Construction

• The pillow cover is crocheted from the bottom up, starting with a small triangle shape which then increases in size as you add rows.
• Once the required width is reached stop increasing at the sides.
• Once the required height is reached, you stop increasing at the top, and the fill in the 2 corners to create a square.

Written pattern notes

• The stitch count for each row is given in [] at the end of the row. If no stitch count is given then the count is the same as for the previous row.
• Ch 1 at the start of a row does not count as a stitch.

Color changes

• When changing color for a full row, switch to the new color on the last yarn over at the end of the previous row.
• When changing color mid-row, always make the change on the ‘ch 1’ part of the moss stitch pattern (Please see pattern below for pictures on how to do this).

Chart & Table

As well as the written pattern, the PDF pattern also includes a full chart as well as a handy table of stitch counts for each row. Once you get into the rhythm of the pattern, you might find it easier to follow the chart and table, especially for rows where the pattern doesn’t change.

Finished Measurements

Finished crochet panel is 17.5” x 17.5” (to fit an 18” x 18” pillow insert)

Gauge

23 stitches x 23 rows in moss stitch = 4” x 4”

If your gauge is out by a stitch or 2 it won’t make any difference to the pattern, you will just end up with a slightly smaller/larger finished piece. It should still be able to fit an 18” pillow insert.

Materials

Hook: 4mm (G/6) or hook required to meet gauge

Yarn: Any DK/#3/Light weight yarn

The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137m/125yds per 50g skein; Size 3/DK/Light; 100% Cotton)

Color 1: Champagne White – 350yds – 100g – 2 skeins

Color 2: Stormy Grey – 70 yds – <50g – 1 skein

Yarn note: This pattern will work equally as well with a worsted weight/#4 yarn and will give you a finished piece of approx. 24” x 24”.

Misc:

• Cushion Cover (approx. 18” x 18”)
• Cushion Insert (18” x 18”)
• Yarn Needle & Stitch markers

Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch = chain

st = stitch

sp = space

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

C1 = Color 1

C2 = Color 2

Special Stitch

Moss Stitch (aka Granite Stitch or Linen Stitch)

For simplicity, this stitch pattern description uses US terms.

Foundation Chain: ch any even number.

ROW 1: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in second ch from hook, *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st; repeat from * to end of chain, turn.

ROW 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st; repeat from * to last st, sc in last st, turn.

ROW 3: ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * to last 2 sts, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st, turn.

Repeat ROWS 2 and 3 as required.

Written Pattern

ROW 1 (RS): Using C1, create a magic circle, ch 1 (does not count as a st), (sc, ch 2, sc) in circle, pull to close circle, turn [4]

ROW 2 (WS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc in first st, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in last st, turn [8]

ROW 3: ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last st, turn [12]

ROW 4: ch 1, sc in first st, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until one st remains, ch 1, sc in last st, turn [16]

ROW 5: Change to C2, repeat ROW 4 [20]

ROW 6: Repeat ROW 4 [24]

ROWS 7-10: Using C1, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 10 = 40 sts]

ROWS 11-12: Using C2, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 12 = 48 sts]

ROWS 13-16: Using C1, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 16 = 64 sts]

ROWS 17-18: Using C2, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 18 = 72 sts]

ROWS 19-22: Using C1, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 22 = 88 sts]

ROWS 23-24: Using C2, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 24 = 96 sts]

ROWS 25-28: Using C1, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 28 = 112 sts]

ROW 29 (RS): Using C1, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 8 times, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 18 sts remain, change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 8 times, ch 1, sc in last st, turn [116]

ROW 30 (WS): Using C1, ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 9 times, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 20 sts remain, change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 9 times, ch 1, sc in last st, turn [120]

ROWS 31-33: Using C1, repeat ROW 4 [ROW 33 = 132 sts]

ROW 34 (WS): Ch 3, sk first sc, sc in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until one st remains, DO NOT ch 1, hdc in last st, turn [135]

Begin Decrease at Both Sides

From this point onwards, you will introduce C2 in the middle of the row, rather than alternating between C1 & C2 for full rows.

ROW 35 (RS): Using C1, ch 2 (first ch does not count as a st, here and throughout), sk 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 15 times, just before the next ch, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 17 times, using a new bobbin (a couple of yards in length), change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-3 sp, sk last st, sc in ch-3 sp, turn [134]

ROW 36 (WS): Using C1, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 15 times, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 17 times, change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, sk last st, sc in ch-2 sp, turn [134]

ROW 37: Using C1, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, sk last st, sc in ch-2 sp, turn [134]

ROWS 38-40: Repeat ROW 37 [134]

ROW 41: Using C1, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 18 times, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 14 times, change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, sk last st, sc in ch-2 sp, turn [134]

ROW 42: Repeat ROW 41 [134]

ROWS 43-46: Repeat ROW 37 [134]

ROW 47: Using C1, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 21 times, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 11 times, change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, sk last st, sc in ch-2 sp, turn [134]

ROW 48: Repeat ROW 47 [134]

ROWS 49-52: Repeat ROW 37 [134]

ROW 53: Using C1, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 24 times, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 8 times,  change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, sk last st, sc in ch-2 sp, turn [134]

ROW 54: Repeat ROW 53 [134]

ROWS 55-58: Repeat Row 37 [134]

ROW 59: Still using C1, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 27 times, change to C2, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you reach the corner ch-2 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] 5 times, change back to C1, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, sk last st, sc in ch-2 sp, turn [134]

ROW 60: Repeat ROW 59 [134]

Cut and fasten off C2 only.          

ROWS 61-68: Repeat Row 37 [134]

Right-Hand Corner Shaping

Continue to decrease at the right-hand side and also begin to decrease along the top edge.

ROW 69 (RS): Using C1, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the corner ch-2, do not ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in corner ch-2 sp, turn [65]

ROW 70 (WS): Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until you 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, do not ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in turning ch-2 sp, turn [63]

ROWS 71-98: Repeat ROW 70 [ROW 98 = 7]

ROW 99: Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, sk 1 st, sc in turning ch-2 sp, turn [5]

ROW 100: Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, sk 1 st, sc in turning ch-2 sp, turn [3]

ROW 101: ch 1, sk 2 sts, sc in ch 2 sp [1]

Cut and fasten off C1.

Left-Hand Corner Shaping

Start at the center ch-2 sp, begin to decrease along the top edge, while continuing to decrease at the left-hand side.

ROW 1: With RS facing and using C1, insert hook into corner ch-2 sp and pull up a loop, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, do not ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in turning ch-2 sp, turn [65]

ROW 2: Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp] until 1 st remains before the turning ch-2 sp, do not ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in turning ch-2 sp, turn [63]

ROWS 3-30: Repeat ROW 2 [ROW 30 = 7]

ROW 31: Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, sk 1 st, sc in turning ch-2 sp, turn [5]

ROW 32: Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in ch-1 sp, sk 1 st, sc in turning ch-2 sp, turn [3]

ROW 33: ch 1, sk 2 sts, sc in ch 2 sp [1]

Cut and fasten off C1.

Star (optional)

I used this star pattern but you easily use another one if you find one that you like! https://www.maggiescrochet.com/pages/tiny-star-free-crochet-pattern

FINISHING

1) Blocking

Weave in any ends, and make sure that you have tightly knotted any mid-row color changes at the back of the panel.

Block the finished crochet panel to smooth out any kinks and make sure that it is a perfect square.

2) Prepare the pillow cover

While your crochet panel is being blocked, prepare the pillow cover so that you can easily attach the crochet panel to it.

Thread a needle with any thread that will blend easily with your pillow cover and crochet panel.

Start at any corner of the pillow cover and work from left to right.

Work a series of back stitches along the seam line (where the front and back panels of the pillow cover meet).

Your stitches do not need to be perfect! Just keep them as close to the seam line as possible and make sure that they are large enough for you to be able to fit a crochet hook through them.

3) Attach Crochet Panel to Cushion Cover

Lay the crochet panel on top of the pillow cover and pin in place.

Start at the bottom right-hand corner.

ROUND 1:

Using C1, insert hook through the corner st of your crochet panel AND the corner st that you sewed into the pillow cover.

­Pull up a loop and ch 1, sc 3 times into the same st, making sure to also pick up the sewn st.

Continue to sc along the right-hand edge of the crochet panel, all the time picking up your sewn stitches to attach your crochet and pillow cover together.

At each corner, sc 3 times into the corner st. Join to the first st with a sl st [276]

ROUND 2:

Work 1 sl st into each sc, joining to the start of the round with a sl st [276]

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Using a yarn needle bury the tail on the inside of the pillow cover. Place your pillow insert into the pillow cover.

All done!

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah