This crochet sunglasses case is one cool dude! It is created using the ‘tapestry crochet’ technique, and is a great starter project if you haven’t attempted crochet colorwork before.
The sunglasses case pattern calls for approx. 100 yds of yarn, so it’s an absolutely perfect pattern for using those bits of left over yarn.
The pattern includes a full photo tutorial on how to attach a fabric liner and zipper to the clutch. And don’t worry, it requires only very basic sewing skills; honestly, if I can manage it anyone can.
This crochet sunglasses case is a perfect project for a confident beginner or a more experienced crocheter. The colorwork rounds use only 2 colors so if you haven’t attempted tapestry crochet before, this is a great first project.
I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK for my clutch. I love 100% cotton or a cotton blend for a purse or clutch, as it is super durable, and gives good weight and structure for everyday use. Other great options are Lion Brand Coboo, Hobby Lobby I Love this Cotton, or Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream.
Although I used #3/DK weight yarn for my clutch, the pattern will work just as well with a #4/worsted yarn – your finished piece will just end up a little larger than mine of course 🙂
How to get this pattern:
Option 1: Scroll on down to get this pattern for free!
Option 2: Purchase the easy-to-read, print-friendly PDF:
- This case is crocheted in the round from the bottom up.
- You will crochet the pouch as a “tube”, then seam the bottom to close it.
- Attach fabric liner and zipper to finish.
- The pouch is crocheted using the tapestry crochet technique.
- You will always work with two strands of yarn:
- one is your working yarn
- the second is carried beneath your stitches so that you can easily change color
- On rounds that only have one color, you should still carry a strand (of the same color) to keep the tension even.
- Change color as follows:
- With Color A, insert hook into blo of next st, yarn over and pull through (two loops on hook).
- Do not complete the stitch with Color A.
- Instead, keep Color A to the back of your work, yarn over Color B and pull through both loops on hook. Color change made
- Continue working over Color A until you reach the next color change.
Chart & Written Instructions
- For the colorwork section, you can follow the full written instructions below, or purchase a low-cost PDF through either Ravelry or Etsy for a full colorwork chart.
- If using the chart, start at the bottom right corner and work upwards from right to left. Each square on the chart corresponds to 1 sc.
- If using the written instructions, for each block of color, the instruction is written as follows:
(COLOR) stitch COUNT
e.g. (MC) sc (blo) 5
- All rounds are worked through the back loop only (blo).
- Do not join at the end of each round – continue working in a spiral. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each round. If no stitch count is given the count is the same as the previous round.
Width: approx. 7.5” / 19 cm
Height: approx. 4.25” / 10.75 cm
Note: these measurements are for the pattern worked using a DK weight yarn. Using a worsted weight yarn will give you a larger finished piece.
19 stitches x 18 rows = 4” x 4” / 10cm x 10cm measured over sc (blo) worked in the round.
Note: You want to choose a hook that will give you nice tight stitches so that the carried yarn will not peek through. If you crochet very loosely you may even need to go down another hook size. You will probably end up going with smaller hook than what you would normally use with a DK weight yarn – this is completely fine!
Yarn: Any DK/Lightweight/#3 weight yarn
The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yds (125m) per 50g skein; #3/Lightweight; 100% Cotton)
MC: Vanilla Cream – 80 yds / 73m (< 1 skein)
CC: Vintage Pink – 20 yds / 18m (< 1 skein)
- Fabric (approx. 8” x 8.5” / 20 cm x 21.5 cm)
- Zipper (approx. 8” / 20cm)
- Stitch marker & yarn needle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
ch = chain
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
blo = back loop only
pm = place marker
MC = Main Color
CC1 = Contrast Color 1
CC2 = Contrast Color 2
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
Foundation Chain: With MC, ch 72, sl st to first ch to form a ring (being careful not to twist the chain).
N.B. Don’t forget to carry another strand of MC beneath your stitches as you work the first 4 rounds.
Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc (blo) in same ch and in each ch around, do not join. 
Round 2: sc (blo) in first st (pm in this sc), sc (blo) in each st around, do not join. 
Rounds 3-4: Repeat Round 2.
Round 5: (MC) sc (blo) 8, (CC) sc (blo) 6, (MC) sc (blo) 8, (CC) sc (blo) 6, (MC) sc (blo) 44.
Round 6: (MC) sc (blo) 7, (CC) sc (blo) 8, (MC) sc (blo) 6, (CC) sc (blo) 8, (MC) sc (blo) 43.
Round 7: (MC) sc (blo) 6, (CC) sc (blo) 10, (MC) sc (blo) 4, (CC) sc (blo) 10, (MC) sc (blo) 42.
Round 8: (MC) sc (blo) 6, (CC) sc (blo) 10, (MC) sc (blo) 4, (CC) sc (blo) 10, (MC) sc (blo) 42.
Round 9: (MC) sc (blo) 5, (CC) sc (blo) 8, (MC) sc (blo) 1, (CC) sc (blo) 3, (MC ) sc (blo) 2, (CC) sc (blo) 8, (MC) sc (blo) 1, (CC) sc (blo) 3, (MC) sc (blo) 41.
Round 10: (MC) sc (blo) 5, (CC) sc (blo) 8, (MC) sc (blo) 2, (CC) sc (blo) 2, (MC ) sc (blo) sc 2, (CC) sc (blo) 8, (MC) sc (blo) 2, (CC) sc (blo) 2, (MC) sc (blo) 41.
Round 11: (MC) sc (blo) 5, (CC) sc (blo) 7, (MC) sc (blo) 3, (CC) sc (blo) 11, (MC) sc (blo) 3, (CC) sc (blo) 2, (MC) sc (blo) 41.
Round 12: (MC) sc (blo) 3, (CC) sc (blo) 9, (MC) sc (blo) 2, (CC) sc (blo) 12, (MC) sc (blo) 2, (CC) sc (blo) 5, (MC) sc (blo) 39.
Round 13: (MC) sc (blo) 3, (CC) sc (blo) 7, (MC) sc (blo) 3, (CC) sc (blo) 11, (MC) sc (blo) 3, (CC) sc (blo) 6, (MC) sc (blo) 39.
Round 14: (MC) sc (blo) 3, (CC) sc (blo) 30, (MC) sc (blo) 39.
Round 15: (MC) sc (blo) 7, (CC) sc (blo) 7, (MC) sc (blo) 8, (CC) sc (blo) 7, (MC) sc (blo) 43.
Rounds 16-19: With MC, repeat Round 2.
Round 20: sl st (both loops) in each st around, sl st to join to first st. Fasten off.
Pin pouch to a blocking mat. I wet-blocked mine but steam blocking would work well too.
Don’t skip this step! It will give you a chance to correct any shaping issues with your work.
Stitch Bottom Edges
Once blocked, turn the pouch inside out and whip stitch the bottom edges together.
Weave in any ends and turn pouch the right way around.
Attach Liner & Zipper
1. Cut a piece of fabric to the following measurements:
Width: pouch width + 0.25” seam allowance at each side i.e. 7.5” + 0.5” = 8” / 20 cm
Height: pouch height x 2 i.e. 4.25” x 2 = 8.5” / 21.5 cm
Ideally, iron your fabric (I did not and it was harder to sew!
2. Lay zipper right side down. Lay fabric on top (also right side down) so that the top edges of the fabric and zipper are aligned. Pin in place and sew.
3. Flip over so that you are looking at the RS of the zipper and the RS of the lining. Fold zipper up so that you are looking at the WS of the zipper once more.
Now fold the bottom edge of the fabric upwards to meet the top edge of the zipper.
4. Pin in place and sew. When you are done you will be looking at the RS of the zipper and the WS of the fabric i.e. you want the RS of the fabric to be visible when you open the pouch.
5. Pin the back and front of the liner together on each side, and sew. Position your seams so that your finished liner will be the same width as the pouch.
6. Insert liner into pouch and pin in place. Sew zipper to pouch.
If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!