
I am honored and humbled to include the Pinky Promise Crochet Hat pattern in the 2019 Crochet Cancer Challenge hosted by Sweet Potato 3. The goal of this challenge is simple:
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and so I decided to design my hat in support of breast cancer sufferers and survivors. I daresay there isn’t a woman out there who doesn’t have a mother/aunt/sister/daughter/friend who hasn’t been affected by breast cancer.
My Pinky Promise hat is dedicated to my good friend Alice who was diagnosed with breast cancer at the unbelievably young age of 35. Alice and I both had babies within a couple of days of each other and it was a complete shock for her to be diagnosed with breast cancer while still running around after a toddler. Luckily, she caught it early and is now well on her way to a full recovery. Through it all she has been a pillar of strength and positivity, she is without a doubt one of the most inspiring women that I know.
As part of the 2019 Crochet Cancer Challenge you can get a copy of the Pinky Promise Hat for FREE on Ravelry until October 19. Use the code CC2019 at checkout; please make sure the discount applies before you order. After October 19, the PDF pattern will be just $1 for the entire month of October using the same code – CC2019.
If you download a copy of the pattern, it is your PLEDGE to make at least ONE hat to donate to a local Cancer Center and/or patient by the end of 2019. To make a PLEDGE, get your copy of the pattern HERE (remember to use the code CC2019 before you place your order!)
Use #CrochetCancerChallenge
To help spread the word about the Crochet Cancer Challenge we need your help. Please make your hats from the designs and post to your social media outlets. Use #CrochetCancerChallenge when posting on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Twitter or anything else. Also, tag the designers who gave you the pattern to use. We all love a little love on social media and may even share your project on our page.
About the Pinky Promise Hat
The Pinky Promise hat was pretty easy to name. First of all, well, it’s pink! Full marks for originality to me! Then, as I was designing the twist on the brim, it dawned on me that the two twist sections looked kind of like two interlinked pinky fingers. Perfect!
The Pinky Promise Crochet Hat has a slightly slouchy fit, thanks to an extra long brim and a cinched in crown. I didn’t add a pom pom but you absolutely could and it would look amazing!
I think the twist in the brim really gives this crochet hat a little something extra. And let me tell you, this baby took me a while (ok, more than a while) to figure out. I’m so happy that I stuck with it though because I really think it that it gives the hat a unique twist – pun absolutely intended!
For this crochet hat pattern, I used a simple DK weight, acrylic yarn. The hat is a perfect Autumn accessory, not thick enough to give you a sweaty head (yuck!) but warm enough to keep the chills out π

The hat is worked from the bottom up; first you crochet the brim lengthways and join it to create the ‘twist’, then the crown of the hat is done with a simple alternating dc/sc pattern.
The only tricky part is folding over the brim to create the twist – I have included as many photos as I could and numbered the stitches to indicate the sections that need to be joined together. I hope I have made it as clear as possible, but if you have any questions at all, please don’t hesitate to ask; I am more than happy to help.

Scroll on down to get this pattern for free!
OR
You can purchase an inexpensive ad-free PDF through Ravelry.
Remember that the PDF is free through Oct 19, and then just $1 for the rest of Oct using the code CC2019.
Notes (please read before starting!)
- The hat is crocheted from the bottom up
- First the brim is worked lengthways in a long strip and joined to form the βtwistβ section
- The main body is then worked in the round to form a tube shape, with 3 decrease rounds at the end
- For the brim rows, the ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch
- Do not join the body rounds with a sl st at the end of each round β continue working in a spiral and mark the first stitch with a stitch marker
- The stitch count for each round is given in [] at the end of the round.
- Instructions are given for the smallest size, with all larger sizes given in ()
Finished Measurements
Toddler/Small Child
Head Circumference: 19-20″
Hat Circumference: 18.5″
Hat Height: 7.5″
Child/Teen
Head Circumference: 21-22β
Hat Circumference: 20β
Hat Height: 7.5″
Adult
Head Circumference: 23-24β
Hat Circumference: 22β
Hat Height: 8.5β
Gauge
Brim: 18 stitches x 14 rows hdc = 4β x 4β
Body: 18 stitches x 16 rows alternating dc/sc = 4β x 4β
Materials
Hook: 4mm/G-6 crochet hook (or hook needed to meet gauge)
Yarn: Any DK/Light weight yarn
The amounts given here are for StyleCraft Yarns Special DK (295m/323yds per 100g skein; Weight 3/DK/Light; 100% Acrylic)
Toddler/Small Child
Length: 228yds/208m
Weight: 70g
Skeins: 1
Child/Teen
Length: 252yds/230m
Weight: 78g
Skeins: 1
Adult
Length: 306yds/279m
Weight: 95g
Skeins: 1
Misc.
- Yarn Needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch Markers
Special Stitches
Double Crochet & Single Crochet together (dc+sc2tog)
The body of this hat is worked in an alternating dc/sc pattern. In keeping with this pattern, the decreases are also worked by crocheting a dc and sc together over 2 stitches.
Step 1 (the βdcβ part): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first two loops (two loops on hook)
Step 2 (the βscβ part): Insert hook into next stitch and pull up a loop (three loops on hook)Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Decrease made.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
ch = chain
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc+sc2tog = double crochet and single crochet
dec = decrease
Written Pattern
All Sizes – Toddler (Child, Adult)
Row 1: Chain 8 (8, 9), hdc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn [7 (7, 8)]
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each st across, turn
Rows 3 to 7 (7, 9): Repeat Row 2
Row 8 (8, 10): Ch 1, hdc in each st across, do not turn
Bring the edges of the row you just completed (Edge B) together with the foundation row (Edge A) so that they are lying side by side to form one long edge.
(The piece will curl up into a triangle but this is fine as it will form part of the ‘twist’)
Join the edges by working the next hdc into the bottom of the last foundation ch.
Continue working one hdc into each foundation ch across, turn [14 (14, 16)]
NOTE: This picture has 16 sts in the row but for the Toddler & Child sizes you will just have 14


Toddler (Child) ONLY
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn [14]
Rows 10 to 58 (64): Repeat Row 9
Row 59 (65): Ch 1, hdc in each of next 7 sts, turn [7]
Rows 60 (66) to 65 (71): Repeat Row 59 (65) [6 times]
Adult ONLY
Row 11:Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn [16]
Rows 12 to 70: Repeat Row 11
Row 71: Ch 1, hdc in each of next 8 sts, turn [8]
Rows 72 to 79: Repeat Row 71 [8 times]
CREATE THE BRIM
Remove hook but do not fasten off. Cut yarn and leave a long tail.
All Sizes
1) Lay the piece flat and fold both edges towards the center
Pass the narrow tab (on the right) up through the little gap formed by the folded section (on the left).

2) Line up the edge of this narrow tab with the corresponding unworked edge (i.e. line up 1 with 1, 2 with 2 etc as below).



Join the edges by working a row of sl sts through both edges (work through both loops). Remove hook but do not fasten off.
This is the wrong side of the brim so turn it inside out so that you are looking at the right side. Make sure to pull the long tail all the way through.
3) Lay the brim flat, and smooth out the twist so that it is nice and neat. Using a stitch marker, join the left and right ‘twists’ together, right in the center.
The stitch marker should be at the deepest point of the ‘V’.

Insert hook back into the loop where you left off (the loop is now behind the twist).

HAT BODY
Toddler (Child) ONLY
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in the edge of the brim, just to the left of the stitch marker, place another stitch marker in this stitch to mark the start of the round.
Continue to sc evenly around the edge of the brim until you reach the first stitch marker.
Work one hdc through both edges that had been joined by that first stitch marker (you can now remove this stitch marker, but leave the one that marks the start of the round) [84, (92)]
This round is more of an art than a science, aim for about 4 scs for every 3 hdc rows.
Count your stitches as you go and again at the end of the round. Aim for the count specified above, but if this doesnβt quite work out, you just need to end with an even number that is divisible by 4.
From this point on you will work in a spiral – do not join each round with a sl st.
At the start of each round, move the stitch marker to the first st. If you havenβt already reached the end of the long tail strand, join in yarn from your main skein now.
The next 3 rounds will close up the ‘V’ formed by the twist.
Round 2: hdc in marked st (place stitch marker in this hdc), dc in next st, [hdc in next st, dc in next st] 2 times, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until 6 sts remain before stitch marker, [hdc in next st, dc in next st] 3 times [84 (92)]
Round 3: dc in marked st (place stitch marker in this dc), hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until 4 sts remain before stitch marker, [dc in next st, hdc in next st] 2 times
Round 4: hdc in marked st (place stitch marker in this hdc), dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until 2 sts remain before stitch marker, hdc in next st, dc in next st
Round 5: *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around
Round 6: *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * around
Round 7 to 16: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 [6 times]

Dec Round 17: (See Special Stitches for dc+sc2tog if you havenβt already done so)
*dc+sc2tog in next 2 sts, dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around [63 (69)]
Dec Round 18: *dc+sc2tog in next 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * around [42 (46)]
Dec Round 19: *dc+sc2tog in next 2 sts; repeat from * around [21 (23)]
Fasten off and leave a long tail.
Go to Finishing
Adult ONLY
Round 1:
Ch 1, sc in the edge of the brim, just to the left of the stitch marker, place another stitch marker in this stitch to mark the start of the round.
Continue to sc evenly around the edge of the brim until you reach the first stitch marker.
Work one hdc through both edges that had been joined by that first stitch marker (you can now remove this stitch marker, but leave the one that marks the start of the round) [100]
This round is more of an art than a science, aim for about 4 scs for every 3 hdc rows.
Count your stitches as you go and again at the end of the round. Aim for the count specified above, but if this doesnβt quite work out, you just need to end with an even number that is divisible by 4.
From this point on you will work in a spiral – do not join each round with a sl st.
At the start of each round, move the stitch marker to the first st. If you havenβt already reached the end of the long tail strand, join in yarn from your main skein now.
The next 3 rounds will close up the ‘V’ formed by the twist.
Round 2: hdc in marked st (place stitch marker in this hdc), dc in next st, [hdc in next st, dc in next st] 3 times, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until 8 sts remain before stitch marker, [hdc in next st, dc in next st] 4 times [100]
Round 3: dc in marked st (place stitch marker in this dc), hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * until 4 sts remain before stitch marker, [dc in next st, hdc in next st] 2 times
Round 4: hdc in marked st (place stitch marker in this hdc), dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * until 2 sts remain before stitch marker, hdc in next st, dc in next st
Round 5: *dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around
Round 6: *sc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * around
Round 7 to 18: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6 [8 times]

Dec Round 19: (See Special Stitches for dc+sc2tog if you havenβt already done so)
*dc+sc2tog in next 2 sts, dc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around [75]
Dec Round 20: *dc+sc2tog in next 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * around [50]
Dec Round 21: *dc+sc2tog in next 2 sts; repeat from * around [25]
Fasten off and leave a long tail.
FINISHING
Turn hat inside out and thread a yarn needle with the tail. Weave the needle in and out between the stitches of the final row. Pull tight to cinch the hat closed. Sew the gap shut.
Cut yarn, weave in any other ends and turn hat the right way around.
All done!
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished pillow on Instagram or Facebook!
Happy crocheting!
Sarah
For more info on the Crochet Cancer Challenge:
- Cancer Challenge Introduction, what is it, click HERE.
- What type of hat should I make, what sizes and where should I get the patterns, click HERE
- What type of yarn is recommended for the hats, click HERE
- Where should I donate my hats, click HERE
- A fun “start early” project you can add to your hats, click HERE
- Challenge others to join and more fun information, click HERE

Thank you for this pattern and so many more easy to follow and very helpful tips. I’m hoping to get my printer working soon. My neighbor just found out she has cancer, she said terminal but wont give up which I’m glad. Thanks so much again. Amanda
Thank you it’s a beautiful pattern and easy to understand it’s awesome again thank youπ
Thank you so much – wish I had this little gem when I was on chemotherapy. Your tips are concise and easy to understand.