This tapestry crochet headband pattern is perfect for using up those scraps of leftover yarn. And even though it uses several different colors, there are absolutely NO ends to weave in!
Read on to find out how 🙂
This pattern might look like it has a lot of color changes, but each row actually on uses two strands of yarn. So, it is a really great bitesize project to get you started on colorwork if you haven’t done it before 🙂
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What you need to crochet this headband
I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK for my headband, as I think that it is just a perfect summer yarn. Any #3/Light/DK weight yarn would work great.
In tapestry crochet, you carry your unworked strand of yarn beneath your stitches until it is time to change color. You want to choose a hook that will give you nice tight stitches so that the carried yarn will not peek through. If you crochet very loosely you may even need to go down another hook size. You will probably end up going with a smaller hook than what you would normally use with your chosen yarn – this is completely fine!
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If you like this crochet headband pattern, you might also enjoy these patterns:
- This headband is crocheted flat, and all rows are worked from right to left i.e. do not turn at the end of a row.
- At the start of each row, leave a long tail of approx. 12”/30 cm, and begin the row with a slip knot on your hook.
- At the end of each row, instead of turning, leave another 12”/30 cm tail, cut yarn and fasten off.
- The 12”/30cm tail applies to both your working yarn and carried yarn (see Colorwork notes next for a description of both strands).
- The headband is crocheted using the tapestry crochet technique.
- You will always work with two strands of yarn:
- one is your working yarn
- the second is carried beneath your stitches
- On rows that only have one color, you should still carry a strand (of the same color) to keep the tension even.
- Take care not to pull your carried yarn too tightly, as this will cause your work to bunch up. If you have never done this before, don’t worry – it gets easier with practice.
- Change color as follows:
- With C1, insert hook into blo of next st, yarn over and pull through (two loops on hook).
- Do not complete the stitch with C1.
- Instead, keep C2 to the back of your work, yarn over C2 and pull through both loops. Color change made.
- Carry C1 until you reach the next color change.
Please see Appendix B below for photo tutorials on how to begin each row, and how to change color mid-row.
Chart & Written Instructions
- For the colorwork section, you can either use the Colorwork Chart in Appendix A or follow the written instructions.
- If using the chart, start at the bottom right corner and work from right to left. Each square on the chart corresponds to 1 sc (blo).
- The chart pattern repeats every 10 sts.
- If using the written instructions, for each block of color, the instruction is written as follows:
(COLOR) stitch COUNT
(C1) sc (blo) 8
- All rows (apart from Row 1) are worked through the back loop only (blo).
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each row.
- If no stitch count is given, it is the same as the previous row.
- Instructions are given for the Child size first, with the Adult size given in brackets ( ).
Width (excluding ties): approx. 14” / 35.5 cm
Height: approx. 1.5” / 4 cm
Width (excluding ties): approx. 16” / 40.5 cm
Height: approx. 1.5” / 4 cm
22 stitches x 7 rows = 4” x 1.5” / 10 cm x 4 cm measured over sc (blo) worked right to left.
Note: You want to choose a hook that will give you nice tight stitches so that the carried yarn will not peek through. If you crochet very loosely you may even need to go down another hook size. You will probably end up going with a smaller hook than what you would normally use with your chosen yarn – this is completely fine!
Yarn: Any #3 / Light / DK yarn.
The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137 yds (125m) per 50g skein; #3/Lightweight; 100% Cotton)
Note: These amounts are for the Adult size but the difference between sizes is negligible in terms of yarn requirements.
C1: Champagne White – 15 yds / 14m (6g)
C2: Light Caramel – 11 yds / 10m (4g)
C3: Vintage Pink – 11 yds / 10m (4g)
C4: Soft Fudge – 7 yds / 6m (3g)
TOTAL: 44 yds / 40m (17g)
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Abbreviations (US Terms)
ch = chain
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
blo = back loop only
rem = remaining
C1 = Color 1
C2 = Color 2
C3 = Color 3
C4 = Color 4
Boho Crochet Headband Pattern
Both sizes: Child (Adult)
N.B. Please see Notes section above, as well as Appendix B below, for detailed descriptions and photo tutorials on how to start each row, as well as how to change color.
Foundation Chain: With C1, and leaving a long tail of approx. 12”/30 cm, ch 70 (80). Cut yarn and fasten off, leaving another 12”/30 cm tail at the end.
Row 1: Starting in the first foundation ch, and working with a new C1 strand, as well as a carried C1 strand, sc in the back bump of first ch and in each ch across, cut both strands and fasten off. [70 (80)]
Note: for Rows 2 – 6, you can either follow the written instructions here, or the colorwork chart. You will work the 10-st pattern repeat in the chart 7 (8) times across i.e. 70 (80) sts.
Row 2: *(C2) sc (blo) 8, (C1) sc (blo) 2; repeat from * across, cut both strands and fasten off.
Row 3: (C1) sc (blo) 1, (C3) sc (blo) 8, *(C1) sc (blo) 2, (C3) sc (blo) 8; repeat from * until 1 st rem, (C1) sc (blo) 1, cut both strands and fasten off.
Row 4: *(C1) sc (blo) 2, (C4) sc (blo) 8; repeat from * across, cut both strands and fasten off.
Row 5: Repeat Row 3.
Row 6: Repeat Row 2.
Row 7: With C1, sc (blo) in each st across, fasten off.
On each side of your headband you should have 15 strands.
Gather the strands together, about 1”/2.5cm from the edge of your work. Wrap one strand around several times and knot to secure.
Divide the strands into three, and braid. Secure at the end with another wrap knot. Trim ends.
Repeat on the other side. All done!
Appendix A: Colorwork Chart
This chart repeats every 10 sts. On each row, you will work 7 or 8 repeats of the chart (depending on the size you are making).
Start at the bottom right corner, and work from right to left. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch.
- With C1, start the row with a slip knot on your hook, and carry a strand of the same color. Insert hook in the back bump of the foundation chain.
- Yarn over your working yarn and complete one sc.
- Continue to sc across the chain.
- With C2, start row with a slip knot on your hook, and carry a strand of C1. Insert hook into back loop of first st.
- Yarn over your working yarn (C2) and complete 1 sc.
- Do not complete the sc before the color change.
- Yarn over your carried yarn (C2), and complete the sc.
- Color change made.
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I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished hat on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!