Tunisian Mosaic Crochet Square: Free Pattern

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This simple pattern is the perfect introduction to Tunisian mosaic crochet! The pattern repeat is easy and intuitive, and there are minimal ends to weave in which is always a plus in my book.

Tunisian mosaic crochet might look intricate but it is actually deceptively simple. You will change color on each row, but unlike overlay mosaic crochet, there is no need to cut yarn at the end of each row. 

crochet washcloths coordinating patterns

With Tunisian mosaic, because a Tunisian row has two parts (the forward pass and return pass), you can change colors on each row by simply floating your new color up the side of your work for each color-change. 

For the pattern below, you will find written instructions for each row, or you might choose to follow the mosaic chart, depending on your preferences. I have included stitch and row counts for both a dishcloth and a tea towel, but you can use this mosaic pattern to create any size that you like.

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How to Read a Tunisian Mosaic Crochet Chart

For me, Tunisian mosaic charts are really intuitive and easy to follow. You will read the chart from right to left for each row. 

Each row of the chart represents one row in Tunisian crochet (both the forward and return passes). Each square on the chart represents one stitch; the stitch you will work depends on a number of factors:

  • If the color of the square is the same as the starting square, and the square directly below is a different color, then work a Tunisian simple stitch (Tss).
  • If the square is different to the starting square, work a Tss.
  • If the square is the same as the starting square, and the square below is the same color, then work an extended stitch (in this pattern I use a Front Post Tunisian double crochet, but there are other extended stitches that can be used too).
folded tunisian mosaic crochet dishcloth

There might seem like a lot of rules but I promise once you get started it will all come together! The pattern below includes more detailed tips and tricks for mastering Tunisian mosaic crochet.

What You’ll Need to Make this Tunisian Crochet Pattern

Yarn

For my dishcloth, I used Drops Paris yarn in two colors – Light Turquoise and White. I definitely recommend picking contrasting colors to make the colorwork stand out. The pattern below includes links to a variety of cotton yarns that are perfect for dishcloths.

tunisian mosaic crochet dishcloth laid flat

Hook

You will need a 6.5mm K/10.5 crochet hook for this pattern (or whichever hook size allows you to crochet with an even tension). Tunisian crochet fabric tends to be a little more dense and stiff than regular crochet, which is why we always go up 1-2mm from the recommended hook size for a particular yarn.


TUNISIAN STAIRCASE WASHCLOTH

Crochet Pattern

PDF preview of the tunisian mosaic crochet dishcloth pattern

Pattern Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Skill Level

Crochet project level easy

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch = chain
  • C1 = Color 1
  • C2 = Color 2
  • FPTdc = Front Post Tunisian double crochet (see Special Stitches)
  • FwP = Forward Pass
  • rem = remanining
  • RetP = Return Pass (see Special Stitches)
  • sc = single crochet
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • Tss = Tunisian simple stitch (see Special Stitches)
  • yo = yarn over

General Pattern Notes

  • Row instructions are given for the Forward Pass (FwP).
  • Complete the Foundation Row and each FwP with a Return Pass (RetP).
  • Stitch count is given as “loops on hook” in brackets [ ] at the end of Row 1 (Foundation Row). In this pattern the stitch count is the same for all rows.

Tunisian Mosaic Chart Instructions

  • Each row of the chart represents one row in Tunisian crochet (both the FwP and RetP).
  • Each square on the chart represents one stitch.
  • Read the chart from right to left for each row.
  • The first square of each row represents the color to be used for that row.
  • Work 1 Tss for each square that does not have an “X”.
  • Work 1 FPTdc for each square that does have an “X”.
  • The first two rows of the chart are “setup” rows and are worked in Tss only.

Color Changes

  • Change color at the end of the RetP as follows:
    1. With working yarn, work RetP until 2 loops remain i.e. stop at the last step of the RetP.
    2. Yarn over new color and pull through 2 loops i.e. complete the RetP.
    3. Work FwP of next row with new color.
  • Both the FwP and RetP are worked in the same color. 
  • Float the new color up the side of your work at each color change.

Materials

Yarn

Any #4/Worsted/Medium weight yarn in a cotton or cotton blend. The amounts given here are for Drops Paris in Light Turquoise (2) and White (16) (82 yds/75m per 50g skein; #4/Worsted/Medium; 100% Cotton).

ProjectTotal Yds/mC1 (Light Turquoise)C2 (White)
Washcloth93yds / 85m57yds / 52m36yds / 33m
Tea Towel410yds / 375m250yds / 229m160yds / 146m

Alternative yarn options:

Hook

6.5mm (K-10.5) crochet hook

Other Items

  • Yarn needle

Finished Measurements

Washcloth: 8.5″ x 8.25″ / 21.5cm x 21cm

Tea Towel: 14.25″ x 23″ / 36cm x 58.5cm

Note: you can also add an optional single crochet border around the edge of your project which will add approx 0.5” / 1.25cm to the width and length.

Please see Adjustments section below for information on making this project in a different size.


Gauge

14 sts x 13 rows = 4″ x 4″ / 10 cm x 10 cm measured over Tss.

Note: Gauge is not critical for this project. However, if your gauge does not match the one listed above then your project may turn out a little larger/smaller depending on how loosely/tightly you crochet, and you may use a different amount of yarn than what is listed above.


Special Stitches

Tunisian simple stitch (Tss)

Insert hook under next vertical bar, yo and pull up a loop

Front Post Tunisian double crochet (FPTdc)

In this pattern, the FPTdc is worked in the next stitch 2 rows below.

  1. Yarn over, insert hook through both vertical bars of indicated stitch.
  2. Yarn over and pull up a loop.
  3. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops i.e. the loop already on your hook and the loop created by the first “yarn over.”

Return Pass (RetP)

Yo and pull through first loop on hook, i.e. ch 1. *yo and pull through first two loops on hook, repeat from * until one loop remains.

End stitch

This is the last stitch on a Forward Pass (FwP). You will always work this stitch through both loops. In this pattern, the end stitch is written separately as “work end st.”

Bind off

The bind off method for this pattern is the slip stitch bind off, and is worked as follows: starting in the second vertical bar, *insert hook under vertical bar, yo and pull through both loops on hook; repeat from * across until 1 loop remains. Cut yarn, pull through final loop to fasten off.


Adjustments

Stitch multiple: 4 + 2

  • To adjust the width of your project, simply chain any multiple of 4 + 2 to start.
  • To adjust the length, simply repeat Rows 2-9 until you reach your desired length. End on any odd-numbered row i.e. Rows 3, 5, 7 or 9.

Note: adjusting the size of your project will impact the amount of yarn required.


Tunisian Mosaic Chart

Tunisian mosaic chart
Screenshot

Written Pattern

Washcloth: With C1, ch 30.

Tea Towel: With C1, ch 50.

Row 1: Pull up a loop in back bump of second ch from hook and in each ch across. RetP, changing to C2 on last 2 loops. [Washcloth: 30 loops on hook; Tea Towel: 50 loops on hook]

Row 2: With C2, Tss across, work end st. RetP, changing back to C1 on last 2 loops.

Row 3: *Tss 3, FPTdc in next st 2 rows below; repeat from * across, work end st. RetP, changing to C2 on last 2 loops.

Row 4: With C2, Tss across, work end st. RetP, changing back to C1 on last 2 loops.

Row 5: Tss 2, FPTdc in next st 2 rows below, *Tss 3, FPTdc in next st 2 rows below; repeat from * until 1 st rem, Tss 1, work end st. RetP, changing back to C2 on last 2 loops.

Row 6: With C2, Tss across, work end st. RetP, changing back to C1 on last 2 loops.

Row 7: Tss 1, FPTdc in next st 2 rows below, *Tss 3, FPTdc in next st 2 rows below; repeat from * until 2 st rem, Tss 2, work end st. RetP, changing back to C2 on last 2 loops.

Row 8: With C2, Tss across, work end st. RetP, changing back to C1 on last 2 loops.

Row 9: FPTdc in next st 2 rows below, *Tss 3, FPTdc in next st 2 rows below; repeat from * until 3 sts rem, Tss 3, work end st. RetP, changing back to C2 on last 2 loops.

Washcloth: Repeat Rows 2-9 for a total of 27 rows, or until work measures approx. 8.25″/ 21cm in length. Bind off.

Tea Towel: Repeat Rows 2-9 for a total of 75 rows, or until work measures approx. 23″/ 58.5cm in length. Bind off.

Note: End on any odd-numbered row i.e. Row 3, 5, 7 or 9.

BORDER
Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc evenly around the edge of your work, working 3 scs to turn each corner. Join to beg sc with a sl st or invisible join.

Fasten off.

Weave in remaining ends. All done!


If you wish, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free PDF version of this pattern through Ravelry or Etsy.

I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don't hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished project on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah

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