The Trinity Stitch Crochet Hat is a chunky hat with a unique striped effect, and a it’s free pattern!
This hat has a simple look and feel, which makes it a great unisex hat. The crochet pattern is written for 4 sizes – Toddler, Child, Teen and Adult – so it’s also perfect for making in bulk for gifts!
How to get this pattern:
Option 1: Scroll on down to get this pattern for free!
Option 2: Purchase the easy-to-read, print-friendly PDF:
Hat Sizing & Fit
This hat is quite close-fitting – for maximum coziness in cooler temps.
For the ribbing, you will use a smaller hook for a nice, snug fit. For the body of the hat, you will go up to the larger hook size.
Hat Construction
The hat is crocheted from the bottom up. First, you will work the ribbing in a long strip, and then seam the edges.
Next, you will begin the striped Trinity Stitch rows. For the last few rounds, you will work decrease rows to “cinch” the hat in at the top.
The pattern includes a full photo tutorial on how to crochet the Trinity Stitch, and how achieve the striped effect. You will need to know only basic stitches so it’s definitely an achievable project for beginners.
A Quick Crochet Pattern
This crochet hat works up really quickly, mainly thanks to the #5/Bulky weight yarn! It’s definitely a great project for any last-minute gifts that you need to whip up 🙂
And once you have gotten the hang of the color changes, it also makes a great couch project to work on with Netflix (or a crochet podcast!) on in the background.
Here is some colorful inspiration from 3 talented crocheters who tested this pattern 🙂
What you’ll need for the Trinity Stitch Hat
For my hat, I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky which is a #5/Bulky yarn. Any similar weight yarn would work great.
I used a 6.5mm (L-10.5) hook for my hat, and a 5.5mm (I-9) for the ribbing.
More Crochet Patterns
You might also be interested in these other crochet hat patterns:
Trinity Stitch Hat
Free Crochet Pattern
Pattern Notes
Skill Level
Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- sk = skip
- sp = space
- st = stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
- sc3tog = single crochet 3 together
- hdc = half double crochet
- fhdc = foundation half double crochet
- patt = pattern
- beg = beginning
- rem = remaining
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong Side
- C1 = Color 1
- C2 = Color 2
Construction
This hat is worked from the bottom up.
- The ribbing is crocheted flat, then joined at the edges.
- Next, the body of the hat is worked in the round, starting with one round of sc, and then “sc3tog rounds” for the rest of the hat (see Special Stitch below).
- The last 4 rounds decrease the circumference of the hat so that it can be cinched in at the top.
Color Changes
- For this pattern, you will turn and change color at the end of each “sc3tog round”.
- Please see photo tutorials in Appendix: Color Changes below for instructions on how to turn and make the color changes, as the method differs slightly depending on if you are working a Right Side (RS) or Wrong Side (WS) round.
Additional Notes
- Ch 1 at the start of each ribbing row does not count as a st.
- There is no turning chain at the start of each “sc3tog round”; you will begin and end each round with a sc3tog.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each row/round.
Instructions are given for the smallest size, with all larger sizes in brackets ( ).
Special Stitches
Foundation Half Double Crochet (fhdc)
Note: please see Chainless Foundation Rows for a photo tutorial
- Ch 2 (does not count as a st), yarn over, insert hook into second chain from hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook. This is the extra “chain” in your foundation row (still 3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, pull through 3 loops on hook. First fhdc made.
- Yarn over, insert hook into extra “chain” made in 2, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, pull through first loop on hook. This is the next “chain” in your foundation row (still 3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over, pull through 3 loops on hook. Second fhdc made.
- Repeat 4, 5 and 6 as per pattern.
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
- Insert hook into indicated st, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
- Insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog)
- Insert hook into indicated st, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
- Insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Insert hook into next st, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).
- Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
Finished Measurements
Toddler
To fit head circumference: 18″ / 45.5cm
Hat circumference: 16″ / 40.5cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 7″ / 18cm
Child
To fit head circumference: 20″ / 51cm
Hat circumference: 18″ / 45.5cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 7.75″ / 19.5cm
Teen/Adult S
To fit head circumference: 22″ / 56cm
Hat circumference: 20″ / 51cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 8.75″ / 22cm
Adult L
Hat circumference: 25″ / 63.5cm
Hat Height (incl. ribbing): 8.75″ / 22cm
Gauge
Ribbing: 6 sts x 13 rows = 1.75″ x 4″ / 4 cm x 10 cm measured over hdc + sl st ribbing
Body: 12 sts x 11 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10cm x 10cm measured over pattern.
Note: the Body gauge is the one that you will need to match to get the desired hat size.
Materials
Hook
- Ribbing: 5.5mm (I-9)
- Body: 6.5mm (K-10.5) or hook required to meet gauge.
Yarn
Any #5 / Bulky weight yarn.
The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky (136m/149yds per 100g skein; Weight 5/Bulky; 100% Acrylic).
Toddler
C1: 60 yds / 55m
C2: 35 yds / 32m
Total: 95 yds / 87m
Child
C1: 70 yds / 64m
C2: 45 yds / 41m
Total: 115 yds / 105m
Teen/Adult S
C1: 90 yds / 82m
C2: 55 yds / 50m
Total: 145 yds / 133m
Adult L
C1: 105 yds / 96m
C2: 65 yds / 59m
Total: 170 yds / 155m
Misc.
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers
Written Pattern
All Sizes: Toddler (Child, Adult S, Adult L)
1. RIBBING
ROW 1: With smaller hook and C1 (leaving a long tail for seaming), 5 (5, 6, 6) fhdc, turn. [5 (5, 6, 6)]
ROW 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sl st in each st across, turn. [5 (5, 6, 6)]
Note: it might be helpful to place a stitch marker in the last sl st of ROW 2; it makes it easier to know where to start ROW 3.
ROW 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each st across, turn. [5 (5, 6, 6)]
ROWS 4 – 47 (53, 59, 65): Repeat previous 2 rows.
Do not fasten off. Pull up a long loop so that your work does not unravel during seaming, remove hook from loop.
Fold ribbing in half and seam edges.
Insert hook back into loop, continue working body from here.
2. BODY
Change to larger hook.
ROUND 1 (RS): With C1, ch 1 (does not count as a st), 2 sc in side of first hdc row, sc evenly along edge of ribbing (working 1 sc for each sl st and each hdc row), sl st to join to first sc, do not turn. [48 (54, 60, 66)]
Join in C2, but do not fasten off C1.
Note: The print-friendly pattern PDF contains photo tutorials on how to start and finish the next 3 rounds.
ROUND 2 (RS): With C2, sc3tog into first st and each of next 2 sts, ch 1, *sc3tog (inserting hook first into same st as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into each of next 2 sts), ch 1; repeat from * until 1 st rem, sc3tog (inserting hook first into same st as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into last st, then into same st as beg sc3tog), ch 1, sl st to beg sc3tog (changing to C1 on yarn over), turn. [24 (27, 30, 33) sc3tog]
ROUND 3 (WS): With C1, sc3tog (inserting hook first into ch-1 sp just made, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1, *sc3tog (inserting hook first into same ch-1 sp as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1; repeat from * until 1 sc3tog rem, sc3tog (inserting hook first into same ch-1 sp as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into top of last sc3tog, then into same ch-1 sp as first leg of beg sc3tog), ch 1.
To change color: remove hook from loop and turn. With RS facing, insert hook into beg sc3tog of previous row AND loop, yarn over C2 and pull through (color change made).
ROUND 4 (RS): With C2, sc3tog (inserting hook first into ch-1 sp just made, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1, *sc3tog (inserting hook first into same ch-1 sp as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1; repeat from * until 1 sc3tog rem, sc3tog (inserting hook first into same ch-1 sp as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into top of last sc3tog, then into same ch-1 sp as first leg of beg sc3tog), ch 1, sl st to beg sc3tog (changing to C1 on yarn over), turn.
ROUNDS 5 – 10 (12, 14, 14): Repeat previous 2 rows.
ROUND 11 (13, 15, 15) (WS): Repeat Row 3.
DECREASE ROUND 12 (14, 16, 16) (RS): With C2, sc3tog (inserting hook first into ch-1 sp just made, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1, sc3tog (inserting hook first into same ch-1 sp as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1, *sk next sc3tog, [sc3tog (inserting hook first into next ch-1 sp, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1] 2 times; repeat from * until 1 sc3tog rem, sk last sc3tog, ch 1, sl st to beg sc3tog (changing to C1 on yarn over), turn. [16 (18, 20, 22) sc3tog]
ROUND 13 (15, 17, 17) (WS): Repeat ROUND 3. [16 (18, 20, 22) sc3tog]
DECREASE ROUND 14 (16, 18, 18) (RS): With C2, sc3tog (inserting hook first into ch-1 sp just made, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1, *sk next sc3tog, sc3tog (inserting hook first into next ch-1 sp, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp), ch 1; repeat from * until 1 sc3tog rem, sk last sc3tog, ch 1, sl st to beg sc3tog (changing to C1 on yarn over), turn. [8 (9, 10, 11) sc3tog]
DECREASE ROUND 15 (17, 19, 19) (WS): With C1, sc2tog in top of first sc3tog and next ch-1 sp, *sc2tog in top of next sc3tog and next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, sl st to top of beg sc2tog, cut yarn (leaving a long tail), and fasten off. [8 (9, 10, 11) sc2tog]
Finishing
Ensure the hat is turned inside out.
At the top of the hat, weave the tail in and out between the stitches of the last row to close up the gap.
Pull tightly and secure the top with several whip stitches.
Weave in the remainder of the tail.
Add a pom pom if you wish 🙂.
All done!
Appendix: Color Changes
Row 2
a) Start Row 2 in first st (i.e. same st as sl st just made).
b) Work sc3tog over first 3 sts.
c) *sc3tog (inserting hook first into same st as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into next 2 sts), ch 1; repeat * around.
Color Change (RS)
Finish RS Row
a) Insert hook into top of beg sc3tog.
b) Yarn over C1 and pull through. Color change made.
Start WS Row
c) Turn. Start next row in ch-1 sp just made.
d) sc3tog (inserting hook into first ch-1 sp, then into top of next sc3tog and then into next ch-1 sp).
Color Change (WS)
Finish WS Row
a) Work in patt until one sc3tog remaining.
b) sc3tog (inserting hook first into same ch-1 sp as last leg of previous sc3tog, then into top of last sc3tog, then into same ch-1 sp as beg sc3tog).
Start RS Row
c) Remove hook from loop and turn.
d) Insert hook into top of sc3tog just made AND loop.
e) Yarn over C1. Color change made.
f) sc3tog (inserting hook first into ch-1 sp just made, then into top of next sc3tog, then into next ch-1 sp).
If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry, Etsy or LoveCrafts.
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!
Happy crocheting!
Sarah