Ombre Crochet Coasters (with fruit plate)
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Ombre Coasters | Free Crochet Pattern

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These stylish crochet coasters are a great way to use up left-over yarn! You can use any combination of colors to create a really unique and colorful set; your scrap bag is your oyster!

Ombre Crochet Coasters (stacked)
Can you spot the seam!?

This pattern uses the thermal single crochet stitch. This stitch is a simple variation on the basic single crochet. The unique thing about the thermal sc is that it gives you a double layer of single crochet stitches, by working one row almost on the back of another.

The result is a super thick, durable fabric that can be applied to so many projects – think hot pads, oven mitts, even the base of a basket or purse if you want something really strong and thick. Or of course, coasters!

I used this stitch for my Double Oven Mitt Pattern, to ensure that the hot pad sections were extra strong and durable.



The coasters are worked holding 2 strands of yarn together to create a striking ombre effect.

Ombre Crochet Coasters (flatlay)

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Yarn

For this crochet oven mitt I used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK. This super durable yarn is available in 51 different shades so there’s a pretty good chance you’ll find something you like 🙂 Any #3/DK or #4/worsted weight yarn would work great; if you use worsted you’ll end up with a larger coaster of course!

Ombre Crochet Coasters (with fruit plate & glass of water)

Finished Measurements

4.5” x 4.5” / 11cm x 11cm


Gauge

12 sts x 22 rows (or 11 visible rows*) = 4” x 4” / 10cm x 10cm measured over thermal single crochet stitch

*each visible row on one side of the coaster is actually made up of 2 rows of thermal sc sts – for this pattern you may find it easier to count the visible rows rather than the actual rows.

Note: Matching gauge is not essential for this pattern. However, you do need to ensure that the 3 color blocks are the same height, and that total height = total width. Instructions on calculating the correct number of rows for each color block are included below.


Materials

Hook: 7mm/K-10.5 to 9mm/M-13 (or hook that allows you to work easily with your chosen yarn – see Notes)

Yarn: #3 / DK / Lightweight Yarn (worked 2 strands together)

The amounts given here are for Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK

(137 yds (125m) per 50g skein; #3/Lightweight; 100% Cotton)

One coaster: 48m / 52yds (19g) in total (24m / 26 yds of each color)

Hook: 5.5mm/I-9


Notes

Please read through the entire pattern before beginning.

Construction

The coaster is worked holding 2 strands of yarn together. At each color change, you will only change out one of the strands – this gives the ombre/gradient effect.

The pattern includes instructions on how to:

  • ensure that your coaster ends up as a square
  • ensure that your 3 blocks of color are the same height

Yarn Substitution

You can also work this pattern with #4 / Medium / Worsted weight yarn; you’ll just end up with a larger coaster.

Additional Notes

  • Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.
  • Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each row.
  • When counting rows you may find it easier to count visible rows on each side. But it is still important to keep track of the actual number of rows worked too, to ensure that each color block is the same height.

Special Stitch

Thermal Single Crochet Stitch (thermal sc)

This stitch is a variation on the single crochet (sc) stitch.

Learn how to work the thermal single crochet stitch (instructions and a photo tutorial) here.


Set up Instructions

Calculate target rows for each “color block”

1. After working 5 or 6 rows using C1, measure the width of your work. Based on my gauge, this was 4.5” / 11.5 cm.

2. Divide this width by 3 – this your target height for each color block i.e. 4.5” / 3 = 1.5”

Note: if you don’t get a width that is easily divisible by 3, don’t worry, just round to the nearest easily divisible number.

3. Stop crocheting using C1 once you reach your target height, and make note of the number of rows you have worked. This is your target row count. For me, this was 8 rows.

4. You will need to work the same number of rows for each of the remaining color blocks.


Written Pattern (US Terms)

ch = chain              thermal sc = thermal single crochet

st = stitch               C1 = Color 1

sc = single crochet    C2 = Color 2

N.B. Please make sure you have read the instructions above on calculating the target number of rows for each color block.

COLOR BLOCK 1              

ROW 1: Holding 2 strands of C1 together, ch 15, sc in bottom bump of second ch from hook, and in each ch across, turn. [14]

ROW 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a st, here and throughout), thermal sc in each st and parallel loop of foundation ch across, turn. [14]

ROW 3: Ch 1, thermal sc in each st across, turn. [14]et

Repeat ROW 3 until you reach your target row count for each color block. (Please see Appendix for instructions on calculating your target row count. For my gauge, this was 8 rows per color)

COLOR BLOCK 2  

Change to C2 on one strand only.

Holding one strand of C1 and one strand of C2, repeat ROW 3 until you reach your target row count.

COLOR BLOCK 3  

Change remaining C1 strand to C2.

Holding two strands of C2, repeat ROW 3 until one row remains before your target row count.

FINAL ROW: Ch 1, thermal sc through both loops and parallel loop of previous row in each st across.

Cut yarn and fasten off.


Finishing

Weave in ends. All done!


I hope you have enjoyed this pattern, if you have questions at all, please don’t hesitate to contact me. And be sure to tag your finished headband on Instagram or Facebook using @nedandmimi or #nedandmimi, I love to all your makes 🙂

And just in case you haven’t already signed up for my newsletter you can subscribe here and I will send you a promo code for a FREE PDF of ANY ONE of my patterns!

Happy crocheting!

Sarah



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