The Ridge Walk Hat is a free easy crochet winter hat pattern, that’s perfect for beginners. This hat is has a gorgeous dense and squishy texture, so it’s perfect for keeping extra warm and cosy during the cold winter months.
And if you love matching accessories, then you’ll definitely want to check out the matching Ridge Walk Scarf.
A perfect unisex crochet hat
The simple ribbed look of this crochet hat makes it perfect for both men and women. The crochet pattern is written for toddler, child, teen and adult sizes, so it’s a great hat to make in bulk for gifts!
And if you love ribbed crochet hats, then you might also like the Winter Rays Hat, which creates a ribbed effect with a completely different stitch combination.
The “faux rib” effect that is achieved with just one stitch, so it’s a great pattern for beginners and more advanced crocheters alike.
Basically, if you can make a single crochet, then you can make this hat! The entire pattern is based on the single crochet stitch, including the ribbing. For the body of the hat, you will alternate a regular single crochet with a long single crochet (lsc). This is a very simple adjustment that creates the ribbed effect.
And if you are a complete beginner, there is a full photo tutorial at the end of the pattern. This shows you exactly where to place your hook and how to make the modified long single crochet (lsc).
You may need to concentrate for the first couple of rows, but once you have the hang of it, it’s a great couch project to work with Netflix in the background 🙂 (Or if podcasts are more your thing, you might enjoy my favorite crochet and knitting podcasts while you crochet!)
What you’ll need to make this easy crochet winter hat
I used Lion Brand Wool Ease (#4/medium/worsted weight yarn) for my hat and kept things simple by using one color. And if wool allergies are a concern, then any #4 acrylic yarn would work great.
You will need two hook sizes for this hat:
- a smaller one (4.5mm/US 7) for the ribbing to ensure a snug fit (don’t worry about it being too tight, the ribbing is very stretchy).
- a larger one (6.5mm/K-10.5) for the body.
For the body of the hat, the hook size you choose will depend on whether you tend to crochet tightly or loosely.
If you crochet loosely, then you should be fine with a 6mm (J-10) hook. If your crochet is a little on the tight size, you might find it easier to go up to a 6.5mm (K-10.5) hook.
Whichever hook size you choose, you’ll want to ensure to pull up the “long loop” of your long sc high enough. Hint: it will probably need to be a little higher than you think!
How the hat is constructed
This hat is crocheted flat for the ribbing and most of the body. Once you reach the crown, you will seam the edges and finish off the hat by working in the round.
The last 5 rows are “decrease rounds” – they will decrease the circumference of the hat to make it easier to cinch in the gap at the top.
Make a matching scarf
This ribbed crochet hat has a matching scarf pattern – the Ridge Walk Scarf! As a pair, these two are pretty much guaranteed to keep the chills out all winter long. And the matching set would make a gorgeous crochet gift idea for friends and family.
You can find the free pattern for the Ridge Walk Scarf here.
More Crochet Patterns for Hats & Accessories
This hat is worked from the bottom up as follows:
- Crochet the ribbing (worked flat).
- Crochet the body of the hat (also worked flat), until you are almost at the top of the crown. Please see Appendix A: Body Rows for details on how to work each row.
- Seam the edges and work the rest of the hat in the round.
- The last 5 rounds decrease the circumference of the hat so that it can be cinched in at the top. Please see Appendix B: Crown for photos.
General Pattern Notes
- Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a st.
- Instructions are given for the smallest size, with all larger sizes in brackets ( ).
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each row/round.
- The stitch pattern for the BODY creates quite a dense fabric (which is why you will use a 6.5mm/K-10.5 hook).
Long Single Crochet (lsc)
- Insert hook into indicated st, yarn over and pull up a long loop (to the height of the previous st).
- Yarn over and complete sc.
Note: Take care to pull up the long loop high enough. If you are finding that your hat is a bit stiff, or that the edges are rippling, it is probably that the lsc is too short.
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
- Insert hook into indicated st, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
- Insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Head Circumference: 18″ / 45.5cm
Hat Circumference: 16.25″ / 41.5cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 7.75″ / 19.5cm
Head Circumference: 20″ / 51cm
Hat Circumference: 18.25″ / 46.5cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 8.25″ / 21cm
Head Circumference: 22″ / 56cm
Hat Circumference: 20.25″ / 51.5cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 8.75″ / 22cm
Head Circumference: 24″ / 61cm
Hat Circumference: 22.25″ / 56.5cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 9″ / 23cm
RIBBING: 6 sts x 13 rows = 1.5″ x 4″ / 4cm x 10cm measured over sl st ribbing.
BODY: 12 sts x 18 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10cm x 10cm measured over patt.
Note: the BODY gauge is the one that you will need to match to achieve the most accurate hat size.
Ribbing: 4.5mm (US 7)
Body: 6.5mm (US K-10.5) or hook required to meet gauge.
Any #4/Medium/Worsted weight yarn.
The amounts given here are for Lion Brand Wool Ease in Pumpkin (197 yds (180m) per 85 g skein; #4/Medium; 80% Acrylic, 20% Wool).
Toddler: 155 yds / 142m (67g) – 1 skein
Child: 187 yds / 171m (81g) – 1 skein
Adult (S): 220 yds / 201m (95g) – 2 skeins
Adult (M): 257 yds / 235m (111g) – 2 skeins
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Abbreviations (US Terms)
ch = chain
st = stitch
sk = skip
sc = single crochet
lsc = long single crochet
flo = front loop only
blo = back loop only
patt = pattern
pm = place marker
RS = Right Side
All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Adult (S), Adult (M))
With smaller hook, ch 7 (7, 9, 9).
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [6 (6, 8, 8)]
Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc (blo) in each st across, turn. [6 (6, 8, 8)]
Rows 3 – 49 (55, 61, 67): Repeat Row 2.
Note: See Appendix A: Body Rows below for a photo tutorial on how to work each row.
Row 1: With larger hook, ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc evenly along edge of ribbing, working one sc for each ribbing row, turn. [49 (55, 61, 67)]
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *sc (flo) in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, *lsc (flo) in st one row below, sc in next st; repeat from * across, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first st, *lsc (both loops) in unworked st one row below, sc in next st; repeat from * across, turn.
Row 5 – 23 (25, 25, 27): Repeat Row 4.
At the end of your last row, do not turn. Remove hook but do not cut yarn and fasten off. Tie a loose knot to prevent work from unravelling.
Note: See Appendix B: Crown below for step-by-step photos.
With RS facing you, fold hat in half so that the edges are lined up (the row just worked is your RS).
Using the mattress stitch, seam hat from the bottom up.
Insert hook back into loop at the end of the BODY rows, and work the remaining decrease rounds without turning.
Decrease rounds are worked without joining – use a stitch marker to mark the first st in each round.
Decrease Round 24 (26, 26, 28): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in same st, sk next sc (it will be hidden in the seam), sc in next st, *sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * until 4 sts remain, sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sts, do not join. [40 (45, 50, 55)]
Decrease Round 25 (27, 27, 29): Sc2tog (pm in st just made), sc in each of next 3 sts; *sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [32 (36, 40, 44)]
Decrease Round 26 (28, 28, 30): Sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sts; *sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [24 (27, 30, 33)]
Decrease Round 27 (29, 29, 31): Sc2tog, sc in next st; *sc2tog, sc in next st; repeat from * around, do not join. [16 (18, 20, 22)]
Decrease Round 28 (30, 30, 32): Sc2tog around. [8 (9, 10, 11)]
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Turn hat inside out. Weave the tail in and out between the stitches of the last row to close up the gap.
Pull tightly and secure the top with several whip stitches.
Weave in remaining ends. Add a pom pom if you wish 🙂.
Appendix A: Body Rows
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc evenly along the edge of your ribbing, working one sc for each ribbing row, turn.
- Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st.
- Insert hook into front loop only (flo) of next st.
- Work 1 sc (flo).
- *sc in next st, sc (flo) in next st; repeat from * across, turn.
- Ch 1, sc in first st.
- Insert hook into front loop of next stitch, one row below.
- Yarn over and pull up a long loop.
- Yarn over and complete long sc (lsc).
- Skip st behind st just made, sc in next st, *lsc (flo) in next st one row below, sk st behind st just made, sc in next st; repeat from * across, turn.
- Ch 1, sc in first st.
- Insert hook into unworked st (both loops), one row below.
- Yarn over and pull up a long loop.
- Yarn over and complete long sc (lsc).
- Skip st behind st just made, sc in next st, *lsc (both loops) in next st one row below, sk st behind st just made, sc in next st; repeat from * across, turn.
Appendix B: Crown
1. Finish working the body as per pattern.
2. With RS facing, fold hat in half and seam edges using the mattress stitch.
3. Work decrease rounds for crown as per pattern. Cinch in hat at top.
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