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Sedona Mosaic Crochet Hat – Free Pattern

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The Sedona Hat is an easy mosaic crochet hat pattern written for 4 sizes, from Baby to Adult.

If you haven’t tried mosaic crochet before, then this is a great first pattern to try – if you can work a single and a double crochet then you can make this hat!

This crochet hat has quite a simple style, and looks great on both men and women.

Winter Wonders Blog Hop

This pattern was featured in the Winter Wonders Blog Hop, an awesome FREE crochet event, that I am co-hosting with my friends RaeLynn from Itchin’ for some Stitchin’ and Hannah from HanJan Crochet.

What you’ll need for this mosaic crochet hat

Yarn

This pattern calls for a worsted weight yarn in 2 colors (see below for exact amounts for each size).

I used WeCrochet Chroma Worsted for my two hats (the yarn was very generously supplied by WeCrochet for this design). I used the “Sedona” colorway, which has the most gorgeous orange/pink/plum gradient, and paired it with the Black and Bare yarns from the same range for a little balance.

Chroma Worsted is a blend of 70% Superwash Wool and 30% Nylon. If wool allergies are a concern, then any #4 acrylic yarn would work great.

Hooks

I used 2 different hook sizes for my hat. For the ribbing I used a 4mm (G-6) hook – the ribbing is quite stretchy so using a smaller hook ensures a nice snug fit 🙂

For the hat body, I used a 5.5mm (I-9) crochet hook, but any hook that allows you to match the gauge will be absolutely fine.

Other supplies

The hat body is worked from the bottom-up in continuous rounds, meaning that you don’t join with a slip stitch at the end of each round, you simply begin the next round immediately. 

For this reason, it is a good idea to use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of each round!

Crochet Hat Sizing

The head circumference measurements that I used for each size are as follows:

  • Baby: 17″-19″ / 43cm-48.5cm
  • Toddler/Child: 19″-21″ / 48.5cm-53.5cm
  • Teen / Adult Small: 21″-23″ / 53.5cm-58.5cm
  • Adult Large: 23″-24″ / 58.5cm-61cm

If your head measurement is in between the sizes above, I would suggest making the larger size.

The hat is designed to sit just below the ear – if you would like to make it a little longer, you can add a couple of extra rounds before beginning the “decrease” rounds.

How to crochet the Sedona Mosaic Crochet Hat

This hat is worked from the bottom up. First, you will crochet the ribbing as a long strip, then fold it in half and seam the edges. You will begin the hat body by working into the edge of the ribbing.

The rest of the hat is worked in continuous rounds, without turning or joining.

The last 7 rounds are “decrease” rounds, designed to make the hat easier to cinch in at the top.


Mosaic Crochet Hat Inspiration

For some color inspiration, have a look at the gorgeous projects created by some of my testers!

Photo credit: @
flourish_and_yarns
Photo credit: @pagelfamilygardenandgifts
Photo credit: @treehousebyan
Photo credit: @stitchinwolf
Photo credit: @p4melahurtado
Photo credit: @crochettebycollette

Sedona Mosaic Crochet Hat

Free Crochet Pattern

Finished Sizes

SIZEHead CircumferenceHat CircumferenceHat Height
Baby17″-19″ / 43cm-48.5cm16″ / 40.5cm7.25″ / 18.5cm
Toddler/Child19″-21″ / 48.5-53.5cm18.25″ / 46.5cm7.75″ / 19.5cm
Adult Small21″-23″ / 53.5-58.5cm20.5″ / 52cm8.5″ / 21.5cm
Adult Large23″-24″ / 58.5-61cm22.75″ / 58cm9″ / 23cm

Gauge

Ribbing: 5 sts x 12 rows = 1″ x 4″ / 3 cm x 10cm measured over sc (blo) with smaller hook.

Body: 14 sts x 15 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10cm measured over sc (blo) with larger hook.


Materials

Hooks:

  • 4mm (G-6) crochet hook
  • 5.5mm (I-9)crochet hook

(or hooks required to meet gauge)

Yarn:

Any #4/Medium/Worsted weight yarn in 2 colors.

The amounts given here are for WeCrochet Chroma Worsted (181m/198yds per 100g skein; Weight 4/Aran; 70% Superwash Wool, 30% Nylon). Samples pictured are in the colorways Sedona, Bare and Black.

SIZEC1C2Total
Baby76 yds / 69m52 yds / 48m128 yds / 117m
Child90 yds / 82m64 yds / 59m154 yds / 141m
Adult Small115 yds / 105m78 yds / 71m193 yds / 176m
Adult Large135 yds / 123m94 yds / 86m229 yds / 209m

Misc.

  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch marker

Pattern Notes

Skill Level

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • st = stitch
  • sp = space
  • sk = skip
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • sc2tog = single crochet 2
  • together (see Special Stitches)
  • dc2tog = double crochet 2
  • together (see Special Stitches)
  • dc/sc2tog = double
  • crochet/single crochet 2
  • together (see Special Stitches)
  • blo = back loop only
  • flo = front loop only
  • beg = beginning
  • rem = remaining
  • dec = decrease
  • C1 = Color 1
  • C2 = Color 2

Construction

  • This hat is crocheted from the bottom up.
  • First, the ribbing is worked in a long strip, then folded in half and seamed.
  • The hat body is worked in continuous rounds i.e. do not join with a sl st at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

General Pattern Notes

  • The stitch count for each row/round is given in [ ] at the end of the row/round.
  • If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous row/round.
  • The pattern is written for the smallest size, with larger sizes given in ( ).

Mosaic Crochet

  • The hat body is worked using the “overlay” mosaic crochet technique, in alternating rounds of C1 and C2, as follows:
    • sc stitches are always worked through the back loop only (blo)
    • dc stitches are always worked through the front loop only (flo) TWO rows below
  • For the hat body, you can either follow the written instructions in the pattern, or use the Colorwork Chart in the print-friendly PDF.

Color Changes

  • Change color at the end of a round as follows:
    • With C1, do not work the last yarn over of the last sc of the round. [2 loops on hook]
    • Yarn over C2 and pull through both loops. Color change made.
    • At the back of your work, pull C1 gently downwards and to the right. You are now ready to begin the next round with C2.
  • Do not cut yarn between rows; simply float the new yarn up at the back of your work as required for each color change.

Print-friendly PDF (available at a low cost)

The print-friendly PDF version of this pattern also includes:

  • a colorwork chart for the hat body
  • a stitch diagram for the “decrease” rounds at the top of the hat

SPECIAL STITCHES

Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)

Step 1: Insert hook into indicated st, pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]

Step 2: Insert hook into next st, pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Double Crochet 2 Together  (dc2tog)

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. [2 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over, Insert hook into next indicated st and pull up a loop. [4 loops on hook]

Step 4: Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. [3 loops on hook]

Step 5: Yarn and pull through all 3 loops.

Double Crochet/Single Crochet 2 Together (dc/sc2tog)

Note: in this pattern, the first leg i.e. the “dc” leg is always worked though the front loop only (flo). The second leg i.e. the “sc” leg is worked through the back loop only (blo).

First Leg

Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into indicated st and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. [2 loops on hook]

Second Leg

Step 3: Insert hook into next indicated st and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 4: Yarn and pull through all 3 loops.


Written Pattern

RIBBING

All Sizes: Baby, (Toddler/Child, Adult Small, Adult Large)

With C1 and smaller hook and leaving a long tail for seaming, ch 6 (6, 7, 7).

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. [5 (5, 6, 6)]

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), sc (blo) in each st across, turn. [5 (5, 6, 6)]

Rows 3 – 56 (64, 72, 80): Repeat Row 2.

Do not fasten off.

Pull up a long loop, tie a loose knot (to prevent your work from unravelling), and remove hook.

Fold ribbing in half and seam edges together with a yarn needle,  using the long tail.

BODY

The hat body is worked in continuous rounds i.e. do not join with a sl st at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round. ​​At the end of each round, change color on the last yarn over of the last st.

With larger hook, pick up long loop at end of ribbing.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc evenly along edge of ribbing (working one sc for each ribbing row and changing to C2 on last yarn over of last st), do not join. [56 (64, 72, 80)]

Round 2:  With C2, sc (blo) in each st around (changing to C1 on last yarn over of last st), do not join.

Note: from this point onwards, the “change color” instruction at the end of each round is omitted, but you will continue to alternate between C1 and C2 for the rest of the pattern.

Round 3: With C1, dc (flo) in first st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in each of next 3 sts, *dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around, do not join.

Round 4: With C2, sc (blo) in first st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, *sc (blo) in next st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made; repeat from * around, do not join.

Rounds 5 – 16 (18, 20, 22): Repeat Rounds 3 and 4, continuing to alternate between C1 and C2 on each round.

The next 7 rounds will decrease the circumference of the hat to make it easier to “cinch in” at the top. For these “Decrease Rounds”, you can follow the written instructions here or use the Stitch Diagram in Appendix B.

Dec Round 1: With C1, dc (flo) in first st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc2tog (blo) in next 2 sts, sc (blo) in next st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in each of next 3 sts, *dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc2tog (blo) in next 2 sts, sc (blo) in next st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in each of next 3 sts; repeat from * around, do not join. [49 (56, 63, 70)]

Dec Round 2: With C2, sc (blo) in first st, dc2tog (flo) in next 2 dc 2 rows below (working first leg in next dc 2 rows below, skipping next sc 2 rows below, and working second leg in next dc 2 rows below), sk 2 sts behind dc2tog just made, twice, *sc (blo) in first st, dc2tog (flo) in next 2 dc 2 rows below (working first leg in next dc 2 rows below, skipping next sc 2 rows below, and working second leg in next dc 2 rows below), sk 2 sts behind dc2tog just made, twice; repeat from * around, do not join. [42 (48, 54, 60)]

Dec Round 3: With C1, dc (flo) in first st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in next st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc2tog (blo) in next 2 sts, sc (blo) in next st, *dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in next st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc2tog (blo) in next 2 sts, sc (blo) in next st; repeat from * around, do not join. [35 (40, 45, 50)]

Dec Round 4: With C2, sc (blo) in first st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in next st, dc2tog (flo) in next 2 dc 2 rows below (working first leg in next dc 2 rows below, skipping next sc 2 rows below, and working second leg in next dc 2 rows below), sk 2 sts behind dc2tog just made, *sc (blo) in next st, dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sk st behind dc just made, sc (blo) in next st, dc2tog (flo) in next 2 dc 2 rows below (working first leg in next dc 2 rows below, skipping next sc 2 rows below, and working second leg in next dc 2 rows below), sk 2 sts behind dc2tog just made; repeat from * around, do not join. [28 (32, 36, 40)]

Dec Round 5: With C1, dc/sc2tog (flo/blo) in first 2 sts (working first leg in flo of first st 2 rows below, and second leg in blo of next st), dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sc (blo) in next st, *dc/sc2tog (flo/blo) in next 2 sts(working first leg in flo of next st 2 rows below, and second leg in blo of next st), dc (flo) in next st 2 rows below, sc (blo) in next st; repeat from * around, do not join. [21 (24, 27, 30)]

Dec Round 6: With C2, sc (blo) in first st, dc2tog (flo) in next 2 dc 2 rows below (working first leg in next dc 2 rows below, skipping next dc 2 rows below, and working second leg in next dc 2 rows below), sk 2 sts behind dc2tog just made, *sc (blo) in next st, dc2tog (flo) in next 2 dc 2 rows below (working first leg in next dc 2 rows below, skipping next dc 2 rows below, and working second leg in next dc 2 rows below), sk 2 sts behind dc2tog just made; repeat from * around, do not join. [14 (16, 18, 20)]

Dec Round 7: With C1, dc/sc2tog (flo/blo) in first 2 sts (working first leg in blo of first st 2 rows below, and second leg in blo of next st), *dc/sc2tog (flo/blo) in next 2 sts (working first leg in flo of next st 2 rows below, and second leg in blo of next st); repeat from * around, sl st to join to beg st. [7 (8, 9, 10)]


Finishing

Cut yarn (both strands) and fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Turn hat inside out. Weave tail in and out between the stitches of the last row. Pull tail tightly to close up the top of the hat. Secure well with several knots!

Weave in any remaining ends.

Turn hat the right way around.

All done!


If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free, pdf version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts..

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah

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