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Tapestry Triangles Crochet Pillow

Tapestry Triangles Pillow Crochet Pattern
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I love the geometric pattern trends that are everywhere at the moment and luckily crochet lends itself perfectly to recreating the trend. This Tapestry Triangles crochet pillow is worked in the round like a granny square, using single crochet through the back loop only.

Crocheting through the back loop helps a bit with the ‘lean’ that you sometimes get when you crochet a really large square. And finishing off with a good blocking will give you a near perfect square at the end.

I decided to use fabric for the back of the pillow, but you could easily crochet a second panel and join them together. I even went one step further and added a zip but this is completely optional.

Tapestry Crochet pillow with zip

Don’t be put off by the thought of sewing the fabric and the crochet together, I have a nifty little technique that will give you a professional looking finish even if your sewing skills are more on the amateur side (like mine are). A full tutorial with photos on how to attach the fabric is below.

For this tapestry crochet pillow I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK which I have been having a little bit of a love affair with for the last few months. (I used it for the Twinkle Tank, the Peaches & Cream Vest and my Moss Stitch Zipper Pouch!)

This super durable yarn is available in 51 different shades so there’s a pretty good chance you’ll find something you like 🙂


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Notes (please read before starting!)

Construction

  • The pillow panel is crocheted in the round from the middle outwards
  • For the back panel I used a piece of fabric (all instructions given below) but you could just as easily crochet 2 panels and join them using round of slip stitches.

Colorwork

  • The triangle colorwork on this pillow is done using tapestry crochet. Each triangle is made using a ‘bobbin’ with the unused strand ‘floated’ behind the active strand (the wrong side will be hidden so you do not need to worry about the floats being seen)
  • Before you begin the colorwork section, create your bobbins by cutting approx. 2 yds/2m of yarn for each triangle. To prevent the bobbins from getting tangled up, I used clothes pins to clip the unused bobbins to the main square as I went along. You can also use special plastic or cardboard yarn bobbins (like these ones: http://bit.ly/yarn-bobbins)

Pattern Notes

  • For all rounds (apart from the first round), stitches are worked through the back loop only (blo)
  • Ch 1 at the start of each round DOES NOT COUNT as one stitch. So, at the start of each round, you will ch 1, then sc 3 times into the same corner stitch.
  • The stitch count for each round is given in [] at the end of the round.
Tapestry Crochet pillow with fall colors
I had a little help while photographing the pillow 🙂

Finished Measurements

Approx 16” x 16” (Pillow without border measures about 15.5” x 15.5” to take a 16” x 16” cushion insert)

Gauge

18 rounds of sc blo = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm)

Materials

Hook: 4mm/G-6 crochet hook (I love this Clover Soft Touch one)

Yarn: Any DK/Size 3/Light weight yarn

The amounts given below are for Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (137m/125yds per 50g skein; Size 3/DK/Light; 100% Cotton)

ColorwayLengthWeightSkeins
Color A: Champagne White225m/247yds90g2
Color B: Soft Fudge13m/12yds4g<1
Color C: Light Caramel17m/15 yds5g<1
Color D: Vintage Pink13m/12yds4g<1

Misc.

  • Yarn Needle for weaving in ends
  • Stitch marker
  • Zipper (approx 12-14″)
  • Fabric to measure the same size as the finished pillow + 0.5 inch seam allowance -> approx. 16” x 16”
  • 16″ x 16″ cushion insert

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Tapestry Crochet

Color changes

Color is changed on the last yarn over of the stitch before the new color. The following instructions are for color changes using single crochet (sc) which is all you will need for this pattern.

Step 1: Using Color A, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook). DO NOT complete the stitch.

Step 2: Holding A at the back of your work, yarn over Color B and pull through both loops to complete the stitch.

Step 3: Continue the pattern with the required number of stitches using B. (Leave A at the back of your work)

Step 4: On the stitch before the change back to Color A, using B, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Step 5: Now holding B to the back of your work, bring A across (being careful not to pull it too tightly), yarn over A and pull through both loops to complete the stitch

Tapestry crochet color change step by step

Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch = chain

st = stitch

sp = space

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

blo = back loop only

Written Pattern

Round 1:

Using COLOR A, ch 2, sc 8 times into second st from hook, sl st (blo) to top of first st to join round. Do not turn. [8]

Round 2:

Ch 1, sc blo in next st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc blo 2 more times in same st, sc blo in next st, *sc blo 3 times in next st, sc blo in next st; repeat from * [3 times], sl st (blo) to top of marked st [16]

Round 3:

Sl st (blo) to next st {i.e. your corner st}, ch 1, sc blo in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc blo 2 more times in same st, sc blo in each of next 3 sts, *sc blo 3 times in next st {i.e. the next corner st}, sc blo in each of next 3 st; repeat from * 3 times, sl st (blo) to top of marked st [24]

Single Crochet in the round - steps to start and end a round

From this point onwards ALL stitches (including slsts) are worked in the back loop only (blo)

Round 4:

Sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in each st until you reach corner st, *sc 3 times in corner st, sc in each st until you reach next corner st; repeat from * 3 times, sl st to top of marked st [32]

Round 5-28:

Repeat Round 4 [24 times] [224]


From this round onwards, you will start your colorwork to create the triangles. The easiest thing to do to avoid the different colors getting tangled is to create a “bobbin” of approx. 2yds/2m for each triangle. I used clothespins to keep the bobbins in place as I worked my way around.

Tapestry crochet with bobbins

Round 29:

TOP EDGE

Still using A, sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in next 2 sts.

Triangle Point 1 i.e. first color change

Insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), change to B, yarn over and pull through to finish the sc. Using B, insert hook into next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, changing back to A, yarn over and pull through to finish the sc.

Still using A, sc in each of next 10 sts

Triangle Point 2

Repeat steps exactly as for Triangle Point 1, this time changing to C for 1 sc and then changing back to A.

Carry on working the TOP EDGE as follows, making sure to change color with 2 loops on hook:

Using A, sc in next 11 sts, change to D, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to C, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to B, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

LEFT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to C, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to B, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to C, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to D, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

BOTTOM EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to C, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to D, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to C, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to B, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

RIGHT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to C, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to B, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to C, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 11 sts, change to D, sc in next st,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sl st to top of marked st to join round [232 sts]

Round 30:

TOP EDGE

Using A, sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to D, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to B, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

LEFT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to B, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts, change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to D, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

BOTTOM EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts, change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to D, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to B, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

RIGHT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to B, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to C, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 9 sts, change to D, sc in next 3 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sl st to top of marked st to join round [240 sts]

Round 31:

TOP EDGE

Using A, sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts.

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to D, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to B, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

LEFT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to B, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to D, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

BOTTOM EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts, change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to D, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to B, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

RIGHT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to B, sc in next 5 sts, change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to C, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 7 sts, change to D, sc in next 5 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sl st to top of marked st to join round [248 sts]

Round 32:

TOP EDGE

Using A, sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts.

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to B, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to D, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

LEFT EDGE Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to B, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to D, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

BOTTOM EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts, change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to D, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to B, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

RIGHT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to B, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to C, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 5 sts, change to D, sc in next 7 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sl st to top of marked st to join round [256 sts]

Round 33:

TOP EDGE

Using A, sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts, change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts.

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

LEFT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

BOTTOM EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sc 3 times in corner st

RIGHT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next 3 sts, sl st to top of marked st to join round [264 sts]

Round 34:

TOP EDGE

Using A, sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 11 sts.

change to A, sc in next st, change to B, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to D, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, sc 3 times in corner st

LEFT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to B, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to D, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, sc 3 times in corner st

BOTTOM EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to B, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to D, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to B, sc in next 11 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, sc 3 times in corner st

RIGHT EDGE

Using A, sc in next 3 sts, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to B, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to C, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, change to D, sc in next 9 sts,

change to A, sc in next st, sl st to top of marked st to join round [272 sts]

Round 35:

Using A, sl st to corner st, ch 1, sc in same st {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in same st, sc in each st until you reach corner st, *sc 3 times in corner st, sc in each st until you reach next corner st; repeat from * 3 times, sl st to top of marked st [280]

Do not fasten off.

Turn to the back and trim the ends of each bobbin. For each bobbin, knot the start and end of the yarn tightly

Back of tapestry crochet panel

FINISHING

Blocking (don’t skip this!)

It is likely that your crochet panel will have some lumps and bumps and not be a “perfect square.” Blocking should iron out all these issues.

Crochet panel blocking
Yes, I use a foam playmat for blocking 🙂

Fabric Panel (for Back)

Measure out a piece of fabric that is the same size as your finished crochet panel + a seam allowance of 0.5 inches on each side. So if your crochet piece measures 15.5” x 15.5”, then your fabric should measure 16” x 16”.

Measuring seam allowance on fabric

Fold each edge of the fabric along the seam line and press with an iron. Your fabric should now measure the same size as the crochet panel.

Crochet and fabric panels side by side

Attach zipper to fabric

Lay the right side of the zipper along one edge of the wrong side of the fabric. Pin in place and sew using the back stitch.

Pinning zipper to fabric

Prepare fabric for attaching to crochet panel

  • Thread a needle with any color thread that will blend in with the fabric (and ideally with the crochet panel too)
  • Looking at the front of the fabric, begin at the left hand side, just beside the edge of the zipper.
  • Insert the needle into the seam line from the bottom upwards
  • Loosely back stitch all the way along the seam line until you reach other other side of the zipper. Each stitch should be large enough to fit your crochet hook through.
  • You should now have a series of “loops” into which you can crochet to attach the front and back pieces together
Sewing along seam line

Attach zipper to crochet panel

  • Lay the crochet panel and fabric panels side by side with the wrong sides of both facing you
  • Pin the right side of the zipper to the crochet panel
  • Open the zipper and sew in place using the back stitch
  • Close the zipper
Sewing zipper to crochet panel

Join fabric and crochet panels

  • Pick up your crochet panel at the corner where you left off
  • Place the wrong side of the crochet panel AND the wrong side of the fabric panel together i.e. you are looking at the right side of the crochet panel.

Sl st to corner st, ch 1, insert hook through back loop of the same corner st AND the corresponding “thread loop” on the fabric panel, pull up a loop and complete a single crochet {place stitch marker in this sc}, sc 2 more times in the same corner st AND the thread loop.

Joining panels with crochet hook


Continue to sc along the edge, picking up the thread loops as you go. Remember to sc 3 times in each corner st. When you reach the zipper, just sc along the crochet piece as there are no loops to pick up.

Sl st to marked stitch at the end of the round. [288]

Last round

Finish with a round of sl sts (through both loops). Fasten off and weave in tail. [288]


I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished pillow on Instagram or Facebook!

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free, pdf version of this pattern through Ravelry, or if you haven’t already signed up for my newsletter you can subscribe here and I will send you a promo code for a FREE PDF of ANY ONE of my patterns!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah


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