Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow – Free Pattern

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The Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow is the perfect cosy addition to your home for the holiday season. This pattern is perfect for anyone who has dabbled in Tunisian crochet and would like to expand their skills a little!

The front and back panels are joined with a round of reverse single crochet so there is absolutely no seaming.

Tunisian Crochet Christmas Tree Pillow

About this Tunisian Crochet Pillow

If you have done a little bit of Tunisian crochet, then this pillow pattern will be no problem at all for you.

Once you can work the Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss) and Tunisian Purl Stitch (Tps), the only new technique you’ll need to learn is how to change colors mid-row in Tunisian crochet.



No-seam crochet envelope pillow

This pillow cover is crocheted in 3 panels. But instead of seaming them at the end, you will join them with a round of reverse single crochet (or crab stitch!). So there is absolutely no seaming required for this pattern!

I decided to add 3 buttons to the back of the pillow, just to ensure it stayed closed. But this step really is optional. The pattern includes a full photo tutorial on how to crochet a buttonhole with Tunisian crochet.

What you’ll need to crochet this Christmas tree pillow

Any #4/medium/worsted weight yarn will work perfectly for this pattern. I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran in 3 colors (Caramel, Vanilla Cream and Champagne), and I would say that this yarn is a little on the thicker side for a #4 yarn.

With Tunisian crochet, you need to go up about 2 hooks sizes (you can read more about the basics of Tunisian crochet and why you need a larger hook here.) For my pillow I used a 7mm Tunisian crochet hook with a cord. However, if your yarn is a thinner #4 yarn, a 6.5mm hook would work perfectly.

And as the pillow panels will be blocked and then joined together, you don’t need to worry too much about your work curling (which tends to happen with Tunisian crochet anyway).

Changing color in Tunisian crochet

For this pattern, you will need to learn how to change colors mid-row, as well as on the Return Pass (for the middle section of the tree).

The color gradient in the “Tree” section of this pillow is achieved using just 2 colors:

  1. First you crochet the base of the tree with C1.
  2. For the middle section, you will work the Forward Pass and Return Pass with alternating strands of C1 and C2.
  3. Finally, you will work the top of the tree with C2.

The PDF version of this pattern has a full colorwork chart for the Christmas tree. But the written instructions below will give you exactly the same result; it just depends on what your preferred pattern style is!


More Crochet Patterns for Christmas & Gifting


Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

This pattern assumes that you are familiar with the basics of Tunisian crochet, in particular the Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss) and Tunisian Purl Stitch (Tps).

If you are brand new to Tunisian Crochet, please see these photo and video tutorials to help you get started with Tunisian Crochet.

Skill Level

Construction

  • This pillow cover is crocheted in 3 sections:
  1. Front panel with colorwork
  2. Bottom back panel
  3. Top back panel
  • The 3 panels are joined using the reverse single crochet stitch (or crab stitch).

Colorwork Notes

  • This pattern uses the “intarsia” technique for colorwork.
  • For each block of color, you will use a separate yarn bobbin.
  • You will change color as required on the FwP, and then complete the RetP with the corresponding color. Please see How to change colors in Tunisian crochet for a detailed tutorial.
  • For the colorwork rows in the middle section, FwP is worked with one color, and RetP is worked with a second color to create the gradient effect.

For these rows, the FwP and RetP instructions are written separately as follows:

FwP: (MC) Tss 10, (CC1) Tss 25 etc.

RetP: (MC) RetP until 1 MC loop on hook, (CC2) RetP until 1 CC2 loop on hook, (MC) RetP to end.

  • Unless instructed to introduce a new bobbin, float the new color up from the previous row at each color change.

Chart & Written Instructions

  • There is a colorwork chart available in the ad-free PDF verison of this pattern (which you can purchase through Ravelry or Etsy)
  • If using the written instructions, for each block of color in a row, the instruction is written as follows:

(COLOR)          stitch   COUNT

e.g.   (MC)                Tss       10

General Pattern Notes

  • Row instructions are given for the Forward Pass (FwP).
  • First Tss of each row is made in the second vertical bar.
  • Follow the foundation row and each FwP with a Return Pass (RetP).
  • Stitch counts are given as “loops on hook” in [ ] at the end of each row, and refer to the number of loops on your hook at the end of the FwP. Each row in a panel has the same stitch count.
  • End stitch: This is the last stitch on a Forward Pass (FwP). You will always work this stitch through both loops. In this pattern, the end stitch is written separately as “work end st.”
  • Bind off: The bind off method for this pattern is the slip stitch bind off, and is worked as follows: starting in the second vertical bar, *insert hook into vertical bar, yo and pull through both loops on hook; repeat from * across until 1 loop remains. Cut yarn, pull through final loop to fasten off.

Finished Measurements

Width: approx. 15.5″ / 39.5cm

Length: approx. 15.5″ / 39.5cm


Gauge

12 stitches x 10 rows = 4” x 4” / 10cm x 10cm measured over Tss.

Note: Gauge measurement was taken after blocking. It is not critical to match gauge for this project, as the pillow cover will stretch to fit over the insert.


Materials

Hook

7mm Tunisian crochet hook + 11”/28cm cable (to make 20”/50cm total length). If your yarn is on the lighter side, a 6.5mm/K10.5 hook would also work fine.

Yarn

Any #4/Medium/Worsted yarn.

The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran (184m/201yds per 100g skein; Weight 4/Aran; 100% Acrylic).

  • MC: Light Caramel – 388 yds / 355m (193g) – 2 skeins
  • CC1: Vanilla Cream – 30 yds / 27m (15g) – 1 skein
  • CC2: Champagne White – 24 yds / 22m (12g) – 1 skein

Misc:

  • 16” x 16” / 40cm x 40cm pillow insert
  • Button x 3 (approx. 1-1.5” / 2.5-3.5 cm)
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers (minimum of 6)

Special Stitch

Reverse SC (a.k.a. Crab Stitch)

This stitch is simply a single crochet worked from left-to-right instead of right-to-left.

Step 1: Ch 1, tilt your hook towards you and insert it into the next stitch to the right.

Step 2: Yarn under, pull up a loop (your two loops on the hook will be twisted).

Step 3: Yarn over, pull through both loops as for a regular sc.

Step 4: Continue working from left-to-right; insert hook into next stitch to the right, yarn under, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the sc.

If working the reverse single crochet as a border, work to your starting ch-1, sl st to join to starting ch-1.

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Written Pattern

Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch = chain

yo = yarn over

st = stitch

Tss = Tunisian Simple Stitch

Tps = Tunisian Purl Stitch

rsc = reverse single crochet

MC = Main Color

CC1 = Contrast Color 1

CC2 = Contrast Color 2

FwP = Forward Pass

RetP = Return Pass

FRONT

Row 1: With MC, ch 47. Pull up a loop in back bump of second ch from hook and in each ch across. RetP. [47 loops on hook]

Row 2: Tss 45, work end st. RetP.     

Row 3: Repeat Row 2.

Row 4: (MC) Tss 19, (CC1) Tss 7, (MC) Tss 19, work end st. RetP.    

Rows 5-6: Repeat Row 4.

Row 7: (MC) Tss 7, (CC1 – new bobbin) Tss 31, (MC) Tss 7, work end st. RetP.

Row 8: (MC) Tss 8, (CC1) Tss 29, (MC) Tss 8, work end st. RetP.

Row 9: (MC) Tss 9, (CC1) Tss 27, (MC) Tss 9, work end st. RetP.

Row 10: (MC) Tss 10, (CC1) Tss 25, (MC) Tss 10, work end st. RetP.

Row 11: (MC) Tss 11, (CC1) Tss 23, (MC) Tss 11, work end st. RetP.

Row 12: (MC) Tss 12, (CC1) Tss 21, (MC) Tss 12, work end st. RetP.

Row 13: (MC) Tss 13, (CC1) Tss 19, (MC) Tss 13, work end st. RetP.

Row 14: (MC) Tss 14, (CC1) Tss 17, (MC) Tss 14, work end st. RetP.

Row 15: (MC) Tss 15, (CC1) Tss 15, (MC) Tss 15, work end st. RetP.

Row 16: (MC) Tss 16, (CC1) Tss 13, (MC) Tss 16, work end st. RetP.

Row 17:

FwP: (MC) Tss 10, (CC1 – new bobbin) Tss 25, (MC) Tss 10, work end st.

RetP: (MC) RetP until 1 MC loop on hook, (CC2 – new bobbin) RetP until 1 CC2 loop on hook, (MC) RetP to end.

Row 18:

FwP: (MC) Tss 11, (CC2) Tss 23, (MC) Tss 11, work end st.

RetP: (MC) RetP until 1 MC loop on hook, (CC1) RetP until 1 CC1 loop on hook, (MC) RetP to end.

Row 19:

FwP: (MC) Tss 12, (CC1) Tss 21, (MC) Tss 12, work end st. RetP with CC2.

RetP: (MC) RetP until 1 MC loop on hook, (CC2) RetP until 1 CC2 loop on hook, (MC) RetP to end.

Row 20: (MC) Tss 13, (CC2) Tss 19, (MC) Tss 13, work end st. RetP with CC1. RetP as per Row 18.

Row 21: (MC) Tss 14, (CC1) Tss 17, (MC) Tss 14, work end st. RetP with CC2. RetP as per Row 19.

Row 22: (MC) Tss 15, (CC2) Tss 15, (MC) Tss 15, work end st. RetP with CC1. RetP as per Row 18.

Row 23: (MC) Tss 16, (CC1) Tss 13, (MC) Tss 16, work end st. RetP with CC2. RetP as per Row 19.

Row 24: (MC) Tss 17, (CC2) Tss 11, (MC) Tss 17, work end st. RetP with CC1. RetP as per Row 18.

Row 25: (MC) Tss 18, (CC1) Tss 9, (MC) Tss 18, work end st. RetP with CC2. RetP as per Row 19.

Row 26: (MC) Tss 19, (CC2) Tss 7, (MC) Tss 19, work end st. RetP with CC1. RetP as per Row 18.

Row 27: (MC) Tss 13, (CC2 – new bobbin) Tss 19, (MC) Tss 13, work end st. RetP.

Row 28: (MC) Tss 14, (CC2) Tss 17, (MC) Tss 14, work end st. RetP.

Row 29: (MC) Tss 15, (CC2) Tss 15, (MC) Tss 15, work end st. RetP.

Row 30: (MC) Tss 16, (CC2) Tss 13, (MC) Tss 16, work end st. RetP.

Row 31: (MC) Tss 17, (CC2) Tss 11, (MC) Tss 17, work end st. RetP.

Row 32: (MC) Tss 18, (CC2) Tss 9, (MC) Tss 18, work end st. RetP.

Row 33: (MC) Tss 19, (CC2) Tss 7, (MC) Tss 19, work end st. RetP.

Row 34: (MC) Tss 20, (CC2) Tss 5, (MC) Tss 20, work end st. RetP.

Row 35: (MC) Tss 21, (CC2) Tss 3, (MC) Tss 21, work end st. RetP.

Row 36: (MC) Tss 22, (CC2) Tss 1, (MC) Tss 22, work end st. RetP.

Row 37: With MC, Tss 45, work end st. RetP.

Rows 38 – 39: Repeat Row 37.

Work bind-off row. Cut yarn and fasten off.

BOTTOM BACK PANEL

Row 1: With MC, ch 47. Pull up a loop in back bump of second ch from hook and in each ch across. RetP. [47 loops on hook]

Row 2: Tss 45, work end st. RetP.     

Rows 3 – 30: Repeat Row 2.   

Work bind-off row. Cut yarn and fasten off.

TOP BACK PANEL

Row 1: With MC, ch 47. Pull up a loop in back bump of second ch from hook and in each ch across. RetP. [47 loops on hook]

Row 2: Tps 45, work end st. RetP.     

You will create the button holes over the next 2 rows.

Counting from the first vertical bar, place a stitch marker in the 12th, 24th and 36th bars. The button holes will be positioned at these markers.

Note: Please see Tunisian Crochet Buttonhole Tutorial at the end of this pattern for a photo tutorial on how to work the next 2 rows.

Row 3:

FwP: [Tps 11 (incl. marked st), insert hook into next vertical bar, yarn over and pull through two loops (button hole space made)] 3 times, Tps 9, work end st. [44 loops on hook]

RetP: Work RetP as normal to first button hole space, ch 1, [work RetP to next button hole space, ch 1] twice, work RetP to end.

Row 4: Tps 10, pull up a loop in back bump of ch-1, [Tps 11, pull up a loop in back bump of ch-1] twice, Tps 10, work end st. RetP. [47 loops on hook]

Row 5: Tss 45, work end st. RetP.

Rows 6 – 22: Repeat Row 5.

Work bind-off row. Cut yarn and fasten off.


Finishing

Blocking

Block each panel to flatten them out a little.

Panels after blocking

Join panels

  1. With RS facing, line up FRONT panel with BACK panels. The two BACK panels will overlap in the middle. Use stitch markers to join the corner stitches and the middle sections.
  1. With the front of the pillow cover facing you, begin joining the panels at the bottom right-hand corner. Insert hook through the edge stitch of the FRONT panel and the corresponding edge stitch of the BOTTOM BACK panel. Yarn over MC and pull through, ch 1.
  1. Working from left-to-right, rsc along the bottom edge of pillow working each stitch through both panels.
  1. Once you reach the overlapping sections at the middle of the pillow, work each stitch through the edges of the 3 panels – FRONT, BOTTOM BACK and TOP BACK.
  1. Continue to rsc around the pillow edge until all panels are joined. Sl st to join to first rsc.
  2. Cut yarn and fasten off. Pull any ends through to inside of pillow, and weave them in.

Buttons

At the back of the pillow, attach 3 buttons to the BOTTOM BACK PANEL, just beneath each button hole.

Insert pillow form and tie buttons.

All done!


Tunisian Crochet Buttonhole Tutorial

  1. Work 2 rows & mark button hole spaces

Ch 47, work foundation row, and one Tps row as normal.

Counting from the first vertical bar, place a stitch marker in the 12th, 24th and 36th bars. The button holes will be positioned at these markers.

  1. Work button hole row

Create three spaces on the Forward Pass.

Create first space as follows:

[Tps 11 (incl. marked st), insert hook into next vertical bar as normal, yarn over and pull through two loops (button hole space made)]

Repeat [ ] twice more, Tps 9, work end st.

On the Return Pass, you will work a “ch 1” at each button hole space – this replaces the dropped loop on the Forward Pass.

Work RetP as normal to first button hole space, ch 1, work next RetP stitch as normal i.e. yarn over and pull through 2 loops.

[Work RetP to next button hole space, ch 1] twice, work RetP to end.

  1. Work row to close up button holes

Tps 10 i.e. until you reach the ch-1. Pull up a loop in back bump of ch-1.

[Tps 11, pull up a loop in back bump of ch-1] twice, Tps 10, work end st. [47 loops on hook]

Work RetP as normal. All done!

If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free, pdf version of this pattern through Ravelry or Etsy, or if you haven't already signed up for my newsletter you can subscribe here and I will send you a promo code for a FREE PDF of ANY ONE of my patterns!

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah

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